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John W. Swift, 

Chief Yeoman, U. S. Navy. 



An Iowa Boy 

Around the World 

in the Navy. 



A TRUE STORY OF OUR NAVY 
By J NO. W. SWIFT, 

BLOOMFIELD, IOWA. 



1898-1902 



MCMI I 

THE KENYON PRINTING & MFG. CO. 

DES MOINES 



["THE LIBRARY Of 
CONGRESS, 
.». Oiip*es ReciavEO 

JUN. 2B 1902 



Dedicated to 

" Miauntie." 






Copyright Applied For 1902. 



PREFACE. 

FT IS, perhaps, a man's duty to write of such experiences as are 
related in this book, for the benefit of young men, who, 
knowing not what they want, want everything. 

Those who may feel skeptical as to the truth of these writ- 
ings are respectfully referred to the following newspaper article 
and letters: 

The Davis County Republican, Bloomfield, Iowa, Thursday, January 16, 1902. 

Happy Reunion at Ottumwa— John W. Swift, a Davis County Boy, 
Returns After Service in the Navy. 

AS ANNOUNCED in these columns last week John W. Swift has re- 
turned home after three years' service in the United States navy. 
He was interviewed in Ottumwa by a Courier reporter after which 
the following appeared in Saturday's paper: 

A happy family reunion took place in Ottumwa last night when J. D. Swift 
and family, a stock farmer whose home is near Bloomfield, met and ex- 
changed greetings, for the first time in four years, with his son, John W. 
Swift, late chief yeoman on the United States cruiser Brooklyn and con- 
fidential stenographer to Admiral George C. Remey, commander of the 
Asiatic squadron. The son was married at Whitney's Point, N. Y., last 
week to Miss Edythe M. Allen, of that place, and they spent yesterday in 
Ottumwa, meeting his relatives in this city last evening. They are now at 
the Swift homestead in Davis county and will make their future home in or 
near Bloomfield. 

Mr. Swift left Bloomfield about four years ago and joined the First 
Ohio Volunteer cavalry. This regiment did not get nearer to the seat of 
war than the camps in the southern states and this did not satisfy the Davis 
county volunteer; who had enlisted because he wanted to see service. 
After being discharged from the cavalry, Mr. Swift enlisted in the navy as a 
landsman, the lowest rating in the service. He requested to be sent to the 
Philippines and the request was granted. 

The trip to the far east was made via the Suez canal route, and when 
Mr. Swift arrived in Asiatic waters he was assigned to the Bennington as 
captain's writer. About this time President Schurman of Cornell University, 
chairman of the peace commission, made a visit to the Philippines for the 
purpose of investigating conditions there. The Bennington was detailed to 
take President Schurman on his tour of the islands, and on this trip Mr. 



Swift visited all the important Philippine ports and obtained a splendid in- 
sight into the affairs of the Filipinos. 

During his service on the Bennington, Yeoman Swift was afforded some 
exciting experiences during engagements with the Filipinos. The Ben- 
nington was regularly used as a cruiser, with instructions to watch for 
contraband of war. Daily it hailed and stopped Filipino boats, some of 
which showed fight and some refused to stop. These were sunk. The Ben- 
nington also took part in the bombardment of San Jose on the island of 
Negros, and near Albay, on the island of Luzon, the cruiser conducted an- 
other successful bombardment in which a number of Filipinos were given 
a good understanding of the ability of the Americans to shoot accurately. 

Just before the siege of Peking, Yeoman Swift, who had meanwhile been 
promotedin turn to the positions of third, second and first class yeoman, 
was made chief yeoman and transferred to the Brooklyn, Admiral Remey's 
flagship. He was on the ship off Taku, China, the naval base during 
these exciting times, from July 8 to October n, 1900. Here messages from 
Minister Conger and others who were in the besieged capital city at the 
time were received, having been carried through the native lines by faith- 
ful Chinese who managed to make their way without being killed. 

Six or seven copies of each message were entrusted to as many faithful 
Chinese and these heroic men would make a dash through the lines for the 
coast. One or two of each group would get through while their comrades 
would be killed in the attempt. The messages were received on board the 
vessels of the allied powers in the bay of Taku, the ones from the Ameri- 
cans going to the Brooklyn, where it was Yeoman Swift's duty to transcribe 
them into cipher and make them ready for the cable operators at Chefu, where 
the China end of the trans-Pacific cable was located. This was the work 
which was done by the Davis county man during the months at Taku, in 
addition to other official and confidential work for Admiral Remey. 

Mr. Swift wrote the order which sent the Vicksburg on her voyage in 
the Philippines to support Gen. Funston when that famous Kansan captured 
Aguinaldo, and the admiral's chief yeoman handled much other official 
business of importance and national moment. So satisfactory was his work 
that on leaving the service in November, 1901, at the expiration of his term 
of enlistment, Mr. Swift was given two letters, one from the chief in the 
clerical department, and one from Admiral Remey himself, commending 
the yeoman for his excellent, painstaking, faithful work. These documents 
are naturally valued very highly by Mr. Swift. 

While on board the Brooklyn, Mr. Swift made the voyage to Mel- 
bourne, Australia, when the first Australian parliament was opened. Here 
the Brooklyn was the center of attraction, and it was estimated that during 
her stay in the Australian harbor she was visited by thousands of people 
who desired to inspect the ship which had helped to bring about Admiral 
Cervera's defeat in Santiago harbor. 

Mr. Swift announces that he has quit the navy for good and all. He 
will go into business somewhere in Davis county and spend the rest of his 
life in the United States. He expects soon to write a book regarding his 
experiences and his views of the country's navy, something of which has 
been given in the preceding. 



Office of the COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF 



UNITED STATES NAVAL FORCE ON ASIATIC STATION 
FLAGSHIP BROOKLYN. 



Yokohama, Japan, Nov. 15, 1901. 

Jno. W. Swift, Chief Yeoman U. S. Navy, has served in this office 
under my immediate supervision and direction, for sixteen months, and 
leaves now only because his term of enlistment is about to expire. 

As a stenographer and typewriter he has fully proved himself to be 
capable, careful, industrious and willing. The work in this office has re- 
quired long hours, with little regard to Sundays and holidays, and the con- 
ditions of climate and shipboard life have been at times very trying. I have 
good reason to recommend Swift for zeal, interest and faithfulness in his 
work; and would be glad to have his services again. 

(Signed) R. R. Belknap, 

Lieutenant, U. S. Navy, 

Aide to Commander-in-Chief. 



Office of the COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF 



UNITED STATES NAVAL FORCE ON ASIATIC STATION 
FLAGSHIP BROOKLYN 



Yokohama, Japan, Nov. 15, 1901. 

J. W. Swift, Chief Yeoman, U. S. Navy, has served as a stenographer 
and typewriter in my office for nearly eighteen months. I have no per- 
sonal knowledge of the details of conducting the work of my office, but my 
aide in charge of it has repeatedly spoken in approving terms of the yeo- 
men; and the papers prepared by them as they came before me testify to 
their competency. The work has been voluminous for the small force to 
handle it, and has had to be done with dispatch often under trying con- 
ditions. I consider myself fortunate to have had such capable men in my 
office as Swift has shown himself to be. 

As he leaves the station now, going to the United States for discharge, 
upon the expiration soon of his enlistment, I wish him success in his future 
occupation. 

(Sgd.) Geo. C. Remey, 
Rear Admiral, U. S. Navy, 
Commander-in-Chief. 



. CHAPTEK I. 

GREAT BROADWAY, NEW YORK MEN WANTED TO GO TO WAR 

CHUM WANTED TO EIGHT ENLISTED ILL IN HOS- 
PITAL PROMOTED TWELVE THOUSAND MILES 

VOYAGE VIA SUEZ CANAL ROUTE TO THE 
ORIENT. 

IN THE EVENING of December 1, 1898, the bitter cold 
northern wind whistled down great Broadway, hacking 
the faces of rich and poor alike as they flitted about the 
corners of the great buildings, intent, as New Yorkers always 
are, each on his own particular mission, but all familiarly akin 
in that mad turmoil of business. 

The streets of the city were filled to overflowing with the 
multitude of jostling, tired and hurrying people; natives of 
every country on earth intermingled in one great seething mass 
of humanity, moving constantly onward in two streams — from 
the city to suburban homes, and from suburban factories down 
town to lodgings. There were men, women and children from 
every walk of life, scurrying onward, their faces set in all the 
varieties of expression peculiar to mankind. In sympathy with 
this endless double stream of humanity completing the scene 
of great Broadway, came the thundering rattle of traffic inter- 
mingled with the roaring commands to "move on" of those 
greatest of earth's peacekeepers and life savers, the Broadway 
police. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 



How sad it is to tread great Broadway and read the separate 
story of each pedestrian in his or her face as we pass ; to note 
the great majority of unhappiness. I was studying these peo- 
ple, and, as we often do, comparing the history seen in their 
faces with my own ; and, as I thus witnessed the panoramic view 
of lives, it slowly dawned upon me that my lot was a fair one ; 
that, after all, it was tolerably happy, almost without my know- 
ing it. 

Chum inquired the reason of my protracted silence, remark- 
ing that life in ISTew York made him dull, and wished that we 
might hit upon some plan for excitement. I reminded him 
that, as long as we had health and good positions, we should be 
satisfied with well enough, and censured him for his discontent. 

As we turned off Twenty-second street in the direction of our 
lodgings we noticed a large placard reading, "Men Wanted to 
Fight." We stopped and read all about it. Uncle Sam wanted 
men in his navy to go to the Philippines and "lick" the natives. 
Chum immediately wanted to fight. I laughed at him, remind- 
ing him of our unsatisfactory experience during the war with 
Spain, fighting mosquitos in Chickamauga, Florida and Ala- 
bama camps, merely to earn the appellation of "tin soldier,' 1 
but he would not listen; said he was looking for just such 
excitement, and if I would not go with him he would go alone, 
and I might go to the dickens. I told him I had no great desire 
to go to the dickens, wherever that might be, but thought pos- 
sibly that was better than the Philippine Islands. 

Now, Chum was a good fellow, but he had one very, very, 
bad habit — he wanted to "run things." This was all right in 




Enlisted." 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 11 

itself, and interesting, but for one fact — I had the same habit. 
Consequently his determination to fight the "wily Filipino'' 
led to a heated discussion that evening when we reached home, 
with the usual result — I got the worst of it and had to give ia 
a little, because he could talk louder. In brief, we decided that: 
he should enlist in the navy and I should go my own way ; but 
withal we continued friendly. 

Promptly at nine o'clock the next morning we were at the 
recruiting office .at the New York Navy Yard, on the old United 
States receiving ship Vermont. I can see now, in fancy, ithe 
entrance of two dudish looking young fellows on that old vessel 
which has taken so many boys from home, and can, now that I 
understand the customs of men of our navy, imagine with what 
amusement we were looked upon by these jolly boys of the sea. 
To an old sailor it is one of the funniest sights possible to wit- 
ness the awkward embarrassment of a "rookie." They appear 
to be unaware that anyone from the outside world is about to 
enter their realm, their faces remain calm and apparently 
disinterested, but all the while they are watching with the deep- 
est cunning for "green remarks" or "blunders" of this "rook," 
so that they may attach a nickname that will be characteristic 
.and follow him to the end of his service. They are very friend- 
ly, however, and when once the "rook" gets into uniform, will 
assist him in every possible manner with regard to lashing his 
hammock, packing his clothes in the queer canvas bag used in 
the navy, and other duties necessary in the education of a 
man-of-war's-man. 



12 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

After standing in line for about two hours, waiting our turn 
in the recruiting office, we were finally admitted. The recruit- 
ing officer looked, us over and remarked that there were "too 
darn many kids running .away from good homes to see the 
world, and for us to get hack to dad as fast as our legs could 
carry us." He said they did not generally enlist boys who wore 
good clothes and looked under age except with their parents' 
consent. 

It was with no little trouble that we finally managed to make 
this gentleman understand that Chum really wanted to fight, 
and had the right to enlist in Uncle Sam's navy. However, it 
was finally settled, and, as he stooped over to sign his name 
for three years' service, pausing with uplifted pen, with all the 
honest affection of a thorough chum, he said : "S.ay, John, you 
are not going back on me now, are you ? After all we've been 
through together for years ?" 

I hesitated, and thereby was lost. I, too, signed my name 
for three years' service, and we went below to the doctor for 
physical examination, each with the grandest feeling of proven 
affection that man can understand. 

When a mere man so far forgets others as to imagine he is 
vastly superior because he wears good clothes, it would be a 
kindness like unto the love of God to send him to a recruiting 
doctor's office. There he will learn just how much of a man 
he really is ; stripped to the skin, standing in a row of sturdy 
figures, all his fine raiment gone, the overwhelming fact ap- 
pears that the poor, ragged, dirty, unkept, miserable tramp, 
that he felt the deepest heartache for a few moments ago, is, 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 13 

in fact, a man beside whom his own poor, miserable, ill-shaped, 
shivering figure can make no possible comparison. 

Though the latter description is most accurate of my per- 
sonal physique, the doctor passed me into the navy, but of all 
the ridiculous pranks of circumstances here appeared the 
worst, Chum was found to have defective teeth and debarred 
from enlistment. 

We said a few things that would look ill in print ; the doc- 
tor said other things that would look worse in print; and, 
finally, between the doctor's desire to impress upon us the 
dignity of his office and our desire to have Chum enlisted, a 
few words were spoken that could not be printed at all. But, 
after much persuasion, he was finally admitted, defects being 
waived. 

After nearly a day's attendance on various officials, Ave were 
finally able to walk on deck with a fine outfit of sailor "togs," 
and forty-five dollars in debt for them, with salaries of sixteen 
dollars per month with which to settle the account. 

The next morning we were promenading the gun-deck, try- 
ing to imitate the old sailor walk and manner, so that we might 
not be considered "rookies" or green men, as the term "rookie" 
is the most galling title a "Jackie" can have. A't night amid 
strange surroundings, in a hammock swung between two beams, 
had given us ample opportunity to realize the magnitude of the 
step we had taken. To feel that you have given up all inde- 
pendence of action or speech is to look with the deepest regret 
upon the days of freedom, and to yearn with all the power 



14 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

of daily increasing eagerness for the return of such independ- 
ence. 

Sailors in the navy are kept from the terrible state of in- 
sanity by constant employment of body and mind, regardless 
of the necessity or importance of the work performed, so that 
it was nothing extraordinary when a big brute of ,a Dutchman 
seized me by the .arm, roared out a terrible oath, and asked 
"who the devil" I was; then before I could frame a reply to 
such an .astounding approach, gave me a push and ordered me 
in no gentle manner to "take them 'spit-kits' out and clean 
them." Choking back wrath desperately, I contemplated first 
the "spit-kit," as he called it, and then the "spitter," and, 
though it was half a keg and six inches deep in tobacco mixed 
with other ingredients too numerous to mention, I concluded 
that of the two the "kit" was preferable, and accordingly 
stooped over to lift it, when some one sang out my name. I 
answered at once, of course, and was told to "lay below" to the 
"captain's office." I promptly left bolth tlhe "kit" and the 
"spitter," and "layed." 

Stepping over the threshold, I at once recognized instinc- 
tively the .atmosphere of culture and refinement. Having read 
of the education and refinement of Annapolis graduates, and 
of the brutal coarseness of common sailors, I jumped to the 
conclusion that the captain's clerk must be an officer. How- 
ever, we must all learn by experience, .and it was not till many 
months later that I thoroughly learned that gentlemen are 
born, not made. Mr. Doyle had been just a common sailor for 
many years, and was then holding .a warrant position of mate 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 15 

in the navy, and had never seen Annapolis officially. With 
what patience, kindness, and encouragement that good man led 
me into the knowledge of the duties it w,as my lot to perform 
during the next three years! Carefully, gently, firmly, he 
guided the "rookie" until very soon that appellation of unhappi- 
ness ceased to be connected with me. 

Dear old Chum was sent in two days to the cruiser Chicago 
for duty as berth-deck cook, while I remained temporarily 
in the office of the captain until, at Ithq end of a month, the 
doctor pronounced me contagious with erysipelas of the face 
and ordered me to be transferred to the Brooklyn Navy Hos- 
pital. Among a great number of men disease runs rampant, 
and my case was nothing out of the general rule. 

With all baggage I was at once ambulanced to the pest- 
house, ,as the contagious ward is called, where I made the sixth 
patient. In accordance with the run of my luck during that 
period of life, the nurse, who had been detailed to take care of 
us, became quite ill, and it was necessary for me to volunteer 
to nurse myself and all the others. All clothing was sent to the 
fumigating room except what we wore, making it necessary 
to either wear soiled clothing or wash it and remain in bed 
until it was again ready to wear, as "Johnie Jones" is said 
to have made shift while his "Ma" mended his one pair of 
trousers. Two cases of measles, two of scarlet fever, the nurse 
with la grippe, a case of my own ailment and myself, made the 
position I occupied one of no little danger and responsibility. 

To aggravate one's mental torment, under the situation, the 
dead house was just outside the window, where its ghastly occu- 



16 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

pants could be seen ; the naval cemetery near by held daily recep- 
tions, and military death salutes reverberated with painful reg- 
ularity through the air; and last, coffins were stored in the 
garret, their carriage to and fro making one of the daily 
encouraging sights for the sick — encouraging, but not to re- 
covery. 

It was necessary, however, to get well if one wished to 
leave, therefore my recovery was quite rapid, and four weeks 
later found me back on the Vermont under orders to proceed in 
the United States steamer Solace, to Manila, to join Dewey's 
fleet, where I had requested to be detailed. 

In 'the evening prior to my departure, Gaum came over from 
the Chicago to bid me good-bye, and the conversation between 
us will always remain clear to my mind. Through many trying 
situations that carried us, sometimes very near death's door, 
this capital fellow had proven himself true and it was with 
deepest sorrow and regret that we each bade farewell to a com- 
rade dearer than men usually become, and could we have known 
at that time what later events have brought forth, our sorrow 
would have been ten-fold; for we have never met again, and 
his trials and adventures if related in detail would be heart- 
rending. A noble man persecuted, it sometimes seems, by 
circumstances. 

In the afternoon of February 1, 1899, the United States 
steamer Solace, laden with supplies of provisions, ammunition 
and a draJt of 180 petty officers and seamen, steamed out of 
New York harbor on her long voyage to Uncle Sam's new pos- 
sessions, the Philippine Islands. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 17 

Deep down in my heart, beyond the point of forgetfulness, 
lies the memory of that parting from my native land. Vividly 
as though it were but yesterday, the scene with .all attendant 
partings and affections recurs to make me live again, in fancy, 
this sad leave taking. 

Imagine a boy among strangers, in dress and surroundings 
unfamiliar, leaving home, friends, country, to take part in war, 
an unknown and an untried condition, with no kind relatives 
or friends to bid him a last farewell and wish him Godspeed, 
and you can guess, perhaps, my feelings on that eventful day. 
There is no certainty of returning from such ,a mission, and as 
I gazed upward at the great Brooklyn Bridge arched high over 
our heads on passing out of the anchorage, and looked, per- 
haps, for the last time upon the panoramic view presented be- 
fore me, hot, rushing tears that would not be kept back came 
to relieve me. There were very few dry eyes on the ship. 

One felt instinctively that some of his friends and relatives, 
perhaps the dearest ones of all, would not be there when he 
returned if he, through God's providence, should be spared. 
I will add that such has been the case, some are gone. 

Joining the boys on deck I enjoyed some very pleasant scen- 
ery, and before long forgot pain for the time being in look- 
ing at the great forts, whose awe inspiring guns peeped down 
upon us from both sides of the harbor. Steaming down oppo- 
site Thompkinsville, the Solace dropped anchor for the night 
and to see that everything was in perfect order before trusting 
herself to the great treacherous Atlantic. 



18 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

There was considerable fun going on that evening. All hands 
started in to make themselves comfortable for a forty day voy- 
age, and not being acquainted with the rules of the ship many 
laughable occurrences took place. For instance, one young 
man approached the officer-of-the-deck and requested to be 
informed of the number and location of his room. 

The look of disgust that came to that old sea officer was 
something comical. Calling his messenger, he ordered him to 
show the young man down to hook number two-thirty-four on 
the berth deck. The young man thanked him very graciously 
but asked the messenger as they went below, why the officer-of- 
the-deck had looked so queer when he asked him for a room. 
But when the messenger pointed out to him hook number two- 
thirty-four, and finally made him understand that his room 
consisted of two hooks on cross beams, a hammock and eighteen 
inches space in which to swing it, among a hundred other men, 
he understood. At least I think he did, by his language, and I 
believe he was actually homesick and wished for his trundle 
bed. 

However, one soon becomes accustomed to the privation of 
ship board life and long before our voyage was ended we were 
thoroughly comforltable as to sleeping accommodations. Food 
was another question. We were ill-fed, and it occurred in this 
manner : The draft of about one hundred and eighty men was 
composed largely of rookies who had never been to sea. They 
did not know that to live well it is necessary to lay in sea 
stores, and with the navy ration then in use the cooks should 
be experienced. Unless handled by experienced cooks, the 



c 

DO 

o 




AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 21 

navy ration then used would not make a man uncomfortably fat. 
Of course, the naval officials having had experience should 
look out for new men in such cases, but to the best of my 
knowledge, during that voyage, the paymaster simply served 
out the regular allowance and let the men look out for them- 
selves. I can testify even now that I was hungry for the next 
forty-four days, until arrival at Manila where, on being trans- 
ferred to regular cruising ships, we fared better. On the 
Solace fights occurred nearly every day, .at meals, among men, 
and I credit their ill-humor principally to their lack of good 
wholesome food and plenty of it. 

The next morning came clear, bright and majestic, with 
a sea smooth as glass. After the cold weather and disagree- 
able thoughts of the previous day, you may well believe that 
it was with much better spirits that we weighed anchor and 
started for the broad Atlantic. 

To our rear the Goddess of Liberty, standing with upraised 
hand, seemed to bid us a pleasant voyage and safe return. 
Looking to the left I espied the Chicago World's Fair wonder, 
the "Ferris Wheel," standing high over Coney Island, and it 
recalled to my mind the greatness of the country I was leav- 
ing which was so well exhibited during that exposition. Then 
came the entrance to the harbor with strong fortifications on 
either side, standing silently by in all their greatness, whilst 
the representatives of all friendly nations pass through. On 
that morning we found the Atlantic as calm as the bay had 
been, and it remained so for several days. 



22 AROUKD THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

It was the Navy Department's orders for the Solace to 
stand along the coast to Hampton Roads, where she arrived 
the next day. This place is quite pretty as seen from the sea. 
The greatest object of interest to me was the magnificent 
hotels on the beach. They are so arranged as to accommo- 
date several thousand people, and are built in sections, which 
can be taken down and removed, it is said, without injury, in 
three hours, disclosing in their rear a long row of disappearing 
rapid fire guns. Just opposite the hotels across the bay on an 
island stands the old Fort Monroe, partly in ruins. 

The most inspiring thought to me at that time wasi that 
I was on the exact spot where that great fight of the Civil 
War took place between the Monitor and the Merrimac. 

Here the vessel was coaled, all hands assisting in that 
operation, and when I found myself passing baskets of coal in 
the hold of the ship, it was with a feeling of considerable 
disgust and a faint regret that I had undertaken the service. 

Before leaving ISFew York I was promoted from the lowest 
position, Ithat of landsman, in which rating I enlisted, to 
yeoman, third class, a clerical position, and a third class 
petty officer. At Hampton Roads I was informed that third 
class petty officers must coal ship, but that those above that 
class were exempt, so I made up my mind at once that third 
class could not hold me long. There were eight of us promoted 
at the same time, all rookies. Of this number two of us, 
during the next three years, reached the position of chief 
yeoman, one yeoman second class, two died, two deserted, and 
the eighth was court-martialed and disrated. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 23 

This is a fair per cent of good luck in the navy, T believe. 
There were no vacancies on the Solace for so many clerks, as 
she carried a regular ship's company, so we were not required 
to perform any duty after the first co.aling at Hampton Roads 
until the completion of our voyage. 

After a two days' stay in Hampton Roads, the Solace headed 
directly across the Atlantic for Gibraltar. Though quite 
chilly, the weather continued fair until the seventh day out, 
when a high wind arose which whipped, tossed, and tumbled, 
the mighty waves in a fashion that seem to try severely tjb.e 
powers of the Solace. She creaked and groaned while the tre- 
mendous waves pounded and slushed against her sides, 
or rolling at her stern lifted it entirely out of the 
water, sometimes lifting the great ship bodily on) the crest of 
a wave, permitting her to slide down into the hollow of -tthe 
sea bow on, until the decks were washed from bow to stern. 

Many were ill, pots .and kettles becoming loosened from 
their racks, clashed and clattered about the decks; hatches 
were baittened down, and tables could not be set because of 
the terrible rolling and pitching. Several ridiculous mishaps 
occurred to give mirth to the occasion. One fellow succeeded, 
by holding on to the bag rail, in reaching the mess chest where 
his cook gave him a plate of "salt-horse," beans, a pickle and 
a tine up of coffee. With both hands full he attempted to 
cross the deck, during a lull in the motion of the ship^ but 
a sudden lurch landed him fifteen feet away in the scupper, 
with the food and coffee on top of him. I took my plate and 
coffee and sat down on the deck at once, iholding it safely 



24 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

between my knees, when an unusually heavy roll simply slid 
me, victuals and all, nearly .across the deck. Then as she 
rolled back the other way, I returned to my original position 
safe and sound, not even spilling a drop of coffee. 

To aggravate those suffering from sea sickness, it is an 
old, custom of sailors to tie a piece of fat pork on the end of 
a string and go about the decks proffering the use of it to 
various victims of the sea. The idea intended to suggest, I 
believe, is that it would be ,a pleasant pastime to have the 
meat pulled up and down one's (throat. 

A sailor of my acquaintance was very sea sick on this 
voyage, and in recounting his experience later remarked that 
at first he was afraid] he was going to die, but later he was 
afraid he would not. 

Several sharks followed us day by day, and a number of 
whales were seen spouting. Sea gulls from New York fol- 
lowed us three days out but finally reached the limit of their 
daring and returned. There is a specie of small gull that 
live in mid-ocean, which were constantly with us. I think 
they followed us the entire distance to Gibraltar. 

After thirteen days without sight of land, the lookout in 
the "crow's nest" cried "land ho," and just as the golden 
sun was sinking below the horizon, we spied the great rock of 
Gibraltar. This is the greatest fortification in the world, 
is owned by the British and is the key to the European situa- 
tion. Simply a gigantic rock pigeonholed with gun-ports from 
which protrude dozens of great gums that might defy the 
entire world with safety. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 25 

The Solace did not stop at Gibraltar, and it was my mis- 
fortune that she passed by that world-renown place at night. 
Though with all the lights it made a pretty picture, I should 
rather have seen it in daylight. 

When morning came we looked upon the most magnificent 
body of water in all the world, the blue Mediterranean. Per- 
fectly calm, like .a great sheet of glass, the water lay dead as 
far as the eye could reach. Though in the month of February, 
the sun was shining warm and pleasantly upon the hills of 
Spain to our left, making the old wind mills, castles, cities 
and forests glisten and sparkle like precious gems, prov- 
ing that beautiful country's right to the title of "Sunny 
Spain." 

A couple of day's steaming brought us to Malta, off the 
coast of Italy, .a beautiful little island lying rather low but 
sufficiently rolling to be picturesque. Valetta, the principal 
city, lies among cliffs on the northern side of the island and 
is owned by the English, who have heavily fortified it and 
make it a naval rendezvous. It is a very ancient looking city ; 
houses all of stone, jammed in together, with streets from 
three feet to three yards in width. The natives are like Ital- 
ians, but generally form the coolie class. It is a city bustling 
with commerce and a great fleet of ships of all nationalities 
and descriptions line the harbor. It is a place of beautiful 
canoes. All travel about the harbor in row-boats, and each 
individual endeavors to own a more elaborate one than his 
neighbor. Beggars were plentiful; cripples holding up a 
maimed limb, blind pointing to their disgustingly pitiful coun- 



26 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

tenances, bum-boats, with fruit, merchandise and curios to 
sell, swarmed about the vessel in great numbers. Small native 
boys came ofT in boats in bathing dress, who, upon the tossing 
of a coin into the water would dive and catch it almost every 
time. Some of them passed entirely under the ship. 

In Malta we found the weather quite warm and pleasant, 
and the naval uniform of the day was shifted from blue to 
white. 

The land slopes from the beach to the center of the island, 
so when two or three miles at sea one can see the farms, vine- 
yards, castles and all the country for many miles about as 
appears upon a picture or map. The old windmills turning 
upon the hilltops remind one of biblical scenes. 

The condition of ordinary individuals in Malta shows the 
depths to which humanity may fall ; in fact most foreign coun- 
tries are spoiled by the same conditions — dense population 
and ravages of sin. An ordinary laboring man in America is 
rich when compared with these people. 

From Malta to Port Said, Egypt, is only five or six days 
sail. Port Said is Egyptian all through ; in describing it one 
would only repeat such descriptive matter as our Sunday 
school leaves have given. We see the primitive boats, ancient 
dress, almost the same as that worn by the Savior, and general 
mysterious ways for which Egyptians are noted. They seem 
in the question of manners and customs, not to have changed 
since the days of Christ. 

(Stopping at Port Said for a day we had some opportunity 
of observing them. Of particular interest to me was their 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 27 

place and manner of worship. Quite near the vessel on the 
beach just outside the stone wall which surrounds the town, 
was a fountain and near it a flat stone standing upright about 
two feet wide and six feet in height, with another similar 
stone lying on the ground in front of it. While I watched, a 
number of natives came through the gate of the surrounding 
city wall, took off their shoes, bathed their hands and feet in 
the fountain, and then, stepping on the stone lying upon the 
ground, would "salam" (place their hands above their heads in 
the position of a diver and bend over several times) after 
which they would kneel, and placing their hands on the ground 
would repeat a long prayer, kissing the stone every ten or fif- 
teen seconds. Some stayed but a few moments, others, who 
seemed to have a great crime for which to be forgiven, stayed 
even as long as half an hour, and one or two longer. I imagine 
they must have been very bad. 

Only part of a day was necessary to secure our turn in 
passing through the Suez canal. Leaving in the afternoon, 
the Solace proceeded slowly (four miles per hour) down the 
canal. This is one of the greatest representations of the prog- 
ress of man to my mind. For ninety-four miles they have dug 
through the sand of the desert a channel three hundred feet 
wide and about twenty-five feet deep, so that a large vessel 
may steam through in safety, and at several places it is 
broadened so that vessels may pass. The passage for the Solace 
cost about five thousand dollars. As she had,' no searchlight 
available, it was necessary for her to tie up at night. On, 
both sides as far as the eye can reach there is nothing to be 



28 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

seen but sand, so fine that it constantly drifts like snow. I 
can readily understand the stories of caravans buried in the 
sand during those dreadful storms. It is a case of constant 
fighting with dredges to keep the sand from filling the canal. 
About every five miles the entire length of the Suez canal 
is a station, and surely they are veritable Edens; cocoanuts, 
bananas, figs, oranges, etc., growing in abundance over a 
space of about five acres. How they manage to obtain this 
luxuriant vegetation I do not know, for with these exceptions 
I saw no other verdure along the canal. Several camel trains 
were seen moving snakelike in the distance toward the 
great Sahara desert. Also, an occasional Turk, fierce, wild and 
hungry looking, presumably of the class which are renowned 
for their terrible treatment of overpowered caravans. 

Following along like an old comrade on the banks of the 
Suez is .a little narrow gauge railway, several tiny trains 
passing us during the passage. 

The Solace made successfully the canal passage through 
the Bitter Lakes and into the Red Sea at the city of Suez. 

The country about the sea looks much the same as along 
the canal, except that high barren mountains of solid rock and 
sand skirt its shores. One sees many rocks and hills that 
are pyramidal in shape, but I have no explanation to offer. 
In passing through this sea of biblical fame, I could not help 
but feel a certain amount of awe and interest, but there was 
little to see except rocks and sand aside from two or three 
cities in the dim distance. 






i#MkM«C3K 




»'~4' *»• re- 




view on Flagship Brooklyn, Manila, iqoi. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 31 

After the Red Sea came the Indian Ocean with nothing of 
particular interest until arrival at Colombo, Ceylon, off the 
coast of India. This is the garden spot of all, owned by 
the English. Its products are precious stones, spices, tea, 
coffee, tropical fruit, chocolate, cocoa, fine woods, mahogany, 
etc. It is the country-seat of Mr. Lipton, the great tea man 
and yacht racer. Most popular of all men there was the 
great writer Rudyard Kipling. The native papers were full 
of his affairs. This seemed to be the greatest place for "fakirs" 
of all ; sharp, quick, subtle, but if to their interest .as dull and 
ignorant in appearance as the occasion demanded. 

The Solace took on nine hundred tons of coal here in about 
six hours. An interesting feature at Colombo is the pearl div- 
ing. We saw divers two or three miles out in the bay in small 
boats, diving for the beauties of the deep. A native told me 
he could stay under water two minutes withou|t a diving 
apparatus. I saw them dive completely under the Solace. 
A great many fine rugs, gems and fine wood-work may be 
bought here. 

After coaling the Solace proceeded on her voyage through 
the straits of Malacca, sighted Singapore, but we saw noth- 
ing of particular interest until March twenty-second, forty- 
four days out from Hampton Roads, when w r e steamed into 
the Bay of Manila and, .anchoring alongside the Flagship 
Olympia, fired a salute to the flag of Admiral George Dewey. 



CHAPTER II. 

MANILA BATTLE OF MANILA BAY WAR DAILY ROUTINE OF A 

WAR SHIP DEWEY IN MANILA BAY SURROUNDED BY 

THE CHARRED, SUNKEN WRECKS OF THE 
SHIPS OF THE NATION^ FOE. 



A 



ITER. THE long sea voyage, with all its attendant dis- 
comforts and monotony, it w.as with a feeling of consider- 
able relief and pleasure that we looked upon the magnifi- 
cent scenery about Manila Bay. Steaming through the en- 
trance, past Corregidor, where the luxuriant vegetation cov- 
ering the mountain sides sent oil the sweetest perfume of 
flowers and made one almost believe he was dreaming of Para- 
dise, the Solade headed straight for Manila, the city of so 
much interest to Americans at that time, which lay low upon 
the water at the foot of the mountain range skirting the bay. 

To the right across the bay lies the city of Cavite, the 
early home of Aguinaldo, where the old Spanish naval ren- 
dezvous was situated, and where the United States Navy now 
makes its headquarters. 

The Olympia, flagship of Admiral Dewey, w,as anchored 
just outside the breakwater off Manila. England, Germany, 
Holland and Japan were represented by men-of-war, and sev- 
eral of Admiral Dewey's famous fleet were grouped about their 
chief. Merchantmen from all parts of the world were an- 
chored bv themselves to the left of the man-of-war anchorage. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 33 

The great tropical sun stood high in the heavens, bringing 
out vividly the coloring of the Philippine metropolis. The 
first points to attract one's notice were the great dome of 
the Manila observatory, famous throughout the world for the 
work of the old Catholic priest in charge, the old walled city on 
the right bank of the Pasig river, with its great palace, church 
towers and other large public buildings. To the right of the 
walled city, or Old Manila, stretches far to the southward a 
line of low waving palms, which line the famous beach drive 
Santa Lucia, which broadens further on into the Luneta, where 
during Spanish reign, the people were accustomed to congre- 
gate in the mornings to witness the execution of Filipinos, and 
later, in the twilight, to hear the band play and vie with each 
o'tiher in the style and magnificence of their dress and equi- 
page. Beautiful Spanish and Filipino belles are to be seen 
there, tastefully decked in cool, white, gauzy, low necked gowns, 
bare headed and elaborately coiffured. Later, when T visited 
the Luneta, fine bands from the army furnished entertainment 
for thousands of people. Many Americans, principally 
army and navy officers, mingled with the throng. 

To the left of the Pasig river lies the new city of Manila, 
called Binondo, which city is more popular among the Ameri- 
cans than the old walled city. It is cleaner, more modern, has 
a purer atmosphere, and many pretty little parks and drives 
for recreation. While the walled city is our governmental 
headquarters in Manila, the new city is of most commercial 
importance, the principal street, the Escolta, being overbur- 
dened with traffic and business. The business has lately be- 



34 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

come so heavy in this street that wagons, drays and other 
freight vehicles are prohibited from its use. Saloons were also 
made to move back on less important thoroughfares, to make 
room for more worthy houses of business. 

One of the first things to attract my attention was the great 
need of improvement in the harbor everything appearing to have 
been long on the decline; but recently, I understand, $5,000,- 
000 has been appropriated for this work, which has already 
been undertaken. 

It is well, perhaps, to give here a brief outline of the circum- 
stances attendant upon the occupation of Manila Bay by the 
Americans, and a short description of the Battle of Manila Bay. 
Believing it would seem more realistic, I have availed myself 
of copies of the Bounding Billow, a newspaper printed on 
board the Olympia, flagship of Admiral Dewey, the following 
article being written by a participant in the battle: 

"The United States fleet, consisting of the Olympia, Boston, 
Raleigh, Baltimore, Concord, Petrel, McCulloch (dispatch 
boat), and the transports Nans'han and Zafiro (merchant steam- 
ers carrying coal for the fleet) left Mirs Kay, China, April 27, 
1898, for Manila, Philippine Islands, to engage the Spanish 
fleet stationed there. 

"The ships made a very warlike and imposing picture as they 
steamed out of the harbor in three columns, with all colors fly- 
ing, bent on their dire and fateful errand. 

"A looker on would have thought that the ships were merely 
going on a pleasure trip, judging by the happy and careless 
demeanor of the crews; but unless they have experienced it, 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 35 

they would never guess the strain that the uncertainty of 
whether we v-ere really going to war or not, had put on the 
nerves of these men who had almost nothing to divert their 
minds. Once the suspense was relieved, however, and & definite 
move made, there was a complete change and they went about 
their different tasks as blithesome and gay as if it were extend- 
ed leave instead of grim war. 

"The second day out the following intellectual abortion was 
posted on the bulletin board. For arrogance and conceit it 
certainly caps the climax; as a sample of ignorance and idiocy 
it is unsurpassable : 

" 'Proclamation issued by the Governor General of the Phil- 
ippines : 

" 'SPANIARDS : 

" 'Between Spain and the United States of North America 
hostilities have broken out. 

" 'The moment has arrived to prove to the world that we 
possess the spirit to conquer those who, pretending to be loyal 
friends, take advantage of our misfortunes and abuse our hos- 
pitality, using means which civilized nations count unworthy 
and disreputable. 

" 'The North American people, constituted of all the social 
excrescences, have exhausted our patience and provoked war 
with their perfidious machinations, with their acts of treach- 
ery, and with their outrages .against the laws of nations and 
international treaties. 

" 'The struggle will be short and decisive. (It was.) The 
God of Victories will give us one as complete as the righteous- 



36 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

ness and justice of our cause demands. Spain, which counts 
upon the sympathies of all the nations, will emerge triumphant 
from this new test, humiliating and blasting the adventurers 
from those states that, without cohesion and without a history, 
offered to humanity infamous traditions and the spectacle of 
a congress in which appear united insolence and defamation, 
cowardice and cynicism. 

" 'A squadron manned by foreigners, possessing neither in- 
struction nor discipline, is preparing to come to this archipel- 
ago with the ruffianly intention of robbing us of all that means 
life, honor and liberty. Pretending to be inspired by a cour- 
age of which they are incapable, (tihe North American seamen 
undertake as an enterprise capable of realization the substitu- 
tion of Protestantism for the Catholic religion you profess, 
to treat you as tribes refractory to civilization, to take posses- 
sion of your riches as if they were unacquainted with the 
rights of property, and to kidnap those persons whom they 
consider useful to man their ships or to be exploited in agri- 
cultural or industrial labor. 

" 'Vain designs ! Ridiculous boastings ! 

" 'Your indomitable bravery will suffice to frustrate the at- 
tempt to carry them into realization. You will not consent 
that they shall profane the faith that you profess, that impious 
footsteps shall defile the temple of the true God, nor that un- 
belief shall destroy the holy images which you adore. The 
aggressors shall not profane the tombs of your fathers, they 
shall not gratify their lustful passions at the cost of your 
wives' and daughters' honor, nor appropriate the property 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 37 

which your industry has accumulated to assure your livelihood. 
'No, they shall not perpetrate any of those crimes inspired by 
their wickedness and covetousness, because your valor and 
patriotism will suffice to punish and abase the people that, 
claiming to be civilized and cultivated, have exterminated the 
natives of North America instead of bringing to them a life 
of civilization and progress. 

" 'Filipinos, prepare for the struggle, .and, united under the 
glorious flag of Spain, which is ever covered with laurels, let 
us fight with the conviction that victory will crown our efforts, 
and to the summons of our enemies let us oppose with the 
decision of the Christian and the Patriot the cry of "Viva Es- 
pana." Your General, 

" 'Basilio Atjgustiny Davjla.' 

"This unjust and cowardly manifesto aroused the anger and 
indignation of every man in the fleet, and many and deep were 
the growls and threats. The learned general would have fared 
badly had he been .at hand. The following speech was made by 
the editor (being the literary organ and representative), in 
answer to the foregoing proclamation: 

" 'shipmates : 

" 'You all, no doubt, have seen and read the rank and cow- 
ardly attack made by the Spanish governor at Manila, on the 
glorious flag .and country we serve. 

" 'In it he questions our bravery, our birthrights, the hon- 
esty of our government, and claims that we have no history! 
What do the acts of our forebears represent? What was the 



38 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

glorious fight they made for independence in the war of '76 ? 
When father .and son left their plows in the furrow and shoul- 
dered their muskets for liberty, while wives, mothers and 
sweethearts cheered them on to victory? What was the war 
of 1812 ? The Mexican war % Even our Indian wars ? His- 
tory all, and honorable, unstained history at that. 

" 'What does he mean by saying we are a cowardly nation ? 
'Old glory,' the dear old flag we serve and love, harbors no 
cowards. Wherever seen it is recognized as the emblem of 
freedom and honor, the standard of a nation of heroes, and 
though he may prate and proclaim from now until hades 
freezes over, he w T ill never make any but the most benighted 
or bigoted believe that he is even sane. 

" 'The sight of our flag is like a breath of pure, fresh air. 
Its very colors are significant ; the red is emblematic of the 
blood of heroes shed in the defense of our country; the white, 
the purity of our aims and objects; and the star spangled blue, 
the heaven we look to for guidance and strength. 

" 'Then the Spanish Solomon goes on to inform the brave 
'muchachos' under his sovereign command, that we are a 
gang of 'cut throats,' Protestant heretics, w T ho will convert 
them 'willy nilly' into a belief in our faith ; that we are ma- 
rauders and thieves; that we are the scourgings of the earth's 
gutters; social 'excrescences' (soft impeachment), and lastly, 
that we had veritably driven them on to war, manufacturing 
causes and insulting them because we knew, or rather thought, 
they were weak. 




Reina Christina Sunk by Admiral Dewey in Manila Bay. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 41 

" 'Shipmates, you all know what has brought on this war. 
The barbarous inhumanities practiced by them in the island 
of Cuba, right before our eyes; old men and women cruelly 
tortured and slain, babes murdered on their mothers' breasts, 
thousands of peaceful homes ruined and destroyed by these 
Spanish fiends, the dear old stars and stripes trampled in 
the mud of Spanish streets, and last, worst of .all, the tragedy 
that has been too lately enacted to be forgotten, the destruc- 
tion of the Maine. When brothers, friends and shipmates 
were foully murdered through Spanish treachery and hatred, 
an act that has won for Spain the aversion of all civilized na- 
tions. These acts have brought on the war. Acts the wildest 
savage would disdain, crimes that none but the lowest of Luci- 
fer's emissaries would commit. It is to avenge these wrongs, 
to give blessed liberty to an oppressed and down-trodden na- 
tion, and to uphold the honor of our country, that we are going 
to war with Spain. The governor says the Spanish flag is 
covered with laurels ; perhaps, but they are laurels of infamy ! 

' 'Fellow patriots, when the hour arrives we will one and all 

gladly lay down our lives for the dear old flag and beloved 

country that has never had one stain to blemish the purity of 

its escutcheon. 

" 'And now, shipmates, when we get to Manila and meet the 

Spanish murderers, let our battle cry be — 

" 'Remember the Maine, 
And down with Spain.' 

"About two o'clock Saturday morning land was sighted, and 
at daylight we were close on the coast of the enemy's country. 



42 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

"We kept about five or six miles from the coast line, keep- 
ing a bright lookout for men-of-war or other craft of the 
enemy. During the morning the Boston and Concord were sent 
ahead to reconnoiter Subig Bay, as it was rumored that there 
were two men-of-war there. Later we sighted a couple of fish- 
ing schooners. The transport Zaftro was sent to board one. 
They informed the boarding 'officer that there were only two 
gunboats in Manila harbor. We knew they were lying, but 
allowed them to proceed without further molestation. 

"In the afternoon the lighthouse on Cape Bolinao was 
sighted, and the Baltimore was sent ahead to reconnoiter. When 
the fleet reached Subig Bay, the Baltimore was close in shore, 
while the Boston and Concord were standing out toward us. 
They had seen nothing of the enemy. The fleet then formed 
in single column again and proceeded to Manila. 

"It was Commodore Dewey's intention to pass the large fort 
on Corregidor Island, twenty-six miles from Manila, about 
midnight, if possible, without being seen. It was a bold move 
and certainly deserved the success that crowned it, for there 
was great danger of mines and torpedoes being placed in the 
entrance, to say nothing of the guns in the forts. The harbor 
had, in fact, been considered impregnable, and no doubt it was, 
but not against Yankee grit and daring. At about midnight 
we were starting up Manila Bay at a speed of four knots. We 
were in hopes that the moon would go down, as her light was 
rather annoying to our hopes of entering undiscovered, but 
she seemed determined to stay out and see the fun. The guns 
were all manned and kept trained on the forts, while eyes and 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 43 

ears were strained watching and waiting for the shot that 
would indicate our discovery. Corregidor fort was on our left, 
while another battery somewhat further in was on our right 
hand. 

"On board the ships everything was quiet and nothing could 
be heard but the officers giving the range in whispers and the 
monotonous swash of the waters. The strain was terrible, and 
not one of the men that manned the fleet will ever forget the 
morning of the 'First of May.' 

"Suddenly a flash of light was seen on the fort on Corregi- 
dor. The men held their breath awaiting the report, but it 
was only a rocket. Soon another goes up, a light on shore 
flashes out signals, another on the other side, and we know we 
are seen. It was afterwards rumored that two torpedoes had 
been fired at us, but they did not have range enough to reach 
us. 

"At seventeen minutes past twelve the battery on our right 
opened fire, the shell passing between the Olympia and Balti- 
more. The Raleigh answered immediately. Another shot be- 
tween the Concord and Boston, which w.as answered by the lat- 
ter and the McCulloch. The McCulloch then turned back to 
look after the transports. The flagship signaled to the McCul- 
loch, "Are you all right ?" McCulloch answered, "O. K." It 
was too dark for the Boston and Raleigh to locate the batter- 
ies, so they ceased firing. None of the ships were struck. 

"About three-twenty word was passed to 'lay by your guns 
and take it easy.' Some of the men 'lay,' but 'taking it easy' 
was out of the question. The decks were sprinkled with sand, 



44 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

and it would get into eyes, ears and nose, and scratch the skin 
and occasionally some one would stroll over your recumbent 
form as leisurely as if on parade, for all lights were out and 
the decks were as dark as Erebus. At four o'clock coffee was 
served out, and the stillness was broken by the clashing of 
bowls and the merry laughter occasioned by collisions in the 
dark. 'Everybody was as happy as though on an excursion, 
jokes and witty stories were going the rounds, while every once 
in a while some pensive nightingale would strike up the affect- 
ing song 'Just Before the Battle, Mother,' until some one 
spilled a bowl of hot 'boot-leg' over him and quieted him for a 
few minutes. 

"The men were .all in 'war clothes,' which consisted of al- 
most nothing, and despite the joking and laughing, a deter- 
mined gleam in their eyes showed that they meant business and 
were there to 'do or die.' 

"We were standing in toward the city to reconnoiter. Sev- 
eral foreign sailing vessels were laying off Manila, but no men- 
of-war could be seen. At twelve minutes to five we broke 'old 
glory' at the mast heads and gaff and were saluted with a ten- 
inch shell from a battery on the south bastion of the city. This 
battery kept up a continual fire, but all shots fell short. We 
did not return their fire, but headed in for the navy yard at 
Cavite. 

"The Spanish fleet was sighted at seven minutes to five. They 
were lying in line from Sangley Point to Las Pinas across 
Cavite and Canacao Bays. Their right flank was protected 
by Cavite Peninsula, on which was mounted a very heavy bat- 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 45 

tery. The left flank reached to the shoal part of the bay near 
Las Pinas. 

"The Spanish vessels were further protected by ,a huge boom 
covered with chains, lighters filled with stone and water, cover- 
ing the water lines. The Reina Christina was standing off the 
left flank of the line, and had^ the Spanish Rear Admiral Mon- 
tojo y Pasaron on board. 

"At five thirty-five the ball was opened by the batteries on 
Sangley Point, and a shell fell near the Olympia. The Ameri- 
can fleet then advanced to the attack, flagship leading. Com- 
modore Dewey personally directed the movements of the squad- 
ron from the forward bridge. The captain directed the firing, 
while the captains in command of the other vessels handled 
their respective ships with a dexterity that was little short of 
marvelous. 

"At five thirty-eight the Reina Christina opened fire, fol- 
lowed by the rest of the Spanish fleet. At five fifty-five the 
American fleet began firing and a rapid fire was kept up by 
the entire fleet during the engagement. A torpedo boat came 
out about ten minutes past six and endeavored to place itself 
in the track of the Olympia, but was driven ashore by the rapid 
fire guns. Another boat came out and fired a torpedo, which 
passed across the bow of the McCulloch, but did no damage. 
Before the boat could escape it was struck by so many shots 
that nothing was left of it but smoke. There were several tor- 
pedo attacks mad,e on the other vessels, but luckily all were 
effectually repulsed or blown up. This was mainly due to the 
good marksmanship of the 'men-behind-the-guns.' 



46 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

"The American fleet steamed along the entire length of the 
Spanish line at distances varying from five thousand to fifteen 
hundred yards. 

"The order was given to fire on the arsenal in Cavite, and a 
well directed shot from an eight-inch gun sent it up in smoke. 
This was at six forty-five, and our fleet had just made the first 
round. We passed the line of ships ,and forts five times, three 
times from the eastward and twice from the westward. On the 
second round from the westward the Spanish admiral made a 
desperate effort to get outside the boom, hut received a concen- 
trated fire from the fleet. His ship caught fire and he trans- 
ferred to the Isla de Cuba, first hauling down the colors on the 
Beina Christina. The American ships then stopped firing at 
the latter and kept a continual storm of steel raining on the 
enemy's other ships and forts. 

"The Don Antonio de Ulloa .also made a desperate but futile 
attempt to get out. She went down with her colors flying at 
her peak until the Petrel lowered a boat and cut them away. 
The flag was presented to Commodore Dewey. In the mean- 
time the Spanish admiral returned to the Beina Christina, the 
Isla de Cuba being in a sinking condition. The Spaniards 
fought very courageously, many of them going down firing 
their guns until the last. Even amidst the horrors and cruel- 
ties of war, one cannot help remarking and admiring the valor 
of these heroes, Spaniards and enemies though they were. 

"It was on this ground that the Boston stood like a fort for 
ten minutes, firing as fast as she could load and aim, receiv- 
ing ,a concentrated fire of all the Spanish ships. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 47 

"The Olympia was twice hulled, but the shells did not pene- 
trate sufficiently to do much damage. Although shot and shell 
rained thick around her, she was struck but eight times, and, 
marvelous though it may be, not a man was injured. The other 
ships in the fleet thought the flagship was sinking, for all that 
could be seen of her was a cloud of smoke and jets of flame 
bursting through. 

"One shot struck the Baltimore in the starboard waist just 
abaft one of the six-inch guns. It passed through the ham- 
mock netting, exploding a couple of three pounder shells, 
wounding six men, then across the deck, striking the cylinder 
of a gun, making it temporarily useless, then running around 
the shield, it spent itself between two ventilators just forward 
of the engineroom hatch. The shell is in possession of the 
captain. The other vessels also, with the exception of the 
Concord and Petrel, were struck several times. 

"At about half past seven the Spanish fire slackened. The 
Reina Christina was on fire and sinking, the Costilla was sunk, 
and many others were afire and crippled. The fort on the mole 
at Pasig river had ceased firing. 

"At seven fifty-six we stood off shore for the middle of the 
bay, while tlhe batteries in the forts on Sangley Point, along 
the beach of Cavite and on the south bastion of [Manila, kept up 
a continuous but ineffective fire. 

"The crews had breakfast and a rest, which they certainly 
needed, though they were every one anxious to continue and 
'have it out.' 



48 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

"The batteries on Cavite fort kept up a continual fire, but 
the range was too long .and they did no further damage except 
to waste their ammunition. 

"A conference of commanders was held on board the flagship, 
and at ten fifteen the fleet stood in to silence the batteries. The 
Baltimore led, the Olympia followed close behind, while the 
Raleigh and Boston formed on the right flank. The Concord 
and Pdtrel diverged to the left and maneuvered to get behind 
the point on which the forts were situated. The two leading 
vessels steamed in bows on and when about fifteen hundred 
yards from the batteries opened fire with their large guns. As 
the Boston and Raleigh came up, the flagship drew back while 
the Baltimore remained stationary, delivering shot after shot 
with such telling effect that in twenty minutes she silenced the 
two most dangerous guns. 

"The Boston and Raleigh steamed along the point deliv- 
ering broadsides .as they went at the remaining fort on Sangley 
Point. In the meantime the brave lijttle battleslhips, Petrel and 
Concord, steamed in behind the point and attacked the forts 
from the rear, utterly demolishing the Spaniards. The Con- 
cord fired a few shots at the transport, Mindanao, which had 
been run on the shoals off Las Pinas, and after being assured 
that there was no life on board, set the vessel on fire. 

"At twenty minutes past twelve a white flag went up near 
Cavite and the bombardment ceased. The Petrel was sent up 
the Ciran river to destroy the gunboats that had retreated 
there. 




Who Wouldn't Sell Their Farm and go to Sea"? 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 51 

"The Boston and Concord remained off the navy yard while 
the rest of the fleet proceeded to the city to silence the forts 
there, that had been so persistent in making itself heard. Just 
as we got in range they ran up the 'white flag/ and when the 
sun set that night its last rays rested like a benediction on 'old 
glory' waving proudly from masthead and peak of Uncle Sam's 
doughty arbitrators. 

"Superior tactical knowledge and calm calculations, superior 
gunnery and coolness, together with Yankee daring won the 
day. 

"The next day the Petrel went into the bay and brought out 
a number of steam launches, two tugs and a couple of small 
boats, which were distributed among the fleet. 

"The surrender of all the vessels of war, forts and arsenals 
in the bay was demanded and given. The surrender of the 
city was delayed until the authorities at Washington were 
heard from. 

"Apothecaries, nurses and detachments of men were sent on 
shore to assist in caring for and transporting the wounded to 
the hospitals and burying the dead. 

"The effect of our deadly fusilade was simply frightful, the 
dead and wounded strewing the ground ,and buildings like 
leaves in autumn. 

"One of the wounded from the Reina Christina could speak 
very good English, having been in America some time, but on 
returning to his native land on a visit, had been impressed into 
the service. He had both legs shot away. He stated that near- 
ly all the vessels had double crews, many of them being volun- 



52 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

teers from among the citizens and that the number of deaths 
would never be known. He also said that no sooner had a gun 
been loaded than a storm of projectiles would sweep away the 
gun's crew. At the time the Spanish admiral tried to get his 
ship out he received such a terrible fire that the deck was one 
mass of bursting shell. The captain, he said, was killed almost 
at the first discharge." 

On the morning of our arrival on board the Solace in Ma- 
nila Bay, smoke appeared above the cocoanut palm forests and 
the continual crack and boom of musketry and artillery rever- 
berated across the bay, stirring one's breast with the deepest 
feelings of patriotism and excitement. For the first time in 
my life I heard the sounds of battle and felt its soul stirring 
enthusiasm. 

The brave "boys in brown" had driven the insurgents out 
of Manila .and were pushing them further and further into 
the province. 

The fighting even appeared on the beach later in the day, 
and we witnessed the sallies and maneuvers of both friend and 
foe. Our friends had driven them to the beach when a signal 
was made from the flagship Olympia, from Admiral Dewey, 
to the monitor Monadnock to co-operate. She immediately got 
under way, and steaming in near the beach, poured a continual 
stream of fire into the trenches of the Filipinos, driving them 
with considerable loss back into the arms of the boys in brown, 
who by the increased firing seemed to know well how to receive 
them. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 53 

You can imagine with what impatience we stayed out there 
on the ship .and watched all this ; old gunner's mates of the 
navy, who had seen service before, paced the deck and grumbled 
at their hard luck. 'But the jackies visited us from other ships 
and assured us that there should be no worry, as no doubt 
plenty of opportunity was before us. This proved true, and 
before many months, we had all seen enough of it. 

Late in the evening of the same day the Solace steamed 
across the bay to Cavite, where she anchored among the cruisers 
and supply ships of the navy. It is about seven miles across 
from Manila, and as we came in sight of the partly sunken 
charred hulls of the Spanish vessels of war, which opposed the 
entrance of Admiral Dewey's fleet on that memorable first day 
of May, 1898, one could almost imagine the scene as it must 
have appeared originally. The old fort of Cavite, with numer- 
ous gun-pouts covering the approach, and on Point Canicao, 
running out toward Manila a small battery appeared, which 
was said to have done considerable in the Spanish cause. 

Admiral Dewey had the business of the fleet well under con- 
trol and the regular cruising ships took their stations and per- 
formed the work of co-operating with the army with great pre- 
cision. There were in all about forty ships, including the cap- 
tured small Spanish gunboats. The naval force was divided 
into stations, in importance respectively of Cavite, Ilo Ilo, 
Cebu, Zamboanga, Jolo, Lingayen Gulf and Subig Bay. It 
was the custom to detail a large gunboat or cruiser as station 
ship at these places, while her commanding officer acted as a 
sub-commander, or senior officer present, carrying on the direc- 



54 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

tion of the smaller gunboats on his station and reporting to 
the commander-in-chief affairs of particular importance. When 
a vessel required coal, stores or repairs, she was ordered to 
Cavite and another detailed in her place. The principal duties 
of these vessels were cruising .against contraband of war, — 
guns, ammunition and stores intended for the insurgents — and 
shelling the beach when the army required such assistance. 
Frequently it was necessary to land companies of sailors, 
equipped for field service to assist the army. 

During the voyage of the Solace there were a number of in- 
frations of the navy discipline among sailors, whom the com- 
mander found necessary to recommend to Admiral Dewey on ar- 
rival, for general court-martial. As mentioned in previous chap- 
ter, there were eiglht extra men of us in the clerical branch. Ow- 
ing to the envious nature of certain influential parties on the ves- 
sel, who had taken a violent personal dislike to me, it had become 
tacitly understood that, of all the eight, I was the least capable 
in my rating. Consequently, when the judge advocate of the 
court, appointed to act for the Solace cases, asked for a man to 
do the stenographic work, all the others were interviewed in 
turn, each laughingly naming me as a more capable man, 
as they did not wish to undertake it themselves, and felt cer- 
tain I was incompetent. After passing down the line until 
only I was left, the judge advocate, a noted marine officer, 
finally ordered me before him to do the work, not deigning to 
inquire whether I was competent or not. 

Recognizing the emergency, I threw my whole heart and 
mind into requisition, and after six or seven days' and nights' 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 55 

laborious exertion, finished the last case satisfactorily. Though 
I felt my own incompetency, the judge advocate recommended 
me so highly to the commanding officer tthat the "pick" of eight 
vacancies was given to me, that of yeoman to the commanding 
officer of the Bennington. Two years later I wrote the papers 
that placed the individual who had so maligned me behind 
prison bars. I mention these facts not through love of self 
praise, but to show young men that "To keep a stiff upper lip 
and saw wood" means success in this world. 

All through my naval career I was often asked if I was the 
young man who wrote the court-martial records on the Solace, 
and it followed and assisted me to the end. 

In order that those who may not be familiar with the daily 
working of a man-of-war, may hereafter perfectly understand 
what is stated, I will give here a concise outline. 

In the cabin sits her captain who is her brain, her authority 
and her master. He must know her faults and virtues; he 
must know all that transpires above, on and beneath her decks. 
Outside his door continually paces to and fro his orderly (a 
marine — soldier at sea), whose duties are those of a combined 
messenger, sentry and guard. 

The captain only is permitted to communicate officially with 
higher authority direct, all others must do so through him. He 
must sign all papers relating in any w.ay to ship's business, 
which is facilitated by division into departments under the 
heads, viz., of Equipment, Navigation, Steam Engineering, 
Construction and Eepair, Ordnance, Supplies and Accounts, 
and Medicine and Surgery. 



56 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

Each of these bureaus are presided over by a commissioned 
officer, who, like the captain, is assisted by a retinue of clerks 
sufficient to carry on the clerical duties of his department. Ma- 
chinists, electricians, gunner's mates, firemen, coal passers, 
seamen and deck hands each belong to their several departments, 
and are held responsible by their chiefs. 

In each department the enlisted men best qualified are se- 
lected for the positions of (as they are termed) petty officers. 
So it appears that when a man is guilty of any infraction of 
the strict rules, he is called to account by the petty officer over 
him, that petty officer is reprimanded or reported by his chief 
petty officer, who in turn is called down by the officer of his 
division, who is "jumped into" by the executive officer (next to 
the captain), and he catches the "dickens" from the captain 
himself. 

Discipline is severe; superiors must be obeyed, and not 
"talked back to." Now, a deck hand or coal passer is inferior 
to almost everybody and must "look out for himself." If he 
don't like his superior, he usually finds it good policy to go 
away quietly alone, take a good look around to make sure uo 
one is listening, then, if the coast is clear, swear quietly and 
confidentially to himself. Instant obedience on board ship is 
a virtue and necessary for all ; even the Gaptain must obey his 
senior officer. 

The "mast" is intended to be the place for righting all affairs 
of dispute or blame; if a fellow is reported for a wrong, he 
stands at the "mast" at nine o'clock with the rest of them. The 
man who reported him is there. The captain comes out of his 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 57 

cabin and hears both sides of the case, and "makes it hot for 
you" according to the greatness of your sins. About the heav- 
iest punishment is meted out for disobedience. 

Every enlisted man, aside from chief petty officers and "spe- 
cial duty men," belongs to a watch and stands his "four hours 
on and four hours off" regular, day and night. Hfe must be on 
time, in uniform, clean, sober, respectful, diligent in his duty, 
not overstay his liberty ashore, not have dirty clothes in his 
locker^ not steal; well, I must not enumerate further, but he 
must, in all events, "look out for himself." 

The mornings are mostly taken up with routine work, clean- 
ing, etc., and the afternoons with drills, fire quarters, collision 
drill, abandon ship, general quarters (battle), boat drill, land- 
ing party and small arm drills. When the alarm sounds, there 
well be for ten seconds a great scampering of bare feet about 
the decks; .a simple command or two is all that is said, at the 
end of ten or twenty seconds perfect quiet will reign, every 
man at his post, whether gun, boat, magazine or bridge. Each 
man will be armed with rifle, revolver or cutlass, standing at 
his post ready to fire a great gun, pass up ammunition, or act 
as sharp-shooter, or whatever his duties may be, at the word of 
command. 

Should the alarm be for fire, the effect will be the same, but 
instead of arming themselves with weapons such as is men- 
tioned above, this time it will be with hose and hand grenades. 

After evening quarters, the bugle sounds "mess gear," and 
folding tables are taken down from the decks overhead and 
benches .appear as if by magic. In five minutes, where there 



58 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

had previously been no sign of mess gear, food, etc., you will 
see tables prepared for supper, standing in rows on each side 
of the deck, the jackies standing or sitting about waiting ex- 
pectantly. Some times an order from the officer-of-the-deck 
calls a division or two on deck, delaying the meal some, but 
generally as .the snip's bell strikes out the hour, boatswains 
mates pipe supper, and all hands sit down simultaneously. 

When in port the general run of food in the navy is fairly 
good, but to have it satisfactory it is customary for every man 
to add three to five dollars a month to the regular navy ration. 
As the messes usually have twenty to thirty members, this 
makes quite a change to the better. 

Then, of all times a sailor loves, comes the frolics in the 
evening. After supper his day's work is done, unless he is on 
watch, lights are lit (generally electricity) pipes are filled, the 
smoking lamp lighted, and every Jackie settles himself as suits 
best his idea of comfort. !No chairs are furnished him, but he 
makes shift with a ditty box*, or, if need be, can be quite 
comfortable on deck. Here a little group are playing cards, 
across the deck another crowd is listening attentively to some old 
tar's yarn, generally interesting. How, a couple of two hun- 
dred pound coal passers have on the gloves and are doing 
their best to win applause from their audience by "knock'n the 
stufT'n out'n each other"; a few are scattered about writing 
fond letters to loved ones at home to be mailed at the next port. 
The deep melancholy of home sickness is often experienced, 
and the absence of feminine society adds much to the "all 



*Small box for comb, brush, looking glass, thread, etc. 




U. S. S. Bennington. 



it ] 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 61 

alone" feeling. At nine-thirty the bugler blows "taps," and all 
must be in their hammocks. There are one or two on board, 
maybe, who kneel down to say their prayers at night, but they 
are young, and, perhaps, after a few more weeks' absence from 
home they too will forget it. None are very bad, only careless. 
All live much as a great family, little quarrels, "hurt feelings" 
and "sassy" words sometimes, but usually in the best of humor 
and ready to skylark. 

In the morning at eight bells (eight o'clock) "old glory" will 
be hoisted at the peak (taken down at sundown in the evening), 
and at the first note of the accompanying bugle, every Jackie 
jumps to his feet, faces the colors, stands at "attention" and, 
as his very best sweetheart, the stars and stripes, reach the peak, 
his right hand comes up to his cap with a snap in the military 
salute. Under his breath he may mutter, "dollar," another 
day's salary earned, but his heart is right, and he "jumps into 
his work" determined to do it again. 

The officers, Annapolis graduates, I will term them, rank re- 
spectively Admiral, Eear Admiral, Captain, Commander, 
Lieutenant-Commander, Lieutenant, Lieutenant Junior Grade 
and Ensign. Those of the ranks of respectively Lieutenant- 
Commander, Lieutenant, Lieutenant Junior Grade, and En- 
sign, as well as naval cadets, under instruction, act as executive 
officers, navigators, ordnance officers and perform line duty as 
officer-of-the-deck, etc. In the special branch there are the pay 
.and medical officers and chaplain. 

They are expected after the course at Annapolis 1o be cul- 
tured, refined and thorough gentlemen. Some of them are. 



62 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

However, it is unreasonable to assume that all the competent 
men of the navy have graduated at Annapolis. Under the pres- 
ent system of promotion in the navy of the United States, the 
enlisted man has little or no show for advancement to commis- 
sioned ranks. It appears to me, after three years' experience 
and close observation of this matter, that if it were made pos- 
sible for them to cross this great barrier, men of brains, com- 
petent in every way, would soon be found in the ranks of the 
navy to fill the best positions with equal satisfaction to the 
government. Of course, the "Sampson" affair brought out one 
step in the right direction, but it seems to me to be insufficient 
— five warrant officers .are to be promoted to commissioned rank 
each year. But when you consider that Annapolis graduates 
hold the examinations and pass upon the merits of the cases, 
and that they are not in favor of promotion from the ranks, 
it is easy to guess how much chance the warrant officer has of 
securing promotion. A few have been so promoted, but, in my 
opinion, there will not be a great many such promotions. 

The government is supposed to act for the best interests of 
our people. In the hearts of the American people all men should 
stand an equal chance. To carry out this noble principle, you 
must open the way to advancement in the navy, and make com- 
petition the life of trade, as in other affairs. Then, and not 
till then, you will find naval men of brains satisfied to spend 
years in the lowly positions in order to finally receive a suit- 
able reward. If advancement is possible, boys in the navy will 
spend their leisure hours in study rather than in revelry, idle- 
ness and sin. Take away that non-American sentiment, that 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 63 

one man serving Uncle Sam is any better or more deserving 
of promotion, except for meritorious service, than another, 
and all will be harmony in his service. The morals of the 
navy's personnel will be improved. Teach young officers at 
Annapolis to respect the "man behind the gun" as well as vice 
versa. Let the "man behind the gun" feel that by application 
and exertion he may hope to wear gold lace and be termed "a 
gentleman," as well as Annapolis graduates, and you will find 
a willing and worthy man. Let me say here, that this state- 
ment must not be brought to bear down upon the enlisted man ; 
he is already a "worthy man," doubly so because he serves faith- 
fully with no hope of reward, which patriotism puts to shame 
that of any navy man or men, let their policies be what it may, 
who seeks honor, praise and promotion for his achievements. 

As an example, I entered the navy in the lowest position, 
that of "landsman," with pay of $16.00 per month and ration. 
In eighteen months I had passed, without pull, through all the 
intermediate grades to the rank of chief yeoman, with pay 
of $60.00 per month — the highest position an enlisted man can 
hold in the clerical branch of the navy at sea. It is but fair 
to assume that, if I could pass through all these grades in 
eighteen months, in years to come I might climb higher if, ow- 
ing to the present system of promotion, it were not practically 
impossible. Why should I, at twenty-five years of age, be will- 
ing to come to a standstill professionally for the rest of my 
life, with no hope to satisfy a higher ambition? 

No; congressmen, men of influence, citizens of Iowa, hear 
the prayer of an Iowa boy, who has proven himself by faith- 



64 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

ful service, and who has not forgotten his old "shipmates" on 
the other side of the world — who are still struggling as he has 
done! For the good of thousands of these brave men of our 
navy, who, I believe, are not given a fair chance, you should 
act without further delay. Use, at once, your influence, bring 
the power of oratory and fame to bear for the cause, and se- 
cure, without delay, a board of twelve good, firm, clear minded, 
honest men to investigate the state of enlisted men of our navy. 
If you find that my ardor has biased my opinion, and that 
they are in no need of the searchlight of public opinion thrown 
upon them, there can be no harm done ; but if you find the op- 
posite, great good will follow. 



CHAPTER III. 

THE FILIPINO AT HOME NAVY'S CO-OPERATION WITH THE 

ARMY PRESIDENT SCHURMAN, OF PEACE COMMISSION 

TOUR OF ISLANDS AMERICAN SULTAN AND 

HIS HAREM BEAUTIFUL SCENERY OF 

THE ISLANDS CHASING- FILIBUS- 
TERS VISIT OF PRINCE DE 

BROGLIE OF FRANCE. 



T 



HE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS are inhabited by about 
eighty different tribes of people, which may be roughly 
grouped as Negritos and Pagan, Mohammedan, and civi- 
lized Malays. The majority of these tribes are still in a state 
of barbarism unhampered by the confines of civilization. As 
the census returns under Spanish rule are notoriously unreli- 
able, the exact population of the islands is unknown, and, ow- 
ing to the unsettled and barbaric state of the archipelago, it 
may be many years before a complete official estimate can be 
obtained. There are probably eight or nine million people. 

The Filipino is a small man, slightly darker than the Chi- 
nese. They are not a very hardy people, and seem to be the 
outcome of generations of physical neglect and disease pecu- 
liar to the tropics. Many faces one sees about the islands 
have a habitual pinched look of suffering. They are natur- 
ally smart and quick to learn from either a good or a bad ex- 
ample. To those who first see them they appear indolent and 



66 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVV 

lazy, but this is largely due to climatic conditions and long 
tyranny of the Spanish rule. Under the care of the United 
States government and given the opportunity, they develop 
wonderful abilities, and will often equal, if not surpass, the aver- 
age American in a business proposition. They are generally 
treacherous and, in many parts of the islands, it is .as much as 
a man's life is worth to place it in their hands. They do not 
like to work, but if driven to it, they show considerable ability, 
especially in mechanics. They are inveterate smokers, using 
principally cigarettes and gigantic home made cigars. 

The women are virtuous and generally clean. They make 
excellent wives and mothers, but are not unsurpassable as house- 
keepers. When young they are often pretty ; but age rapidly ; 
fifty years usually finding them hideous. They live on a very 
meagre allowance of food, .and their homes generally contain 
only the bare necessities of life. 

The typical Filipino house, or "shack," as the "boys in 
brown" term them, is usually of but one story, built of split 
bamboo, and thatched with long, coarse, native grasses. Often, 
they stand on piling five or six feet above the ground, a short 
movable ladder being the only means of ingress. There are 
usually two or three rooms in the home of a Filipino, but they 
are shockingly bare with regard to fixtures. A bamboo cot, 
perhaps, with a straw matting or two, .and mosquito bars, for 
use at night, with a couple of pans and kettles and half a dozen 
broken dishes or cocoanut shells, complete the list of furniture, 
pottery and culinary outfits. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 67 

They usually possess two complete suits of clothing, with 
another fancy shirt, perhaps, for extra occasions. On Sundays 
or holidays the people doff their working clothes and appear 
in public decked in all the ridiculous finery imaginable. 

The dress of the men consists of a pair of loose trousers of 
white or light goods, with a gauzy shirt worn outside the pan- 
taloons, flowing loosely about the figure, through the folds of 
which can be seen a thin ordinary undershirt ; and a very an- 
cient styled derby or straw hat. Shoes are not ordinarily pre- 
ferred. 

The dress of the women is much the same, excepting the 
skirt, and they seldom wear head covering, unless, occasion- 
ally a lace facinator. Instead of the waist worn by Ameri- 
can ladies, they have a short gauzy vest or jacket, with short, 
wide flowing sleeves, highly embroidered and loose. Shoes and 
stockings are not worn by the middle class people except on gala 
days. 

The women have beautiful black hair, upon which they spend 
considerable of their time. They can often be seen engaged 
in an interesting occupation, in connection with their hair. 
I could not state precisely what they were doing, as my ex- 
perience in such matters is slight, but one fair "senorita" or 
"senora" would sit patiently on a chair or other object, while 
a female friend went carefully through her tumbled tresses, 
occasionally stopping to catch some small object on her head; 
then with the aforesaid small object held carefully between 
thumb and fore-finger, with the little finger extended in a 
pleasingly graceful manner, quickly strip the hair from the 



68 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

lady's head to its end, whereupon she would drop into the fun- 
niest habit of pressing her thumb nails together! I never 
knew just what they did this for, but it is possible that they 
found something in the hair; perhaps it was alive. 

The Filipinos have a very queer habit of squatting on the 
ground instead of sitting on a chair as their white brothers do. 

About the time of which I am writing, affairs in the islands 
assumed a sinister appearance. Fighting was going on in the 
Islands of Luzon, Cebu, Leyte, Mindoro, Panay, Palawan, 
Mindianao and a few others of minor importance. The naval 
station was divided into sub-centers of, respectively, Cavite, 
Subig Bay, Lingayen Gulf, Ilo Ilo, Cebu, Zamboanga and Jolo, 
from which centers or bases the co-operation of the navy with 
the army was carried on under the general supervision of a 
general in Manila and an admiral in Manila Bay. 

The Bennington, as the rest of the cruisers, was kept con- 
stantly employed, principally in southern waters, as station 
ship of a sub-center. It was often necessary, however, for her 
to take the field herself, as well as the several smaller boats 
under direction of her commanding officer. The small captured 
Spanish gun-boats, Calamianes, Mindoro, Villalobos, Basco, 
Leyte, and others, together with the American gunboats, Prince- 
ton, Marietta and others, were controlled a part of the time 
from the Cebu station, and reports of daily cruising against 
contraband of war and chasing filibusters were intensely inter- 
esting. Some of them had engagements with "insurrectos" 
nearly every day. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 71 

About this time, as the United States forces were too busy 
in other parts of the archipelago to give attention to the place, 
one of the minor sultans of the Sulu Islands, a southern group 
of the Philippines, moved with his rather poorly equipped 
native army against the city of Zamboanga, principal city of 
Isla de Negros, situated on the extreme southwestern end of 
said island, with success; having driven the "insurrectos" out 
of the city and taken charge himself in the name of the United 
States, this Mohammedan chief immediately requested that 
American soldiers be sent to his assistance. This was indeed 
badly needed, as his force was entirely too small to hold out 
long against the daily increasing numbers of the foe. 

In compliance with the request of the sultan, two companies 
of soldiers were sent to Zamboanga for co-operation with the 
sultan's troops. 

On the 22nd of ISTovember, 1899, the insurgents threatened 
immediate outbreak and vowed to massacre all Americans and 
Mohammedans on the island. The Bennington was ordered 
to proceed at once to their relief. 

On receipt of the above mentioned order, the Bennington 
was lying off Cavite in the Bay of Manila, under orders to 
proceed to Cebu as station-ship, immediately upon the arrival 
of the commander-in-chief, who had gone with the flagship 
Baltimore (Dewey with the Olympia having been replaced by 
Eear Admiral J. C. Watson) to investigate the wreck of the 
cruiser Charleston, to the north of Isla de Luzon, and bring 
back her crew, who were stranded on a tiny island there. 



72 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

As the situation was extremely critical at Zamboanga, and 
it was feared they would carry out their dire threat of massa- 
cre, the Bennington proceeded post haste to (their relief. By 
putting on forced draft and firing all four boilers, she managed 
to make about fifteen knots per hour the entire distance. 

Arriving at Zamboanga on the evening of the 24th, we found 
the Castine anchored off the city, and all the trouble over — in- 
surgents surrendered. 

I give this incident here to portray to the minds of my 
readers the state of constant excitement and emergency in 
which our daily lives in the Philippines were spent. There is 
always a great deal more preparation and expectation regard- 
ing war than real battles. But the strain is, possibly, greater 
in such times than if .actually engaged in warfare. 

Accordingly, there being no need of her services at Zambo- 
anga, the Bennington proceeded at dawn the next morning to 
Cebu to take charge as station ship. Cebu is a town of prob- 
ably 30,000 inhabitants, and is said to be second in commerce 
in the archipelago. At the time we first arrived there were 
soldiers of the Twenty-third United States Infantry, Sixth 
United States Infantry and First Tennessee Volunteers ; in all 
about five hundred men, scattered along the beach in small 
squads for several miles, and in different parts of the city in old 
Spanish forts and barracks. 

Prior to the occupation by Americans, when the uprising 
against the Spaniards took place, a large number of Filipino 
leading citizens and office holders in Cebu took refuge in the 
hills about eight miles from the beach back of the city. They 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 73 

erected a number of fortifications in a large valley in the 
mountains and placed them in such .a manner as to be inacces- 
sible by the Spanish without suffering a deadly cross fire from 
a considerable number of old fashioned cannon mounted there. 

It is said that about two years before the occupation of the 
island a Spanish regiment undertook to capture these strong- 
holds and was almost completely annihilated; in revenge for 
which the Spanish sent .a man-of-war there and shelled the 
lower part of the town, doing great damage and killing a large 
number of men, women and children. 

At the present time this portion of the town is deserted, and 
the piles of tumbled masonry, standing as the only monument 
of the dead, saddens one; and, though they are only poor, half 
civilized Filipinos, causes one to wish them better luck in fu- 
ture with Spaniards or such tyrants. 

The insurgent forces were still in the mountains when we 
arrived and seemed quite confident of their position. 

Shortly after our arrival I went ashore, and noticing several 
deplorable looking beggars, with peculiar deformities and 
most unsightly countenances, asked a soldier who and what they 
were, receiving the alarming information that they were 
"lepers," and that I must be very careful not to touch them or 
permit them to come in contact with me during their entreaties 
for money, as they make themselves very familiar and threaten 
to touch one with their diseased fingers in order to frighjten 
him into aiding them against his will. 

At this time the city was under Filipino civil law, but later, 
when United States soldiers took control, these lepers were 
taken care of and isolated. 



74 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

A few days after our .arrival, four soldiers of the Twenty- 
third Infantry were returning into town from an outpost, when 
they were suddenly ambushed by a number of insurgents armed 
with spears and bolos. Two of the soldiers were killed outright ; 
one mortally wounded, but he kept pumping away at them with 
his rifle until stopped by death, doing considerable damage, 
however, before that event; the fourth, named Fisher, with a 
spear through one forearm, the long handle dangling along be- 
hind him, fought for his life and managed to get under a stone 
bridge, where only one entrance was accessible, there he shot 
every Filipino that came in sight. He did not know how many 
he succeeded in killing, but told me he knew of three killed and 
several more wounded. He said he did his best, and that 
seemed sufficient. He wore a patch about two and a half inches 
square on his head, and upon my inquiring the cause, said that 
after he had been under cover some time the Filipinos on the 
bridge over him called to him that the "insurrectos" had all 
gone away, that they were "mucho bueno" Filipinos (very good 
Filipinos) and that he might come out, so he peeped out around 
the corner of the bridge, and "quick as a wink caught a stun- 
ner" on the head from a "mucho bueno" Filipino with a bolo. 
He did not look out again until help arrived, when he, with the 
dead bodies of the others, were taken to Cebu. 

Another soldier, said to be from near Moulton, Iowa, 'was 
captured and held captive by the insurgents for several months, 
until by chance ,an opportunity offered to "run for it," and he 
reached safety in the American lines. His adventures during 
this time were intensely interesting as they came to me. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 75 

After the ambush the troops about Cebu made an advance 
upon the stronghold of the enemy back of the city, but found 
them so strongly fortified as to make an attack impracticable 
without aid from the sea, and as the forts were beyond the range 
of the Bennington & guns, we were of no use, except that we 
sent men ashore to garrison the town in the absence of soldiers 
who were fighting in the mountains, and a Gatling gun with 
crew to assist if needed. 

The soldiers succeeded in capturing two of the seventeen 
strongholds of the enemy without the loss of a man. The in- 
surgents had several pieces of ancient artillery with which they 
kept blazing away all day to no apparent effect. Some of 
these forts were in plain sigiht from the Bennington. 

I can see now, in fancy, the gallant little force of boys in 
brown,, with "old glory" waving proudly at their head, crawl- 
ing, stumbling, creeping and charging up the mountainside 
amid the crack of musketry and roar of the enemy's old smooth 
bores; all in plain telescopic view of the ship. I watched the 
brave little band climbing on and on up the gullies, over rocks, 
through thick underbrush, kneeling and firing, clambering to- 
ward the tiny round speck on the summit, high above us in the 
very clouds, from which the belching smoke proved its identity 
as a fort. 

I could also see to their left, amid the scrubby trees, and to 
their right, across the ravine, ambushed insurgents waiting,, 
watching, crawling nearer and nearer, to shoot from cover, as 
is their custom, these brave American boys. It makes my 
blood boil even now, as it then did every man aboard the ship, 



76 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

powerless to aid, within plain sight, we must see these dusky 
little fiends crawling, snake-like, to ambush our friends. 

Bringing my glass back to bear upon our boys, I sould see 
them near the summit, charging with that final dash that either 
kills or captures, straight at )tlhe muzzles of the enemy's guns ; 
up over the ramparts into the forts, as with a last blaze of the 
cannon the "insurrectos" turned and fled for their lives, while 
here and there an "humbre" feels the cold chill of a bayonet, 
or the hot, blinding thud of one of Uncle Sam's steel capped 
bullets, while, with a great shout of victory, they raised "old 
glory" high aloft above the summit of the mountain ; to wave 
the signal "all's well that ends well" to us on the sea. 

On June 10, 1900, President Schurman of the pe,ac,3 commis- 
sion came on board the Bennington, and her commanding offi- 
cer, Commander Edward D. Taussig, United States Kavy, re- 
ceived orders to proceed to such ports as Mr. Schurman might 
designate. 

Ho Ho being the first point of interest, we headed at once in 
that direction. It was the orders of the commander-in-chief 
that as we were on a peaceful mission, we were not to fire on 
insurgents unless absolutely necessary to protect life and 
property of Americans. ! 

Only stopping a short time at Ho Ho, we got up anchor and 
steamed around the coast of Isla de Panay at the request of 
Mr. Schurman, stopping a few hours off the native villages of 
Pandan and Bugason. The friendly spirit evinced at Pandan 
six weeks before toward the Bennington was not proven on this 
visit, as the natives, upon the invitation of the captain to come 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 77 

on board, called to them on the beach by megaphone, hid them- 
selves in the bushes on shore, whereas on the previous visit 
they had come off to the ship with presents, and upon the search- 
light being explained them, expressed themselves as very much 
pleased, and were friendly in every way, both giving and re- 
ceiving presents. The feeling of the natives may have been in- 
fluenced by the captain's ordering a small steamer anchored 
there, whose papers were not properly made out, back to Ho 
Ho. 

From a vessel lying at anchor in the harbor of Ho Ho, can 
be seen early in the morning as the tropical sky first blushes 
rosy red in the east on the appearance of the sun, a great vol- 
cano, towering. 8,200 feet in the air, from the crest of which 
thin white vapor is curling lazily upward to the fleecy clouds 
hovering over her. It is Mt. Malaspina, and a beautiful 
sight, with the red sun touching up the coloring of surrounding 
verdure, clothing the hills and valleys, making a perfect set- 
ting for this beautiful picture. 

Steaming around the east coast of the Island of Panay, we 
crossed the intervening channel and dropped anchor on the 
west coast of Isla de Negros, about three miles off from Baco- 
lod, a very pretty half Spanish and half Filipino village. 

Though I have seen considerable of the archipelago, I con- 
sider this one of the prettiest villages that has come under 
my observation. The Island of .Negros, situated to the south- 
ward of Luzon, is one of the principal islands of the group; 
Bacolod is its second best town, having a population of about 
.5,000 inhabitants. 



78 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

At the time hostilities against the Americans were com- 
menced by Aguinaldo and his allies, these people adopted a 
form of government copied after our own, requesting that a 
regiment of United States soldiers be sent there to .assure them 
protection. At the time of our visit the First California Vol- 
unteers, under command of Brigadier General Smith, was sta- 
tioned on the island, two companies at Bacolod, and others at 
various places about the island, trying to round up a company 
of bandits who were terrorizing the natives, among them Silai, 
Binalbagan and Dumaguete. 

Upon going ashore, I was astounded ,at the beauty of the 
suburbs of Bacolod. First to attract my attention was the in- 
evitable Catholic church, large enough to house the entire popu- 
lation, while the people, I was informed, had been kept in ab- 
ject poverty to maintain it, 

I could not state correctly the dimensions of this great 
cathedral, but may state it as my belief that there are few 
churches in the United States to equal it in size. These church- 
es are familiar landmarks every few miles along nearly all the 
coasts which the Bennington skirted that year, and their size, 
apparent grandeur and magnificence, when compared with the 
miserable, tumbled down shacks of the people, are the surest 
proofs and should be sufficient to prove to the most ignorant 
mind that Catholicism in the Philippines has not made the' bur- 
dens of the people lighter. 

The altar occupies the entire rear of the interior. In the 
center of the .altar against the wall stood a life sized figure of 
the Christ; on his left another of the Virgin Mary. Several 







View on Flagship Brooklyn, Manila, iqoi 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 81 

smaller statuettes of apostles were placed in different parts of 
the church. A very large and beautiful lamp is kept burning 
all the time. The speaking pulpit, in order that the entire con- 
gregation may hear, is a small booth placed in the center of the 
building, high above the heads of the audience, while a very 
fair pipe organ is placed in the front gallery. The organ was 
of German make and, I was informed by the old Filipino sex- 
ton, cost six thousand dollars. 

The market where all varieties of fruit, vegetables, etc., are 
sold, where gamblers congregate and people come to gossip, 
interested me considerably. They are very sharp traders and 
very exacting. 

After visiting the market I went with a soldier for a stroll 
through a cocoanut grove, which was a great treat to me. Occa- 
sionally I would catch a glimpse of a cunning little monkey 
hiding among the green leaves and making faces at us. The 
natives have steps cut in the trees, and upon requesting them 
to get me a green cocoanut, one little fellow, who wore nothing 
but obedience, climbed up a forty-foot tree in a jiffy and 
brought down several green nuts. Cutting off the outside hull, 
he made a small hole in the shell and gave me a most delicious 
drink of the milk ; after I had finished the liquid part of it, he 
broke open the shell, and the nut being young, I could have 
eaten the meat with a spoon had I been so fortunate as to pos- 
sess one, but I did fairly well with his bolo. 

I also attended the cock fights, which did not prove very 
desirable entertainment to me. In fact, when I found that 
the chickens were each armed with a steel knife about three 



82 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

inches long and sharp as a razor, and that each time they fight 
one, or more often both, are killed, I w.as disgusted. When a 
game-cock is mortally wounded, it is often the habit (said to 
bring better luck next time) to cut off his legs while he still 
lives. In my opinion the disgraceful practice of cock-fighting 
should be discontinued in the Philippines ; and while I am on 
the subject, I may as well include certain parts of the United 
States. 

From Bacolod we proceeded with Mr. Schurman to Binal- 
bagan. Nothing of particular interest occurring, the Benning- 
ton was to sail on the morning of the twentieth, but was de- 
layed by finding the army tug Hercules aground in the bayou 
of the river. Our steam launch and gig, after landing a num- 
ber of the Hercules' sick soldiers and crew, finally hauled her 
off on the same morning, narrowly evading death by drowning 
of the entire party. 

However, the Bennington got under way about eight o'clock 
that morning and steaming around the southwest coast of Isla 
de JSTegros arrived at Dumaguete on the evening of the same 
day, where Filipino officials came on board and invited the 
president of the peace commission, his secretary and Captain 
Taussig ashore to dinner. 

We found two companies of the First California Volun- 
teers stationed there, the town orderly and the people peaceful, 
and apparently glad to be under the United States govern- 
ment. 

The president of this province lives some distance out of 
town, so they were entertained at the house of a wealthy widow. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 83 

Her son-in-low, a Spaniard, was the abundantly by nature mas- 
ter of ceremonies, also at the ball following the dinner, which 
took place .at the government house. 

The meals, like all others served to them on the island, were 
a repetition of courses upon courses, which they were forced 
to eat, at least to taste. The wine was poor, but the hostess 
was evidently doing much to honor them and appeared anxious 
that they be highly entertained. 

At the ball in the evening there were a larger number of 
"mestizos" than had been present at entertainments in any of 
their towns. They were, I was told, mainly from the neighbor- 
ing pueblo of Bois, and had temporarily taken refuge in Du- 
maguete. They were rather better looking than ithe other peo- 
ple we had met, but did not show any greater intelligence. 
We left Dumaguete at midnight and arrived at Cebu about 
eight o'clock in the morning of the twenty-second. 

Mr. Schurman and Captain Taussig called upon the govern- 
or, Colonel Hamer of the Idaho Volunteers, and upon his offi- 
cers, Colonel Bayless of the Tennessee Volunteers and Captain 
Pennington and other officers of the Twenty-third Infantry. 
Captain Bayless drove them about the city, but they had not 
sufficient time to visit the churches or convent, the only places 
of special interest. They had a very pleasant visit with the 
governor, who was located in a very pretty, comfortable and 
well furnished house for that part of the world. 

At that time no effort had been m.ade by the army to occupy 
the Island of Cebu, and therefore the "insurrectos," or provin- 
cial government, remained undisturbed. The mosit of the in- 



84 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

habitants were willing, it was thought, to come under the Uni- 
ted States government and protection. 

We left Cebu on the morning of the twenty-fourth, having 
fortunately received one mail from home. At eight o'clock on 
the morning of the twenty-fifth, we anchored in Calderia Bay, 
a few miles from Zamboanga, where we found the collier Iris 
coaling the Castine; after delivering stores and mail for these 
vessels, we proceeded to Jolo (pronounced Holo) on an island 
of the same name belonging to the Sulu group, governed by the 
only United States sultan. 

We landed and Mr. Schurman and the captain visited Cap- 
tain Pratt, the commanding officer, and other officers of the 
Twenty-third Infantry stationed there. 

Jolo is the main island of the group to the southward of the 
Philippines, and is a part of our possessions in these waters, 
which was occupied by the Spaniards in 1875 and 1876, and 
the authority of Spain over this group was acknowledged by 
England .and Germany by the treaty of 1885. The Spaniards' 
possessions, in fact, consisted of this latter town of Jolo, a 
walled enclosure, and small stations on three other islands of 
the group. When Jolo was first occupied, it was a fever in- 
fested place and only used ,as a convict station. 

The energetic commander, or governor, who had been sent 
away from Spain probably to die on account of his republican 
sentiments, made the little place a model of neatness. He laid 
sewers, brought in water, regulated the sanitary arrangements 
and kept the town so clean that the inhabitants expected he 
would punish the trees for the leaves falling upon the streets. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 85 

The inhabitants could not venture outside the walls for any 
distance for lack of roads, and never unarmed. The natives 
on the outside were required, before entering the town, to leave 
their arms at the guard station just outside the wall. In fact, 
except for marketing, the natives of the country were never 
allowed inside .and the Spaniards never ventured far into the 
interior. All the labor of the town was done by convicts. 

The arrival of our troops had worked a change ; there were 
no convicts. The natives were employed in cleaning the 
streets and were not allowed to carry their arms about the town. 
The soldiers visited the neighboring villages outside the walls 
with impunity, and officers, in couples, had dared over consid^ 
erable of the island. 

The cave where Captain Kidd, of piratical fame, is said to 
have buried a great part of the treasure secured during his 
oriental cruise, is situated near this place. 

A German named Schuck, with his father, lived on the island 
many years, he had married a native Sulu, a girl that had been 
brought up in Mr. Schuck's family, and has a large plantation 
in the vicinity of Jolo. With him we rode on horseback some 
four miles into the interior to the top of a hill, from which we 
had a view of the greater part of the island. I was surprised 
to see how beautiful the country was. Between the hills, the 
valleys were rolling and were cultivated to a high degree. 
Clumps of trees dot the surface of the ground, giving it the 
appearance of a park. It only wanted good roads to have been 
unalloyed pleasure. As it was, our little ponies climbing the 
muddy paths would sink a foot or more in the mud holes, and 



86 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

one stream that we were obliged to cross, the ford was one only 
in name, and the water rose nearly to the top of our saddles 
as we rode across. 

Mr. Schuck had about seventy-five acres of coffee trees, a 
large area in corn and rice, and was in fact the most important 
planter and tiller in the island. What trade was not in his 
hands seemed to be in the hands of the Chinese, of whom there 
were about seven hundred in the island. 

Mr. Schurman and Captain Taussig sent word to the sultan 
that they would be around on the other side of the island in 
the afternoon; accordingly upon returning from the above ex- 
pedition, we got under way and steamed around to Maimbun 
Bay, about twenty-seven miles by water and twelve by land. 
We arrived at four o'clock. 

The houses, built on piling over the water, were dirty look- 
ing and the people were little better in appearance. Jumping 
ashore from the small boats, Mr. Schurman and the captain 
were escorted a short distance to a house built on higher ground 
and into a small room, where they were invited to occupy 
chairs while the sultan was being prepared to receive them. 
They stayed there some time, when they were introduced to the 
father of the v sultan with whom they conversed for a few mo- 
ments, and then were told that the sultan was ready to receive 
them. So they followed the crowd of attendants along a nar- 
row and very rough road, erected up over a swamp, built of 
mud and blocks of coral. 

The sultan's house was also rough but a little more porten- 
tious than the others and aping in form the houses of the Fili- 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 87 

pinos. They were ushered upstairs to what might be called a 
veranda ; that was furnished with a cheap mahogany extension 
table, on one side of which was a sofa and the rest of the table 
was surrounded by chairs. The table was covered with a table- 
cloth, not immaculate, some silver and glass ornaments, 
brought, probably, from Singapore, two pint bottles of claret 
and some small liquor glasses. Later on Mr. Schurman and 
some officers, who were of the party, were given each a glass 
of chocolate, and a dozen or more different kinds of cakes and 
confectionery, none of which they tried, were placed upon 
the table. 

By means of an interpreter, Mr. Schurman explained to the 
sultan the object of ihis visit, and the general impression was 
that they were welcome, and that the sultan would make no 
trouble about acknowledging our sovereignty. They were not 
permitted to enter that part of the sultan's house where his 
harem is situated. 

It was dark when they finally returned to the ship, but we 
immediately got under way for Sandakan, Borneo, where we 
arrived on the afternoon of the twenty-seventh. 

I have mentioned only the principal points visited by Mr. 
Schurman, during his inspection, at most of which places he 
was dined and feted by the Filipino officials, meeting every- 
where the elite among the natives. 

It is not my intention to give a complete account of Mr. 
Schurman's tour, nor is it possible from the data in my pos- 
session, so will close the subject by stating that we stayed only 
a few hours at Sandakan, when we returned to Manila, after 



88 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

a two weeks' cruise of about two thousand miles, via Palawan 
Island, the extreme western island of the Philippine group, 
where we found the Filipino flag waving defiantly in the har- 
bor. 

The insurgent general came off to the vessel and expostu- 
lated wildly with the captain for not saluting his' flag on en- 
tering port, but after a few moments talk with Mr. Schurman 
he returned peacefully ashore with his staff, after ordering 
us out of the port. 

Owing to orders received from the commander-in-chief on 
our departure from Manila, and on account of our peaceful 
mission, we could not but retire as gracefully as possible, but 
a vessel was dispatched from Manila immediately upon our 
arrival, the Filipino flag was shot down and the Filipino gen^ 
eral pacified in Uncle Sam's good old fashioned way — with 
shot and shell. 

Another time the Bennington steamed up through San Bar- 
nardino Straits and dropped anchor off Nabug Bay, off Su- 
gat, on the east coast of Luzon, remained at anchor for the 
night and the next morning proceeded to Legaspi, one of the 
most beautiful harbors I have yet seen (here I first discov- 
ered the Pacific, but did not climb a tree in my delight a* 
did Balboa). The harbor appears to be bottle shaped, and as 
we steamed through its narrow entrance, to our right seeming 
to be almost over us, towered the great pyramidical volcano 
Albay, from the truncated cone of which we could see (thin 
coils of smoke curling upward many hundreds of feet above the 
clouds, and down the sides of this beautiful mountain, we 




View on Flagship Brooklyn, Manila, 1901. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 91 

could see the dried rivers of lava, which in 1741, in moulten 
mass, flowed down upon the city of Albay, at its base, bury- 
ing that city completely. Later, in 1897, there was an over- 
flow, but not so heavy as the former. When driving along the 
base of this magnificent pyramid, the peak of which is 8,274 
feet above the sea, a noise similar to rolling thunder, can be 
heard as though it were only a thin crust. This is said to be 
the most beautiful volcano in the world. 

Just opposite the entrance is the town of Legaspi, and to 
the left across the bay from Mt. Albay, a large bluff from the 
summit of which was flying a Filipino flag. 

Our guns were quietly manned and, after four trial shots, 
with the after port six pounder boatswain's mate Hansen fixed 
his sights at 2,200 yards, and aiming at the staff bearing the 
insurgent banner, fired. We could see the small six pound 
projectile describe a most graceful arch, and, while we held 
our breath, the flag of the insurgents toppled to the ground. 
Cheer after cheer rang out for the proud Jackie who fired 
one of the most clever shots ever made in the United States 
Navy. 

Immediately we could see the Filipinos digging away try- 
ing to plant another staff, and as it appeared that they were 
endeavoring to bring a heavy gun to bear upon us, the six- 
inch guns were ordered to begin firing. Like a terrible thun- 
der sitorm the great guns thundered and boomed, as shrapnel and 
solid shot struck and exploded about the gallant little brown 
fellows trying to hoist their colors. Time after time they 
were shot down, but as often hoisted, while the brave little 



92 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

Filipino in command walked the parapet waiving his blade in 
defiance and taunted our gunners with their inability to hit 
him. His escape was truly miraculous, as shells were dropped 
apparently all about him and exploding continually for thirty 
minutes. 

The Bennington, feeling the uselessness of continuing the 
bombardment farther, ceased firing and steamed out of the bay 
leaving the insurgent colors flying, and the gallant little officer 
still walking back and forth waving his sword. 

Just outside the harbor we discovered a schooner rigged 
"parao" flying the insurgent flag, and fired a few shots across 
her bow. She did not heave to but instead made every effort 
to escape to the beach, so, though the captain deeply regretted 
the necessity of doing so, it was necessary according to his or- 
ders to fire at her, which was done, and with a shell through 
her hull, which burst just after passing through, she hove 
to and lowered her colors and sails. Her crew was brought 
on board and one poor fellow, though able to walk aboard had 
a piece of a shell about the size of a man's hand just over the 
heart in his breast. He was afraid to come on board, believ- 
ing torture was to be his portion ; but he was kindly disillu- 
sioned, and treated by the ship's doctor until a few days later 
he died of his wounds and was buried at sea. 

The other prisoners were kept under guard all night and 
given food. Early the next morning three young women were 
found hid away in the parao (a kind of sailboat with out-rig- 
gers) dressed in male attire. One of them was quite pretty, 
and they were very shy when brought out of their hiding; 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 93 

they kept out of sight as much as possible, and seemed very, 
very happy, when they, with the rest of the prisoners, were 
sent ashore and liberated. 

The parao with about a thousand dollars' worth of hemp 
was burned. During my service aboard the Bennington many 
such events took place, but it is not deemed necessary or of in- 
terest to relate them all. 

While at Cebu a few days after this occurrence, we were 
honored by a visit from the French Prince, De Broglie, who 
was touring the world in the English yacht Victoria, which 
only stayed in port a day and night. Visits were exchanged 
between the captain and the prince, who seemed a very pleas- 
ant white haired old gentleman. 

A short time previous to the cruise of Mr. Schurman re- 
lated above, the Bennington, while steaming full speed after 
a "filibuster" on the coast of Isla de Panay, suddenly struck 
an uncharted coral reef in Sapian Bay. She was steaming 
ten to twelve knots when she struck, running high upon the 
reef. The harsh grating sound of the rocks shearing rivet- 
heads as she slid upon the bank brought cold chills to one and 
reminded me that our lives are not assured for all time. 

After throwing overboard considerable coal, lowering all 
boats and heavy movable appliances, she finally backed off 
the next day, when, with collision mats secured, she headed 
for Manila, where upon arrival she was ordered by the com- 
mander-in-chief to Hong Kong, coast of China, for repairs 



CHAPTER IV. 

A TRIP TO NORTHERN WATERS, CHINA AND JAPAN" THE JAP- 
ANESE DRIVING A MAN INSTEAD OF A HORSE 

PRETTY JAPANESE GIRLS. 

AS THE Bennington had clearly demonstrated her inability 
to steam overland, the commander-in-chief ordered her to 
Hong Kong for repairs. All hands were rather glad of 
the accident, as it gave us an opportunity to get out tempo- 
rarily from the heat of the tropics and alt the same time get a 
glimpse of that famous Chinese city. 

In the afternoon of May 10, 1899, the Bennington dropped 
anchor in the harbor of Hong Kong and the next day the 
crew were given shore liberty for twenty-four hours. 

The steam launch landed us at the wharf opposite the cus- 
tom house about dusk in the evening, and immediately upon 
stepping ashore we were surrounded by a mob of jin-rick-a- 
shaw men, clamoring in their outlandish broken English and 
Chinese lingo for our patronage. 

The "rickshaw," as it is termed, is a small two-wheeled 
affair resembling the baby carriage, drawn by half -naked Chi- 
nese, in shafts, who are as a class, the greatest lot of rogues 
and sharpers imaginable. 

Selecting a nice looking "rickshaw," with a good strong, 
healthy appearing man, I climbed in and asked him "can do 
down town ?" Though he appeared very anxious to please me, 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 95 

a blank expression covered his ugly yellow face, his almond 
eyes twinkled encouragingly while he articulated "me no sabe." 
I replied with firmness, "makie shove off, down town." This 
seemed to be perfectly plain to him, and he smiled, nodded his 
head and started off down the street at a round trot. The 
streets looked much the same, and as the shops were being 
lighted, I enjoyed the ride, scenery, etc., except the terrible 
Chinese odor. On and on we flew, darting around corners, 
down narrow streets, up little hills, turning about so much 
that I was completely bewildered. 

Bye and bye it began to dawn upon me that we were pass- 
ing occasionally certain buildings which looked familiar. I 
wondered if there could possibly be any truth in the belief 
of some people, that we have lived on earth before this life 
in a different sphere and country, in some other specie. 

It was enough to make me believe this was true. A per- 
fect stranger in Hong Kong, I was frequently passing shops 
and buildings that appeared dimly familiar. The city seemed 
to be a very large one, for I had driven rapidly nearly an 
hour. 

My "rickshaw" man was beginning to perspire freely and 
inclined to lag a little. It seemed also that the "sike" police- 
men resembled each other closely. After I had counted fifteen 
who appeared to look exactly alike I decided ito ask the next one, 
if he spoke English, where down town was. 

Conjuring up all the Chinese lingo I knew I approached 
him with, "Say, cop, you makie sabe down town ?" Very cour- 
teously, he replied, "Certainly, sir, but if you wish to go 



96 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

down town you must stop riding around this block, and turn 
to your right at the next corner." The Chinaman spoke a 
few words in Chinese to the policeman who immediately pro- 
ceeded to beat him severely with his cane, and ordering me 
to secure another "rickshaw" drove him away without permit- 
ting me to pay him. 

Hong Kong is a distinct island of itself and is owned by 
the English; the proper name of the English part of the city 
is Victoria, in honor of the late queen, whose life-sized statue 
is placed in front of the city hall near the anchorage. . 

The city is built on the site of a small mountain so that 
almost the entire city can be seen at once from a ship enter- 
ing port. There are many modern buildings, and England 
has thousands of soldiers and sailors stationed there in fine 
barracks. The greater part of the business of Hong Kong 
is carried on by Chinese, and some of their stores and curio 
shops are filled with marvels in the way of interesting and 
valuable fabrics, articles of common usage and curios. 

The population is so dense that it is impossible to run street 
car lines, therefore, the heavy traffic is carried on entirely by 
means of "rickshaws" and native carts, drawn generally by 
men. 

In China it is customary for the son to continue in the 
business or trade of the father, so that when a man finds him- 
self born to the "rickshaw," he takes up the shafts as natur- 
ally as a horse would here at home. It is the same in all 
branches. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 97 

I found these odd little baby carriage affairs quite con- 
venient. One can, if he desires only to ride three or four 
blocks, or even should he wish to take a sixty mile trip, as 
I sometimes did, obtain the services of a "Chink" with his 
"rickshaw" for the entire trip at the rate of five cents for 
three blocks or thereabouts, twenty cents an hour or over a 
half hour, with ten cents per hour for a day or more, after 
the first hour. This in the currency of China, usually Mex- 
ican money, which at present is worth 46.4. However, in 
small change the ratio is generally two for one. 

There are several good hotels in Hong Kong, and quite a 
number of prominent clubs among the English officers and 
resident Americans. 

The white residents hold themselves aloof from Chinese 
society; but in commercial pursuits the native cannot be 
ignored. They are extremely smart, keen business men and 
those of higher class are said to be very satisfactory in their 
commercial dealings. 

The United States Navy has a purchasing pay officer sta- 
tioned in Hong Kong, who purchases a great many supplies 
for the fleet on Asiatic station. Many staple articles can be 
sent from there to Manila at a less cost than from America. 

Considerable repairing of naval vessels is done at the Kow- 
loon Dock Yards, across the bay from the city of Hong Kong, 
and the Spanish ships, General Alava, Don Juan de Austria, 
Isla de Cuba and Isla de Luzon, sunk in Manila by Admiral 
Dewey and afterwards raised, were rebuilt there. The work 
and docking is expensive but, considering the extra expense of 



98 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

going one thousand miles farther to Japan, though Japanese 
work is cheaper, when considered in cost of coal, time and 
wear and tear on machinery, it is deemed expedient to repair 
ships of the southern or Philippine squadron at Hong Kong. 

JSTot long after our return to Manila from repairing the 
battered plates of the Bennington it was necessary to send her 
north again to dock and undergo general repairs, so, the health 
of her crew being bad, the admiral ordered her north to Naga- 
saki, Japan, for a general overhauling. 

On April 9, 1900, the Bennington steamed through the 
crooked narrow entrance into the harbor of Nagasaki. Imme- 
diately the beauty and economical farming of these industrious 
little people manifested itself. The mountains surrounding 
the harbor were terraced from base to limit of vegetation by 
rice and garden patches. The people who cultivated the soil 
live in towns and go to and fro each day to work. 

They build stone or mud walls five to ten feet high, then 
filling in from the mountain side, level off a patch of, per- 
haps, twenty yards square, on which they plant. The moun- 
tain sides are terraced with these little gardens, and so ar- 
ranged that water is caught on top of the mountain and irri- 
gated through each little terrace in turn, trickling first through 
an onion bed, then a patch of potatoes, or a rice field, on 
down through, possibly, twenty different little farms, until 
at last it reaches the creek at the mountain's base and rushes 
away to the sea. 

In this manner no particle of ground is wasted. It must 
have taken centuries to effect these improvements, ftor the 




In that Delightful Country of "Grown-up Babies.' 



Lore. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 101 

walls look old, and surrounding cemeteries, with ancient green, 
moss covered, letter defaced tombstones, stand as proof of 
generation after generation laid away in the family lot. 

Like the Chinese, they carry on the occupations of their 
forefathers, and the Japanese love their memory with a fervor 
that becomes a religion. 

Their houses are cunning little box-wood affairs, with lat- 
ticed paper sliding panels for walls, so that on sunny days 
the entire side of a room may be slid back, admitting the most 
delicate mountain flower perfume and sweet song of the many 
varieties of gaily plumed birds. The houses have few fixtures 
except an elaborate dresser, with countless little puzzle drawers, 
and a clock. They have no bedsteads but keep in day time 
a number of heavy quilted bed clothes piled neatly in a corner 
which, at night are made into a pallet on the straw-matted 
floor. The women sleep on a block of wood made to fit the 
neck and base of skull, so not to disarrange their elaborately 
coiled and rolled Jiair. 

Their kitchens are models of ancient plain handiness, kept 
spick and span as a battleship, with stone ovens for cooking. 
Few indeed of their cooking utensils would be recognized by 
an American housewife, but they manage to get up some excel- 
lent dishes with their aid. 

The people are far the most interesting of any met during 
my travels. To begin with, they are a nation of "grown up" 
babies. The women, little, alert, bright, pretty, baby-faced 
and full of fun. The men are the lords of creation in their 
eyes. They are proud, independent, dignified on occasions 



102 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

and very courteous. They have proven themselves gentlemen, 
brave, intelligent and honorable, in their dealings and asso- 
ciations with other countries. They greatly admire Ameri- 
cans, and of late years are willing and anxious to accept mod- 
ern inventions, and are making, perhaps, more rapid strides 
than any other nation on earth toward higher civilization; 
but, of course, they have farther to go. 

Commodore Perry, of the United States ^avy, a direct an- 
cestor of Rear Admiral Frederick Rodgers, now in command 
of the southern squadron on Asiatic station under command 
of Admiral Remey, first opened Japan to commerce, and he 
is so honored by them in memory that a monument was built 
and unveiled last year at the place of his first landing, Admiral 
Rodgers attending with Jris flagship, the New York. 

The majority of Japanese wear the national costume but 
among men European clothing is slowly coming into use. They 
are not able, however, generally to wear our clothes with the 
grace of their own. 

The women seldom appear in other dress than the "kimona," 
and indeed they should not ; for it would be hard to imagine a 
sweeter picture than a young, laughing, rosy cheeked, little 
Japanese lass, trotting along on her high cleated sandals, with 
her hair elaborately coiffured, and her kimona rivaling the 
rainbow in gaudy colors. 

On fine days you can see them by dozens about the streets in 
the afternoon, bare-headed and decked in all the finery imag- 
inable, laughing, joking, holding hands, or strolling along with 
arms about each other's waists, school girl fashion. They 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 103 

will, sometimes, indulge in a wee bit of flirtation with a white 
man, and as long as he does not try to be too familiar will 
laugh, smile, make eyes, and pout at him, but at the first sign 
of undue familiarity on his part, dignity and scorn come read- 
ily to them and they will turn their plump little backs and 
walk away with all the proud scorn and hurt dignity imag- 
inable. 

I found them, if treated right, perfect little ladies and gen- 
tlemen, but it was rather difficult to become accustomed to 
their ways. 

They have little idea of modesty, as we understand it. For 
instance, many public baths are open to both sex, and I was 
informed that it is only of late years that any distinction, 
whatever, was made in such matters, even at the most fash- 
ionable places. 

At railway stations in the interior one toilet usually suffices 
for both sex and no attempt is made in the line of appearance 
or modesty. 

There are many modern schools in Japan, where high art 
and the sciences are taught ; and an educated Japanese recently 
informed me that the higher class of natives are adopting the 
Christian religion. 

The "rickshaw" is a great Japanese feature and the men 
who make this a life-long business are the strongest sturdy 
lot of fellows I have ever seen. I have driven them as far 
as sixty miles in a day, over mountains, through valleys and 
picturesque scenery which might almost tempt angels to inhabit 
our old earth. And to spin swiftly over the excellently paved 



104 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

smooth roads, in the shade of great towering cliffs, through 
bright green valleys, breathing a soft sea breeze, spiced with 
the richest perfume of foreign flowers — to pass through dense 
forests of unfamiliar trees and burst suddenly through the 
narrow green archway of branches upon a white sandy beach, 
where the view stretches for miles out over a sea as deep and 
blue as a Japanese maiden's eyes — I say, to burst suddenly 
out from all this delightful maze of verdure upon the sea 
beach, where tiny curling wavelets roll pretty shells up to your 
feet, is to forget, for the time being, all care and the world, 
to dream and dream of causes and condition, of origin and end, 
in perfect oblivion of all eternity. 

Why it should appear, I cannot say, but it seemed to me that 
the sea about old Japan was bluer, the air sweeter, the flowers 
brighter and more fragrant, and even the birds, though of 
strange variety and throat, sang sweeter. The people looked 
cheerful and happy. The country seemed a land of paradise. 

The Japanese are very thrifty, and in matters of skilled 
workmanship surpass any people visited during my travels. 
Their work in silk embroidery has become famous throughout 
the world. In Nagasaki, I ordered from a shop making a 
specialty of such work, a silk embroidered picture of the Ben- 
nington. Having previously planned the outline myself, I 
described it, the best I could by means of a book printed in 
both Japanese and English, to the manager, who made occa- 
sional notes in the peculiar scrawly up and down writing of 
his people, and seemed to grasp at once my ideas. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 105 

I could not believe that he thoroughly understood my de- 
sign in such a limited and awkward interview, so waited, with 
no little anxiety the completion of his work. 

A week later he came on board the vessel, his yellow face 
wreathed in smiles and his black eyes fairly snapping with 
affected pleasure at again meeting me. When the work was 
unrolled it was with the utmost astonishment that I beheld 
the result of his little daughter's labors. It was simply 
wonderful. In plain description: the picture was embroidered 
on black silk about three feet and a half square. In the upper 
left hand corner the Cuban and Spanish flags were crossed. 
In the right upper corner the Filipino and Spanish colors 
crossed represented the conflict of nations. Worked in the 
two lower corners respectively left and right, were a cavalry- 
man in United States army uniform and sailor in the dress of 
the navy. Inside the circle thus bounded was embroidered 
first, a wreath about two and a half feet in diameter of flags 
of all nations upon whose shores I had looked while in the 
service of our country. The flags, as all the rest of the picture, 
were embroidered in their natural colors, and formed a frame 
for a picture of the Bennington, complete, steaming into the 
harbor of Nagasaki. This also was worked in silk, even to 
the pictured sky and water. It was a masterpiece, and is one 
of the most highly prized souvenirs in my possession. It is 
emblematic of my service and is the finest of its kind I have 
ever seen. 

The tea houses of Japan interest all travelers. They are 
simply pretty little bamboo houses, placed about the country 



106 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

at convenient locations, where travelers may rest and drink tea 
with several nice varieties of sweet-cakes and confectionery. 
I believe the most interesting feature of these tea houses is their 
pretty little laughing girl attendants. Straw and cane divans 
are placed temptingly about, and I found it delightful, when 
weary after a climb of five or six thousand feet up the side 
of a mountain to lie upon a couch overhanging a valley hun- 
dreds of feet below, where the view stretched for miles up and 
down the winding little stream along whose verdure fringed 
banks dotted here and there tiny picturesque cottages of country 
residents, while two or three pretty little maids fussed about 
the house each contributing a part of a dainty refreshment, 
consisting, perhaps, of tea, cakes, gingered bamboo-root and 
candy. 

They would gather demurely about the couch and, if en- 
couraged, would finally become very friendly, pointing to arti- 
cles in the house and repeating the Japanese name desire me 
to speak the English word for the same article. Though they 
could speak no English, it is surprising how much of a con- 
versation one can get up with signs, perhaps, a book of both 
languages, and articles of dress, etc. In two minutes they 
would be nearly overflowing with merriment and as happy as 
birds. If pleased a Japanese lass will either laugh or keep 
her face perfectly calm, while the laugh will sparkle from her 
eyes like raindrops in the moonlight. If something intimated 
should displease her, she will bring such an avalanche of ice 
and hauteur to her aid that you are glad at any cost to win 
again the sunshine. When in sorrow she crawls away to her- 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 107 

self, under the bed clothing kept piled away in the corner, in 
the dark, or anywhere to hide, while her bosom is wrung with 
the most intense anguish and her form shaken in silent uncom- 
forted sobs. Anger has the usual mode of displaying itself — 
she can "give 'em fits" just about the same as an American 
girl. 

Tea is served in tiny China cups, of quaint fashion, and is 
always of the best quality. They are undoubtedly the best 
tea makers of the world. 

During the above mentioned visit at Nagasaki, I chanced 
upon one of the best appointed China stores in the city, and 
being somewhat interested in this commodity of Japan, entered 
making inquiries as to the manufacture, material, design and 
prices. But it was a bad place for a man to go if he did not 
wish to spend his money. 

On all sides there appeared a glare of elaborately decorated 
tea and coffee sets, as well as other pieces. However, having 
entered, it was my next desire to get out as cheaply as possible, 
so selected a pretty tea set of forty-three pieces, decorated in 
Turkish red and gold, with scenes of Japan in natural colors. 
The little cups were almost as thin as paper but said to be very 
tough. I also purchased a small English black coffee set in 
twenty-four pieces, decorated much the same as the tea set, as 
well as several separate pieces and plates. A pound cady of 
fine Japanese tea was put in the box with the dishes and the 
whole so carefully packed, that, though I carried them about 
a year and a half in the orient, and then half the way around 



108 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

the world on my return voyage home, only three cups and one 
saucer were broken on arrival. 

Japanese women work everywhere, in stores, homes, laun- 
dries, tailoring establishments, in offices, drug stores and on 
farms. They are very plump, but much of it is due to solid 
muscle. 

They wear little clothing, except the kimona, and perhaps a 
short flannel petticoat or cloth wrapped about their hips, un- 
derclothing being little used winter or summer. It is a com- 
mon sight, so familiar as to early become uninteresting, to see 
hundreds of women and girls on the streets, trotting along in 
their peculiar way, displaying at every step through the parted 
folds of their kimona dimpled white knees ; but in Japan no no- 
tice whatever is taken of such things because they are the cus- 
toms of past and present generations. 

A household is liable to consist of a great grandfather and 
all his descendants ; the children, as they marry, remaining at 
either one home or the other, making the entire family num- 
ber as high as seventy-five people. Great respect is shown to 
elders, and their homes are often made beautiful by perfect love. 

In Nagasaki I was invited to spend the day and night at 
the home of a Japanese boy, who had been educated in the 
United States. We left the wharf about three o'clock on a 
beautiful sunny afternoon, taking "rickshaws" to the railway 
station nearly a mile away. The drive only lasted about five 
or six minutes, but, as our route lay through an aristocratic 
residence portion of the city, I found it very interesting. A 
fine residence will have shoulder high stone walls about the 



y, 




AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 111 

house with large iron gates through which, as you flit by, can 
be caught a glimpse of the interior. 

Often appears a mosaic stone walk leading to front steps 
of marble or white stone, on either side of which will, proba- 
bly, be carved images of dragons, lion, or a hideous figure, con- 
jured in the brain of some highly imaginative native sculptor. 
A large pair of heavy folding panel doors, opening into a long 
hall extending entirely through the house. A wide stairway 
will sometimes be seen winding upward to the second and 
third story. These houses are usually built of stone, and 
nearly square, with the characteristic tiled roof, artistically 
laid after the Japanese idea of beauty. Very neatly arranged 
tiny lawns usually surround the houses of the rich and flowers 
abound in them. 

On arriving at the depot I found a very neat modern affair, 
copied from American railway depots with a single large wait- 
ing room for both sex. Telegraph instruments were clicking 
away familiarly, but, though I have served as a telegrapher 
in the United States, their words were unintelligible to me. 
They do not use the Morse code, besides they use the Japanese 
language. 

At the ticket office we were asked if we desired first, second 
or third class tickets. My friend, acting as interpreter, secured 
first class tickets and we passed through stilling on to the 
train platform, where a modern narrow gauge train was stand- 
ing, its up-to-date little locomotive puffing and steaming in 
true Yankee style. 



112 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

This seemed homelike. Ranging from the engine aft were 
mail and baggage cars, one first and second class coach com- 
bined, and three third class coaches, the latter filled with ne- 
groes. First class fare being nearly treble the third ; they take 
advantage of economy. It is customary for Europeans and 
high class Japs to ride first class. 

Only one native gentleman occupied our half of the coach; 
a high official of state, I was informed. He seemed to resent, 
a little, the entrance of sailors into his company, but aside 
from occasional scrutinizing glances of curiosity paid little 
attention to us. 

Presently, on the time scheduled, a clanging bell accom- 
panied the pulling out of our train which was soon whirling 
away into inland Japan. 

On either side, as we left the city, began to appear the 
mountainside farms described above ; every foot of ground was 
utilized and the clusters of neat little cottages testified to the 
thrift of such farming. 

It occurred to me that, if American farmers paid more at- 
tention to fertilizing and irrigation, with care as to utilizing 
every inch of ground, their farms would yield more money 
to the acre. In the United States farmers leave six to ten 
feet on either side of fences and at each end of a field, which 
would if planted add a little to the acreage of his plot under 
cultivation. Narrow paths between fields take up the only 
waste in the farms of Japan. There are few fences. They are 
extremely neat and methodical in their farming and homes. 
Loose boards and old machinery lying about, and clogged irri- 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVV 113 

gation ditches are practically unknown. Their homes are per- 
fect pictures, even among the poorest, for old dame nature, if 
assisted, will yield great returns on labor invested, and they 
are not stingy of that. 

On and on we flew past these unique villages, over tiny 
livers whose waters were so clear that fish could be seen plainly 
in their depths, through beautiful valleys of flowers, pretty 
wooded hills, and long stretches of well paved white roads lined 
the mountain and river sides. Everywhere could be seen the 
picturesque little "rickshaw" bowling along at a smart pace, 
with its highly dressed occupants rivaling the landscape in color- 
ing and brightness. 

About every five miles the airbrake and warning whistle in- 
formed us of an approaching station, where all was bustle and 
confusion, while giggling girls bid their friends good-bye, staid 
old officials boarded the train in proud silence, and dogs barked 
at the noisy little engine. 

The depots were models of neatness and the courtesy of 
train and station men was considerably beyond that of Amer- 
ican railway employes. In fact our people might gain con- 
siderable in all public affairs by following the Japs in polite 
attention to their patrons. 

There were no "peanut butchers" or news agents to annoy 
passengers, but periodicals and refreshments could be obtained 
at nearly every station in quaint little shops or booths for that 
purpose. 

In about an hour the forty mile journey was completed, 
where we found "rickshaws" from my friend's father's home 
waiting to carry us a couple of miles to his country seat. 



114 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

The drive was a repetition of many other drives in the coun- 
try I had taken, description of which has already been given. 

As we drove up the little shaded avenue through a tiny park 
of native trees and flowers, a bevy of brilliant figures came 
trooping to meet us with soft exclamations of the only Eng- 
lish words they knew (probably learned since receiving informa- 
tion of our coming visit) of "Oh, Melika (America), Melika, 
welcome, Chesi makie muchie welcome, Melika," while they sur- 
rounded us bowing very low, again and again, their faces 
wreathed in a perfect sunshine of smiles. 

The old father and mother came out and after embracing 
their son, whom they had not seen for several years, invited us 
into the house, the aged father, in complete gala native dress 
leading the way. 

The house was such as that described earlier in the chapter, 
excepting the high iron fence. There wast no fence here but 
quite a large lawn, dotted and fringed with flower beds, decora- 
tive bushes and trees. Several grand old shade trees surrounded 
the house under which cool breezes were wafted from the sea, 
which, owing to the curved coast, skirted their lawn. 

The sky was beautifully blue, hazed with soft, fleecy, silver 
clouds, giving that Indian-summer expression to the day that 
makes such visits complete. 

At the door we stopped and removed our shoes, it being the 
heighth of ill manners to walk upon the polished hard wood 
floors of a Japanese dwelling. 

My friend's sister, one of the delightful little maidens who 
greeted us so cordially, came with straw sandals for use in the 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 115 

house, and begged to be allowed to assist in removing our shoes. 
In Japan, woman's duty is to serve man, and she does it with 
so much grace and willingness that it is her greatest compli- 
ment, and is made a pleasure to both her and the master in- 
stead of a duty. 

By permitting her to see in my refusal of assistance, the 
disgust it was but natural to feel toward a custom that humili- 
ated women to such an extent, I had the misfortune to wound 
her fellings, and it was not until I had spent an hour endeavor- 
ing to please her with tales of American life that she finally 
returned to the characteristic good humor in which I first 
found her. With the aid of her brother's linguistic talent we 
carried on a lengthy conversation, and I soon found her to be 
talented and educated to a high degree. It was a surprise, 
indeed, to see that this girl, in the environments, apparently 
of ignorance, possessed the character and refinement of a per- 
fect lady. Her manners were sweet, and engaging; her con- 
versation piquant and sensible; while her smile and pretty 
baby ways in general completely captivated one. 

She informed me that her education had been completed in 
Tokio, Japan's capital, where there are several high class col- 
leges. 

The entire family were intensely interested in America, 
especially in our government and manners and customs of our 
people. A description of American girls' dress and manners 
interested her, but she held firmly the idea that the American 
girl's dress was less comfortable and picturesque than her own. 

She thought the idea of American girls going out alone with 



116 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

their sweethearts very bad and laughed at our manner of court- 
ship. She informed me that her mamma always accompanied 
her out into society and that her admirers always had to enter- 
tain the "old folks" also when they came. 

She wished very much that she might marry a nice American 
and be taken to his country on her wedding tour, but preferred 
to make her home in old Japan, where she might add to the 
comfort and happiness of her parents in their declining years. 

She showed me some embroidery and grew eloquent in her 
recital of proposed pieces for future work, informing me that 
my American sweetheart should receive a sample of her em- 
broidery, and that when she visited "Melika" she would call 
on us and "takie tea." 

She performed for me upon the samesan, a native musical 
instrument similar to our banjo, but, I regret to admit that the 
music was better when she stopped playing and returned to 
conversation. 

She was very anxious to attend one of our schools, where 
she could, as she expressed it, "Makie learn talk Melika." 

She showed me her dolls, queer little Japanese faced affairs, 
her books, and as a special favor took me out on the lawn to 
see her pet kitten; but the cat, resenting America's intrusion, 
bristled up and as the "boys in brown say" "hiked around the 
corner out of sight." Little Kitsu laughed and said "Him 
jealous ; him makie scatt ! All same Melikan say." 

Returning to the family circle the father gave some order in 
his own tongue, and servant girls brought in the first course 
of dinner. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 117 

And such a dinner! Twenty courses! Chopsticks, sitting 
Turkish fashion on our feet, with a circle of tiny dishes of 
undescribable viands placed on the floor about us. The little 
ladies gave every attention and seemed to anticipate every de- 
sire almost before it was realized. 

I ate a little of nearly all the dishes, but, in strict truth 
there were not many palatable ones to me. The wines were better 
and a puff at their little native pipes, with tea, after dinner, 
with little Kitsu to fill and light it, was the best of all. It 
required strong will power to keep from falling in love with 
Kitsu, but, by the greatest effort, I came away heart whole. 

The aged father gave us all a lengthy lecture or afterdinner 
talk, that, as translated by the son, was deeply interesting and 
sound in judgment, experience and advice. I can see him now, 
in fancy, sitting stoically in the center of the intent circle of 
relatives, his white head bowed with age, his little thin chiu 
whiskers shaking in a funny characteristic way as he spoke, 
while he continually puffed and reached out to be refilled the 
little native pipe of friendship. His twinkling little sunken 
eyes lighted and dimmed with the warmth and memory of love 
as he related, warned and advised the younger generation. 
With what interest and reverence they all listened ! I, like the 
rest, was moved to passion and enthusiasm, as the narrative 
turned and flowed through the crevices of honor, love and ex- 
perience. There have been many lectures, talks and counsels 
that appealed to me at different times of my life, but never 
have I enjoyed one so strange, solemn and interesting. 



118 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

About eight o'clock in the evening we adjourned to the lawn, 
where fireworks and private theatricals had been previously 
arranged for our entertainment. Strange figures of fire were 
fired into the sky to float away into the night until they re- 
sembled twinkling stars of unearthly shapes. Beautiful pin- 
wheels of changing colors, shifting into pictures of fire, and 
finally ending with a great glare of changing colored light. 
Odd Punch and Judies of fire were made to act for our benefit, 
and sky rockets hissing out into the heavens with a terrific 
explosion at their highest point, released tiny bells with para- 
chutes, which tinkled and tolled as they fell. 

A small stage had been erected upon which a Japanese 
tragedy, and love scene were depicted by members of the house- 
hold. There was no music except the monotonous thumping 
of the samesan, which lent interest to the weird oriental scene. 

There were no outsiders invited to meet the "Melikan," as 
would be the case if the situation were reversed and in the 
United States, but their family circle, when complete, num- 
bered about forty people. 

When the lawn entertainment was over, about ten o'clock, 
we returned to the house where wine and cigarettes assisted us 
to while away another hour with story telling, when we were 
shown to rooms and given each a kimona and a block of wood 
for a pillow. The little "shakedown" beds of Japan are not 
quite as comfortable as our own. 

In our little latticed paper walled room there was a bureau, 
clock, samesan, bed clothing and a large square stone carved out 
from the top in which was burning a charcoal fire in ashes. 




Little Kitsu and her Chum. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 121 

On the side of this stone sat a small tea pot, filled and ready 
with two cups nearby, so that, if one desired, a cup of tea might 
help pass any wakeful hours. 

Though amid scenes so strange as to seem almost unearthly, 
sleep came early to me and the little "shakedown" proved so sat- 
isfactory that my first awakening was when the birds were hop- 
ping about in the sunshine outside, chirping a "good morning" 
to we lazy fellows. 

Almost immediately a gentle knock at the door attracted 
my attention while a soft sweet voice articulated "Come Melika 
bath makie all ledy." The door opened a couple of inches and 
a bath towel was thrown hurriedly in, when my visitor fled 
precipitately down the hall amid resonant laughter from her- 
self and mates, who had, probably, drawn lots to see who would 
awaken the "Melikan," and were, no doubt, watching the per- 
formance. 

The bath was a large vat, measuring, perhaps, ten by fifteen 
by three and a half feet in depth, and full of luke-warm water. 
A luxury, indeed, and one of which the Japs make free use. 

I learned that it is customary for both sex, among the na- 
tives, to bathe together in these vats, in fact entire families 
occupy them at once, but the home in which I was being enter- 
tained would, no doubt, study some of the customs of their for- 
eign guest and hesitate to shock him. 

In Japan there is no false modesty or prudery, and in some 
ways it is an improvement. While I do not, of course, advo- 
cate this custom of bathing in public, there are many common 
sense ways of being comfortable, while at the same time per- 



122 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

f ectly chaste and proper, of which Americans fail to avail them- 
selves. 

However, we were spared the embarrassment of public ablu- 
tion and met the family first at breakfast, where all was joy 
and gaity, the "Chesi" appearing even more lovely, if possible, 
than on the previous evening. 

As we were intending to return by the ten o'clock train, con- 
versation was held principally upon the topic of a future visit. 
Little Kitsu promised faithfully to carry me across the moun- 
tains to visit a noted cave and the sulphur springs famous 
throughout Japan for their medicinal qualities, when next we 
visited them. 

She was a perfect little chatter-box, having once become ac- 
quainted, and asked more questions about American girls than 
I could well answer. 

The old mother said little, but kept careful watch concerning 
the comfort of all. She was a sweet, little, old lady and one felt 
toward her that respectful tender sentiment always deserved 
by good kind mothers. 

The little "kiddies" of the household were very, very much 
interested in the foreign "Melikan" and watched with great 
liquid eyes every move and gesture. They were exceedingly 
well behaved ; were, in fact, perfect little ladies and gentlemen. 

One little girl, a mere tot of four years, came and sat down 
upon my knee, while I told her the story of "Little Red Riding 
Hood." She had never heard of it before but said in her pretty 
baby way (in Japanese to her brother, who told me in Eng- 
lish) that she thought the wolf was very, very bad, and if she 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 123 

met him she should look the other way, and, if he said anything 
to her, she would just stick her tongue out at him, even if it 
were naughty. 

The most interesting of all the tales I could tell them, was 
the story of the life of Jesus. They wanted to know about him 
and if I believed it true and a great many things on the sub- 
ject. 

Though not a biblomaniae I had read the bible, and even 
though my interest has since childhood been centered upon 
travel, human nature has held a charm for me also, and in no 
work is it so interestingly portrayed as in the bible. There- 
fore, I was thankful that I could tell them the story of our 
Savior, not in a threatening manner — declaring their souls 
were lost if they did not at once act as I directed — but I told 
them the story as it is, and of his life as he lived it every day. 
Little four-year-old Kisen listened attentively while her brother 
translated the story, until the end, then was silent for several 
seconds, when she finally articulated, "Melikan Jesus lovely 
man." 

I explained that he was not only an American, but also a 
Japanese Jesus, and would even, perhaps, save a little Chinese 
or Korean girl if she was good and loved him. 

The old father nodded approvingly at different times while 
I told the story, and finally went among his curios and brought 
me an English bible from which I read to them parrs of the 
story as I had told it. This satisfied them all that I had spoken 
the truth, and little Kitsu told me in confidence, just as I was 
leaving that she would pray to Jesus for my safety while on the 



124 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

sea, and that I might reach in due time my own home and 
sweetheart on the other side of the world in far off "Melika." 

Our return to the ship was uneventful, except on arriving on 
board, I learned that she was ordered home. 

Oh ! With what joy I sat down and wrote the glad tidings 
home to loved ones. How my heart leaped at the thoughts of 
seeing home once more ! 

But, alas, we do not control all of our lives, and, although I 
fully expected to come home in the Bennington, on the day of 
her sailing orders came from the commander-in-chief to trans- 
fer all men having over a year to serve on their enlistment to 
the New Orleans for return to Manila, which order meant that 
I must again enter the field, and endure the terrible heat of 
the Philippines. 



CHAPTER V. 

PROMOTED ON STAFF OF COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF, FLAGSHIP BROOK- 
LYN WAR OF ALLIED POWERS AGAINST BOXERS IN 

CHINA LEGATIONS BESIEGED BATTLE OF 

TIEN TSIN AMONG THE CHINESE 

DEAD NARROW ESCAPE. 



T 



HE Bennington, after several months' hard service in the 
Philippine Islands, was ordered home. I thought up 
to the last moment that I was going with her, but just 
before sailing was transferred to the cruiser New Orleans for 
transportation to Manila, and ordered to assist Mr. Ruppe, the 
ship's writer, during passage. I felt very badly over it, and in 
a fit of homesickness wrote the following : 

"god forsaken." 

On the eve before sailing, 

At- work in the office, 
The first luff at us railing, 

The captain doth scoff us. 

Forward sneaks Casey (the messenger) 

A smoke to enhale; 
Says, "If executive calls me, 

Bluff 'im sure without fail — 

Say the decks I am seeking ; 

Then should he snort, 
Chase 'im back in his stateroom 

And give 'im a quart." 



126 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

The boats are all hoisted, 

We're now ready for sea, 
"Good-bye Nagasaki, 

To Manila we flee." 

And God help the Dago, 

Who there doth us sass, 
For our temper is ruffled 

By the Bennington' s brass. 

She's off to God's country, 

Where we ought to be, 
But we're here shipped for service, 

Of years there are three. 

Though we viewed all the islands 

Of the Philippine group, 
Long suffered in silence 

Myself and dear Ruppe. 

Again we are bound there, 

The sad dose to repeat; 
Again we must suffer 

All hell from the heat. 

But, though they may roast us, 

General court-martial us to zero, 
With health and God's blessing, 

We'll discharge as two heroes. 

So Casey smoke on, 

Jimmy Legs doesn't know, 
The world is unhindered, 

To Manila we go. 

On the day the dear old ship steamed out of Nagasaki harbor 
for home, I, with a number of others, was transferred to the 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 127 

New Orleans, and had the pleasure of manning the rigging to 
"cheer homeward bound ship," in obedience to the boatswain's 
order, as the one hundred yard homeward bound pennant of the 
Bennington floated out over the bay. We stood on deck and 
watched the ship which had been our home for so many months 
and from which we had witnessed so many queer sights and 
events steam out of the harbor, headed via Yokohama for 
America without us, leaving us once more to fight fever, heat, 
disease and Filipinos in the Philippine Islands, 

The New Orleans left Nagasaki for Manila on May 19, 1900, 
where she arrived on the twenty-fifth. Everything appeared 
unchanged on the islands ; the armies were still fighting, there 
were rumors afloat of hostilities in the near future, but noth- 
ing "doing." 

On the twenty-seventh of May I was transferred to the Mon- 
itor Monadnock, lying off Cavite and acting as guard-ship. 

That night I made my bed on deck under cover of the beau- 
tiful southern heavens. The bright glimmering of the tropi- 
cal moon and sky made the clear night almost like day. The 
water quiet as a mill pond, men-of-war about the bay lying 
at anchor, lights showing from their ports, suggesting probable 
festivities within, and occasionally the creaking of an anchor 
chain, the bark of a Filipino dog, or the voice of a native would 
float lazily out from the bamboo fringed shore half a mile away, 
or across the unruffled waters. 

Of course I went to sleep thinking of home and calculating 
the probable date of arrival of the Bennington in the United 



12b AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

States, nursing my disappointment at not being allowed to go 
with her. 

It seemed that my eyes were barely closed in slumber, when 
a fellow awakened me and pointed to the Bennington lying 
gracefully at anchor on our port beam. Well, I pinched both 
myself and the other fellow, but finally had to acknowledge 
the facts. The Bennington's orders had been countermanded 
and she had returned to Manila. I went aboard and -offered 
to buy their homeward bound pennant and otherwise joked them, 
but soon found it dangerous and restrained my mirth. They 
were in no humor to joke about so great a disappointment. 

The draft which came from the Bennington were told to pack 
up and return to her, but five minutes before departure a signal 
came from the flagship Brooklyn ordering me to report imme- 
diately to the commander-in-chief for duty as chief yeoman -n 
his personal staff. 

The flagship Brooklyn is an armored cruiser of 9,215 tons 
displacement, 400 feet 6 inches long, 64 feet 8 inches beam and 
26 feet draft. She has twin screws, two sets of triple expan- 
sion engines for each screw. Each of the four engines is in a 
water-tight compartment. In ordinary cruising the two for- 
ward engines are uncoupled and only the after pair used, giving 
an economical speed of twelve and a half knots. On her trial 
trip the Brooklyn made an average speed of twenty-one and 
nine-tenths knots per hour for four consecutive hours. She 
has five double ended and two single ended boilers of the Scotch 
type. 




Quarter-deck of Flagship Brooklyn, showing 
Guns of Santiago Fame. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 131 

The battery consisted of eight eight-inch guns, arranged in 
pairs in four turrets, twelve five inch, ten six pounders, four 
one pounder rapid fire guns, two three inch field pieces, and 
several automatic guns for use mainly in landing. There is 
a partial water line belt of three inch armor, reinforced by an 
armor deck from three to six inches thick, and the guns are 
protected by a thickness of five and a half to eight inches. 
There are four torpedo tubes above water. The complement 
carried at this time was thirty-seven officers, five hundred men 
and sixty-eight marines. 

The vessel was built at Cramp's ship yard in Philadelphia, 
launched in 1895, and put in commission in December, 1896. 

She took part in the Queen's Jubilee review at Spithead in 
June, 1897, flying the flag of Eear Admiral J. K Miller, TJ. 
S. K 

During the Spanish- American war, she was flagship of Com- 
modore W. S. Schley, U. S. ~N., and took a prominent part in 
the battle of Santiago. In commemoration of this event, the 
date "July 3, 1898," is inscribed on the after bridge. The only 
man killed on the American side was on the Brooklyn, Chief 
Yeoman Ellis, and there are still one or two marks of the fight 
to be seen on the hull. In the officers' mess rooms pieces of side 
plating pierced by projectiles from the Spanish guns have been 
framed and hung. 

The flagship of the commander-in-chief is a place generally 
kept clear of by navy men as much as possible. Why, I am 
unable to say. There is no real danger, perhaps, but great and 
high authority usually stamps fear into the minds of inferiors. 



132 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

To be a stenographer on the personal staff of so great a man had 
never come into my ambition, so it may be readily understood 
how the above mentioned order startled me. 

While I felt competent of my ability in the capacity of yeo- 
man to the captain of the Bennington, she was only one ship ; 
whereas Admiral Kemey commanded over fifty vessels of war, 
the naval station at Cavite, Cavite Peninsula, and a part of 
Basil an Province, including about seventeen thousand men, and 
I felt certain of my inability to assist in affairs so large. 

The Monadnoch sent me over to the flagship Brooklyn in her 
steam launch and there has never been a time in my life when 
I felt so insignificant as when I stepped upon the quarter deck 
and reported to the officer-of-the-deck my arrival for duty on 
the admiral's staff. 

The officer-of-the-deck looked me carefully over, and it 
seemed to me that I could see him sneer in derision at my ap- 
pearance. 

Calling his messenger, Mr. Boone sent him to show me to the 
flag office. There I stood at "attention" in front of the secre- 
tary, Mr. Belknap's desk, while he ran his eyes over me, much 
the same as he might a horse he was thinking of buying. 

Presently in a very kindly voice he said, "Swift, the admiral 
requires a stenographer; you have been recommended to him 
and are here on trial." Handing me pencil, he said, "Take this 
down," and commenced dictating one of the first naval orders 
issued by Admiral Remey in connection with the war against 
the Chinese Boxers, during the besieging of the legations in 
Peking in 1900. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 133 

From that time on I was constantly employed as confidential 
stenographer on the personal staff of the admiral. It was nec- 
essary to keep secret much of this work, and it was carried 
on by a clerical force of but five officers and five men, which 
constituted the personal staff of the "grand old man of the 
United States Navy." 

He was, in himself, the commander-in-chief, and planned 
the execution of this tremendous military force in a masterly 
and an admirable manner. He is the greatest beloved admiral 
in the navy, and I can see now, in fancy, his clean cut figure, 
denoting by its every line a gentleman, pacing the deck of his 
cabin, his white head bowed in deep thought framing the orders 
that meant life and death to the jackies he loved, in the per- 
formance of the navy's duty. 

He was an Iowa boy, and it was with profound respect and 
admiration that I served him for eighteen months, through the 
trying times of which I shall relate, that added many lines of 
care to his noble brow. A great man, a busy brain, and a heart 
true to his country. It is such men as this who serve the public 
with success and love. In his service I visited nearly all the 
interesting ports from Australia and New Zealand, the Phil- 
ippine Islands, China and Japan, north to Siberia. 

If you stop to consider that men serving in a foreign country 
require a multitude of articles for use, that ships must have 
coal, stores, and repairs; men die, old ones come home, new 
ones go out, others get sick, you will find yourself on a train 
of thought that may develop a crude idea of what the command 
of so many vessels and men means. Papers for all these things 



134 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

must go through the office of the commander-in-chief. The 
command in question covered the territory between Siberia on 
the north and Australia on the south, including China, Japan 
and the Philippines. 

Even though there may be no war in the different foreign 
countries it is necessary to send war vessels to each port of im- 
portance occasionally, to represent our nation and insure pro- 
tection to resident Americans. For this reason, and owing to 
the disturbed state of affairs in China, it was necessary for Ad- 
miral Remey's vessels to keep in touch with all the countries 
named. 

Consider, for instance, the position of the commander-in- 
chief. His flagship is lying at anchor in Manila Bay. An 
orderly continually paces to and fro in front of his door, at- 
tendant upon his call. When the admiral first awakens in the 
morning, there lie at his desk a pile of cablegrams and tele- 
grams with other important messages. Before he can dress 
his orderly will have interrupted him, perhaps, half a dozen 
times with messages, such as "Sir, the Yorhtown signals for per- 
mission to get under way." "Sir, the Monadnock signals that 
the army has signaled her to bombard the trenches of the in- 
surgents on Cavite viejo." "A telegram, sir" — the army wants 
a ship to go at once to the relief of troops at some distant 
point, etc. So it is all day long. Always urgent, always emer- 
gencies. Almost every minute of his day is taken up with some- 
thing of national importance. 

Every order of importance must be written and a record 
kept of it. Most letters must be written in haste. The navy 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 135 

department must be kept thoroughly posted on current events. 
There never seemed to be quite ships enough to fill the require- 
ments. It appeared that some officers and men tried harder 
to keep from doing work than they did to do it. Each man 
continually wanted something or other, and when taken in bulk 
their wants were many. 

It was necessary for the admiral to keep up with the move- 
ments of his vessels. When you consider fifty ships, all 
moving about, reporting by cable and telegraph, at various 
strange named ports, it becomes a heavy task in itself. 

With this introduction as a basis, perhaps my readers will 
appreciate the enormity of the work of the staff of the com- 
mander-in-chief. There was never any time to play, and often 
insufficient to perform comfortably the duties required. 

Just at this time, the uprising of the Boxers in China took 
place, and Rear Admiral Louis Kempff, the senior squadron 
commander, was sent to take charge of naval affairs in China, 
in co-operation with the army and navy of the allies. However, 
it was not long until the situation assumed a more serious as- 
pect and Admiral Remey concluded to proceed himself with 
the flagship Brooklyn to the anchorage off Taku, China, the 
naval base of operation. 

Well I remember the thoughts that stirred my breast at this 
decision. After over a year's steady cruising in action against 
the Philippine insurgents, here I was starting upon a new ven- 
ture the outcome of which only God and time had power to 
tell. Again, during the brief period of my military service — 
less than three years, including army experience, I lived in an 



136 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

atmosphere reverberating the horrors of war. And now, the 
startling question stood out grimly before me — were the com- 
ing years of myj life to be devoted to hostility — to war wath 
my fellow man ? Was I, instead of soon resuming the peaceful 
and happy pursuit of building a home in which to spend my 
declining years, a home where I might be surrounded with 
friends and loving relatives, the choicest of God's blessings, 
must I take the opposite course, and, rather than build for my- 
self, assist to tear down the homes and sacred relations of 
others ? 

Must our beautiful country, America, just at the age when 
life was doubly worth living in her boundaries, of necessity, 
become entangled in war ? If so, it was a sad state, and we 
should pray to Almighty God that there might be, ready at 
'hand, a George Washington to take the helm and pilot her 
through the dangerous reefs and shoals of war into the quiet, 
unruffled harbor of peace. I did not complain ; and if I found 
fault, it was only with circumstances, not with men. 

It seems that the experience gained in countless struggles 
along down the line of past centuries, through which the world 
has passed, would change somewhat the course of events; but 
such is not the case; and so we continue in the enlightened 
twentieth century with war, though modified in effect carried 
on just the same as thousands of years ago. 

At three fifty o'clock in the afternoon of June 26, 1900, 
the flagship Brooklyn, laden with three hundred extra marines 
from Cavite, with field pieces and Colt automatic guns, and 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 137 

stores for three months, weighed anchor and headed for Taku, 
via Hong Kong and Nagasaki. 

At this time the general situation was as follows : The up- 
rising of the Boxers, who had the foreign ministers and their 
legations besieged in Peking, and had killed the German min- 
ister, besides a number of missionaries, had brought out mili- 
tary force from the eight powers, respectively, of United States, 
England, Austria, France, Germany, Italy, Japan and Eussia. 

These powers were represented by troops landed at Taku 
and marching under the British Admiral Seymour to the relief 
of Peking, and vessels of war anchored off Taku, the naval 
base, beside those detailed in the blockading squadron. The 
war vessels numbered, perhaps, one hundred, including those 
of all allied powers. 

The following is a copy of the journal of Admiral Seymour's 
column on the attempt to reach Peking: 

"Admiral Seymour presents his thanks to the foreign ad- 
mirals for the co-operation of their admirals and men. 

"The British commander-in-chief with a light force was at- 
tacked twice June 13th; the Boxers were repulsed with heavy 
losses ; there were none on our side. 

"The fourteenth of June, the train was attacked at Langf ang ; 
serious attack beaten off, with one hundred Boxers killed and 
five Italians killed. In the afternoon of the same day, the 
Boxers attacked the English position at Lofa. Reinforcements 
sent from the front, Boxers were repulsed, losing one hundred 
men ; two English wounded. 



138 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

"Troops sent ahead to Anting had engagements, thirteen or 
fourteen. Boxers lost one hundred and seventy-five. ISTo losses 
on our side. (Railway destroyed.) It was decided on the six- 
teenth to return to Sangtun to march on Peking by the river. 
Leaving Langtang, two wagon trains were attacked ; " enemy's 
loss four hundred to five hundred, our loss six killed and forty- 
eight wounded. 

"June nineteenth, the wounded were embarked to return to 
Tien Tsin. The column marched along the river, meeting oppo- 
sition at every village. After a march on the night of the twenty- 
third it arrived in front of the arsenal above Tien Tsin, at- 
tacked and took the arsenal filled with the enemy's supplies of 
guns and ammunition. We could have held this place several 
days longer, but, being encumbered by our wounded, we asked 
for reinforcements from Tien Tsin. Reinforcements arrived 
on the morning of the twenty-fifth of June. The arsenal was 
turned over to them. The column arrived at Tien Tsin on the 
twenty-sixth of June. 

LOSSES OP THE COLUMN UP THE TWENTY-SIXTH OF JUNE. 

Killed. Wounded. 

Americans 4 25 

Austrians 1 1 

English 27 97 

French 1 10 

German 2 62 

Italians 5 3 

Japanese 2 3 

Russians 10 27 



70 




AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 141 

The United States was represented on the water by Rear 
Admiral Louis KempfT with his flagship, the Newark, in com- 
mand of Captain B. H. McCalla ; the Castine, Monocacy, York- 
town and the dispatch vessel Zafiro, and on land by detachments 
of marines and sailors, in the column of Admiral Seymour, 
marching to the relief of our representatives in Peking. Cap- 
tain McCalla, of naval fame, commanded our marines and 
sailors ashore. On the seventeenth of June, the Chinese forts 
at Taku fired upon the foreign allied ships anchored inside the 
bar, with result that the ships attacked and silenced the forts. 

The American ships of war, for diplomatic or other reasons, 
did not join in this attack but the Monocacy was struck by a 
stray shot or two. 

Admiral Seymour's column had about this time found it im- 
practicable to attempt to continue their march on to Peking, 
owing to strong resistance, and had returned to Tien Tsin, 
with no slight per cent of casualties. 

The Japanese naval attache at Tien Tsin received from the 
Japanese minister by a messenger thirteen days on the road, 
the following: 

"The situation in Peking becomes more and more critical. 
The Chinese imperial troops bombard the legation day and 
night. All the detachments defended the legations with all 
their force. The English, French and Japanese are the only 
legations left now. Ammunition is nearly exhausted but the 
ministers hope for relief by the relieving forces." 

The messenger added that all the persons of the legation are 
at present in the English legation. Provisions are nearly ex- 



142 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

hausted and after the first of July there will be no means of 
procuring them. 

It was deemed by the learned and experienced commanders 
inexpedient to attempt the rescue with less than sixty thousand 
men, well armed and equipped. Soldiers were being daily 
landed at Taku by thousands from all allied nations, and the 
United States were bringing soldiers to China as fast as trains 
and steam could accomplish it. 

To us out there in the field, though we were anxious and 
impatient to get into the fray, it seemed that the George Wash- 
ington mentioned above had, in fact, taken the helm, in the 
person of President McKinley. 

In my confidential position there was ample opportunity to 
observe the undercurrent of diplomacy, both at Taku and in 
Washington, and the situation was, in my opinion, handled in 
the most admirable manner. One could feel the extreme care 
and thought with which this great president was steering the 
governmental craft, and it was, perhaps, owing to his great- 
ness, that a terrible international war was averted. 

I am, in politics, a democrat ; but how can one but admire a 
man, even if he is a republican, who conducts his country so 
nobly through these dangerous strifes and political intrigues. 
He was, beyond a doubt, as greatly beloved as any president 
of our great country and lived himself as he advised others to 
live. 

I may mention here, that later, when the shocking news of 
his dastardly assassination reached us on the other side of the 
world, profound grief cast a gloom over the entire naval and 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 143 

military forces, and even Chinese and Japanese spoke in sor- 
rowful tones of reverence their regrets and praise of this noble 
man. Flags were half masted and salutes fired by all ships in 
the anchorage, while funeral services and prayers were held 
by all naval and army forces on the other side of the world, 
as well as those at home, in honor of our cruelly assassinated 
president. 

Like President Lincoln, McKinley tried to help the lowly, 
ignorant and helpless colored man — Lincoln, the friend of the 
negro ; McKinley, the Filipino. Both the friends of everyone ; 
and I have heard Filipinos denounce, in most forceful words, 
the traitor who slew his country's sincere friend and leader. 

Arriving on July eighth off Taku, China, the Brooklyn, fly- 
ing Admiral Remey's flag of rank was greeted with the thunder- 
ing of many guns ; but they were only. salutes fired in honor of 
the admiral's arrival. 

Men-of-war were all about us, and the terrific thundering 
and blaze of their salutes suggested what the scene and confu- 
sion might be should these great steel monsters turn their 
powers against each other. Santiago would be as nothing com- 
pared to them. 

On account of a bar running out from the shore, large ves- 
sels cannot go closer in than about nine miles of Taku; small 
gunboats go up the Pei Ho, thirty miles to Tien Tsin. 

On July ninth, our three hundred marines, under command 
of Colonel Mead, and two battalions of the Ninth Infantry, 
under command of Colonel Liscum, from the United States 
army transport Grant, landed at Taku. They left on the 



J 44 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVV 

eleventh for Tien Tsin, where they arrived on the same night, 
and were reinforced by over one hundred marines, under com- 
mand of Major Waller, United States Marine Corps, who had 
preceded us from Manila. The only part of Tien Tsin held fry 
the allied forces was the foreign concession. The Boxers and 
imperial troops were in the walled city which was strongly for- 
tified. 

Early on the morning of July 13, 1900, the allied powers 
attacked the Chinese ; about seven thousand troops all told ; 
the Americans numbering about one thousand. 

The following report made by a famous colonel of marines 

of the battle of Tien Tsin is considered accurate and fair to all 

parties engaged: 

"Headqttabteks United States Forces, 
"Tien Tsin, China, July 16, 1900. 

"I left Tongku on July eleventh at about eight fifteen o'clock 
and arrived at Tien Tsin after midnight. I found Major 
Waller and his force quartered in the European concession in 
houses which were nightly under the shell fire of the enemy. 
Small bodies of the enemy also controlled the street with rifle 
fire at night, this fire generally beginning at about ten o'clock 
and lasting until about daylight. 

"Only the foreign concessions were held by the allied forces 
when I arrived, the French concessions being near the walled 
city, the English next and the German lowest down the river. 
The walled city strongly fortified and all other portions of 
Tien Tsin also strongly fortified, were held by the Chinese 
imperial troops and the Boxers. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 145 

"Our force took turns with other troops of the alliance in 
guarding the railway station, which was in an exposed place 
almost continually under shell fire, and a very dangerous duty. 

"On the twelfth instant at a conference held at the English 
general's headquarters (Brigadier General A. R. F. Dorward) 
it was decided to attack the city at about daybreak the thir- 
teenth, and I was called upon to furnish a quota of one thousand 
men — our marines, twenty-two officers, three hundred and 
twenty-six men — and a force of fifteen officers and four hun- 
dred and thirty men from the Ninth United States Infantry 
was still at Taku, or en route. 

"At three o'clock in the morning I marched out of barracks 
with a force of twenty-two officers and three hundred and 
twenty-six men in four companies A, D, C and F, commanded 
respectively by First Lieutenant S. D. Butler, Captain C. G. 
Long, Captain A. R. Davis and Captain B. H. Fuller. Com- 
pany F was an artillery company with three rapid fire guns 
and three Colt's automatic guns, and this company was sup- 
ported by Company D (Captain Long), who was also the com- 
manding officer of the second battalion of the temporary or- 
ganization I have with me in China. 

"We marched through the Taku gate by the road leading to 
the south gate of the walled city in two columns, the Japanese 
forces being to the right and the English and American forces 
on the left. The column in which the Americans were, were 
distributed as follows: Two companies of the Royal Welch 
Fusileers leading, followed by the marines (infantry and ar- 
tillery), the English naval artillery, then the English naval 



146 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

brigade, and finally the Ninth United States Infantry (four 
hundred and forty-five officers and men). The road was very 
heavy for artillery, such as we had, and I do noit advise the 
naval gun to be used as a field piece until some device is gotten 
up as a limber, because the trail wheel plows into the ground 
and the dykes and ditches which were frequently met with ne- 
cessitated all the united force of two companies to get the guns 
across, costing much strength which should have been reserved 
for the fatigue of the battlefield. 

"Our verbal orders (we had no written ones) were to march 
on a line parallel to the city wall about a thousand' yards in 
rear and to the southward of the bridge at the south gate and 
there the commanding officers were to receive their final in- 
structions. ]STo such meeting, however, was held, and my or- 
ders for the marines were to advance along the mud wall in a 
northerly direction with two infantry companies, leaving the 
artillery company and its infantry support to act in connection 
with the British field artillery and to open fire at a point where 
the Chinese had several 4.7 or 6 inch guns mounted which had 
been particularly obnoxious. We arrived at the south gate 
about five o'clock a. m. 

"The naval battery of the Terrible, under command of Cap- 
tain Bailey of the Royal :N~avy, had opened fire on the forts 
and the guns of the enemy just before our arrival and they 
were responded to by the enemy vigorously. This battery was 
so accurate in its fire that every small shell was said to have 
landed in the place intended for it and at about five forty o'clock 
in the morning the Chinese magazine was exploded with a shock 



AROUND THE WORLD IM THE NAVY 147 

which was almost like an earthquake, and was distinctly felt 
by all of us who were standing fully one mile and a half from 
the point of explosion. 

"At about six thirty in the morning I received orders from 
the British general to support the Royal Welsh Fusileers in 
an attack on the extreme left, and we crossed the wall in skir- 
mish line having an extensive swamp to cross. The country 
was a flat level one, with grave mounds and dykes in great 
numbers, and these already dug trenches were a very consider- 
able help to us, as in such an open fire swept plain we would 
have had difficulty in advancing and would have been com- 
pelled, with only the bayonet, to throw up hasty entrench- 
ments, the fire of the Chinese both in artillery and infantry 
was fearfully accurate, as the casualty list will evidence, and I 
thank God for the mounds and graves. 

"We advanced by rushes to a line of trenches about eight 
hundred yards from the enemy. We found that in our front 
there were very bad swamps and a stream of water which 
would render it impossible for us to have reached the city at 
that point, but I believe it was not intended we should advance 
farther, as the Royal Welsh Fusileers were then in the same 
skirmish line with us. We reached the advanced position 
about eight o'clock in the morning. I took one hundred and 
eighty rounds of ammunition per man with me, one hundred 
in the belts and eighty in the haversacks. This is not sufficient 
for an all day fight, and as it grew towards night, I began to 
be apprehensive of being left in an advanced position iu a fight 



148 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

where no prisoners were taken on either side, with only the 
bayonet to fight with. 

"On the firing line the action was extremely hot and the 
enemy's fire especially accurate. At about eight thirty in the 
morning, the enemy appeared in large numbers upon our left, 
among the grave mounds of the field in which we were, with 
the evident intention of flanking us. I made a turning move- 
ment to the left and rear and we drove them away. Later in 
the day, about two p. m., they again made a flanking effort, 
but at this time the infantry support of the artillery company 
was on the mud wall of the city and aided us by cross fire. 
This company was commanded by Captain C. G. Long. The 
effort of the enemy proved a failure and we drove them in. 

"We remained in the trenches until about eight o'clock in 
the evening, when we received an order from the brigadier gen- 
eral commanding to withdraw, which was probably the most dif- 
ficult action of the day, since the enemy had so well covered our 
position that their shots struck crests of the trenches and threw 
dirt dn our faces, many being hit. I ordered the withdrawal in 
small parties of eight to ten men to rush from mound to mound, 
or trench" to trench. I had previously sent the wounded to the 
rear under particularly unfortunate circumstances. I had also 
to send one dead officer to the rear. 

"The withdrawal was successful, only one man being hit, and 
we were soon in safety under the mud wall near the south gats. 

"General Dorward ordered that the troops should sleep upon 
their arms that night and on the following morning enter the 
city, the south gate to be blown in by gun cotton. 



C/3 




AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 151 

"The troops had had nothing to eat on the thirteenth save the 
small luncheon bags, if it may be so called — which each man car- 
ried in his haversack. It was not expected when we started out 
that the action would prove so long — but General Dorward, 
knowing the situation, kindly sent to the reservation for food 
and other necessaries ; the bivouac proved a success and the men, 
although very fatigued, were ready for duty. 

"On the fourteenth instant, the south gate having been blown 
in, we moved into the walled city at about six o'clock a. m. 

"We found the city filled with dead Chinamen and animals. 
No resistance was made to our occupation in the walled city 
itself, but an infantry fire was kept up by the Japanese infantry 
upon the enemy who responded from the suburbs. Since then 
we have had undisturbed possession of all Tien Tsin. 

"During the day of the thirteenth instant, my force of ma- 
rines, stationed at the railway station were vigorously attacked 
and suffered heavily. 

"The conduct of my officers and men I cannot praise too 
highly. I had them, for the most part, under my personal eye. 
I especially desire to call your attention to the conduct of First 
Lieutenant Charles G. Andresen, whose fearless conduct ex- 
cited the admiration of all; First Lieutenant S. D. Butler, 
who at great risk of his life, went out of the trench to bring 
in a wounded man and was shot while doing so; First Lieu- 
tenant Henry Leonard, my adjutant, who brought First Lieu- 
tenant Butler in in safety and was dangerously wounded, all 
conducted themselves well and I cannot commend them too 
highly. 



152 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

"Since the armed force of the Chinese have been driven 
away, one conference of the representatives of the eight powers 
has been held with reference to city government, and this con- 
ference is to meet again tomorrow to elect a president. There 
is much difficulty in the mixed up condition of affairs and the 
French representative is the chief one in making regulations 
difficult. 

"I had almost forgotten to state that, the Russians in force 
attacked the north side of the city while we were engaged on 
the south. One part of my force was at the railway station 
during the battle and were driven back by the shell fire. They 
did not retire far, however, and they guarded what they were 
sent to guard. 

"I regret to report the death of Captain A. R. Davis who was 
killed at my side in the advanced trench. He was killed al- 
most instantly. I had his body brought in with the two 
wounded and he is buried here in Tien Tsin, his grave being 
marked. 

"This was all I could do. Colonel E. H. Liscum, command- 
ing the Ninth United States Infantry, was killed in the action, 
being twice wounded — once through the lungs and again 
through the foot. He is buried here in Tien Tsin. 

"It being impossible to bring in all the dead, they were buried 
in the trenches where they fell. 

"All the forces engaged spent the night of the thirteenth 
on the ground near the south gate, provisions and water hav- 
ing been sent for by the British brigadier general command- 
ing. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 153 

"During these stirring and anxious times, the condition of 
the besieged legations in Peking was terrible. Continually 
under fire, expecting any moment the entrance of a Chinese 
army too powerful for resistance. A force too small to insure 
long protection worked and excited to a high pitch of anxiety, 
with prospect of early running out of ammunition and food, 
they simply lived for weeks in an atmosphere of hell. Faithful 
Chinese were sent through the lines in numbers, with several 
copies of each message, perhaps only one in half a dozen ever 
reaching us, praying to us at Taku to hurry assistance and 
rescue. These noble commanders, doing all in their power, 
were driven often to weep at the pathos flowing in each mes- 
sage. It seemed to me as I copied these telegrams, that they 
were from the dead, and were, perhaps, the last words Minister 
Conger and others would ever write. This great man and his 
fellows in trouble, carried themselves in a brave manner, and I 
believe it is due largely to Minister Conger's brains and brav- 
ery, as well as those of his defenders that they lived to see "old 
glory" wave over Peking's wall." 

In the simple, brief, descriptive words of the following tele- 
gram, I will lift the curtain disclosing the end, leaving to my 
readers' imaginative power the painting of the scene of rescue. 

"Tien Tsln, August 16, 1900. 
"Captain Wise, Tongku, China. 

"Following official message, from front, just received here: 

' 'Early fourteenth arrived Peking, attacked eastern side 

of city with guns. Enemy on wall resisted strongly during the 

night. Japanese blew in two gates in the east wall, Tartar 



154 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

city, then entered the city; the other forces entered gate of 
Chinese city. Guard was sent, at once to legations; joined at 
legations. All survivors at legations well. Japanese loss over 
one hundred killed and wounded. Enemy's loss four hundred 
killed.' The above telegram came from the Japanese. Our 
losses are not known, but if any probably much less than the 
Japanese. Fighting is said to be going on in the city which is 
said to be burning. This latter information from British 
headquarters. Everything quiet at Tien Tsin. 

"(Signed) W. H. McGeaitn." 

A friend of mine, who visited Peking shortly after the re- 
lease of the legations, and by favor received access to the pal- 
ace of the emperor, who had fled at the approach of the allied 
armies, gives the following description of the emperor and em- 
press dowager's quarters: 

"I have just returned after spending a great part of the day 
in the imperial palace. Having asked permission of the Jap- 
anese, Colonel Sheiba told me that General Wilson and the 
American commissioner, Mr. Rankin, were going to pay a visit 
today, and that it would be a good opportunity for ma to go 
with them. General Wilson kindly allowed me to join his 
party, and my inspection proved most interesting. My pre- 
vious visit had been on the day of the triumphal march through 
to the accompaniment of blaring brass bands and tramping iron 
shod feet ; but today we had an opportunity of wandering about 
at our leisure and of visiting sections of the palace from which 
we had previously been excluded. 

"The private apartments of the emperor, which had been 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 155 

sealed up were opened to us, and also the still more splendid 
suite belonging to the dowager empress. 'Peace, Harmony, 
Repose' was the legend in gold letters over the entrance to the 
emperor's suite. There was a jarring note in the comparative 
vulgarity of a number of European ornaments and the repose 
must have been sadly disturbed if the immense number of 
clocks there were kept going. I counted sixteen clocks in one 
small room. Two of them were working models of horizontal 
steam engines, possibly a present from some foreign 'devil' on 
the lookout for contracts or concessions. There was a wonder- 
ful mechanical toy on the floor of his bedroom, a silver gilt 
elephant harnessed to a car on which were many little figures. 
The harness and back of the elephant were richly studded with 
diamonds and rubies. His bed was comparatively plain and of 
the choicest silk. Everything about the room was in order and 
there was not the slightest sign of neglect or decay which was 
so prevalent as in other parts of the palace. 

"The dowager empress' suite was the finesit of all. Three 
sets of rooms with three court-yards adjoined each other. The 
rooms were fitted with large windows of thick plate glass so 
that one could look right through. There was a rich profusion 
of the most lovely ornaments everywhere. The beauty of ex- 
quisitely carved jade ornaments surpassing everything else. I 
could feel my pockets aching in gaping longing. The old lady 
does not appear to have been so severely stricken with the clock 
mania as the emperor, and contents herself with about half a 
dozen in each room. 



156 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

"After wandering about the 'garden of the white jade flower' 
as it is called, I mounted a sort of rocky eminence, on the top 
of which is a little summer-house-like pagoda. The comp- 
troller of the household told me it was a favorite spot with the 
emperor, where he often went in the evening or early morning. 
From this point no monarch in the world could look upon a 
more beautiful prospect — roofs of gold-like tiles or exquisite 
deep blue and green vistas of carved white marble terraces, 
temples and domes, and a veil of foliage which at a short dis- 
tance hides all the squalor of itihe streets, and stretches like a 
level forest toward the western hills altogether a most remark- 
able sight, which it would be hard to beat. 

"Peking is a beautiful city as seen from any high point of 
view, most beautiful of all from where the emperor sees it." 

On the morning of June fourteenth, after the battel of Tien 
Tsin, I visited the city on official business, finding the streets 
literally covered with Chinese dead. The canals, from which 
allied soldiers dipped their drinking water, flowed putrid with 
the carcasses of the dead. One could walk, in many places, 
some distance on the dead bodies. Mutilation in every con- 
ceivable form multiplied the horrors of the dead. Hundreds 
of dogs feasted upon human flesh. 

On passing up the Pei Ho river en route to Tien Tsin the 
small tug was fired upon. I heard several little hissing noises, 
but, though I had heard bullets before, thought they were noises 
made by the old "rattle-trap" machinery of the tug, until fin- 
ally one struck in the pilot house just in front of me. Then I 
felt no uncertainty. We were being fired upon. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 157 

Lying low behind the gunwale of the tug, six of us opened 
fire upon a small band of probably twenty Chinese, firing at us 
from behind one of the Chinese above ground cave-like graves. 
For about twenty minutes we had it pretty lively, and finally 
routed them. Only one of our party was hit — a slight flesh 
wound in the left forearm. How the Chinese fared is not 
definitely known. This was indeed a narrow escape for those 
of us in the tug, as other Chinese were seen running from the 
neighboring village to assist their comrades, as quick as they 
could get in range, and would soon have had the tug between a 
deadly cross fire, had we not worked quickly with the rifles and 
disconcerted the enemy for a few moments, managed to get 
the tug up the river out of range before the Chinese were suffi- 
ciently reinforced to charge. 



CHAPTER VI. 

VISIT TO AUSTRALIA CROSSING THE EQUATOR SIDNEY MEL- 
BOURNE A CHANCE ACQUAINTANCE ARRIVAL OF THE 

PRINCE OF WALES THE GREAT PROCES- 
SION AT GOVERNMENT HOUSE. 



o 



THE VISIT IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND. 

N" THE MORNING of April 9, 1901, the big tropical sun 

blazed over the low range of mountains back of Manila, 

and pouring his scorching rays down upon the flagships 

Brooklyn and Kentucky, made those great iron monsters seem 

like heated ovens to those of us who belonged between their 

decks. 

The water in the bay lay dead, like an immense sheet of 
glass, reaching for twenty miles to Corregidor at the entrance 
of the harbor where Admiral Dewey sailed in to victory three 
' years before. 

There was a tremendous amount of work to be done that day 
in the office of Rear Admiral Remey, commander-in-chief, U. 
S. naval force on Asiatic station, in preparation for departure 
on the morrow for Australia to which place he had received 
telegraphic orders to proceed with his flagship to participate 
in the celebrations in connection with the opening of the first 
Australian parliament. 

I knew the day would be a trying one, because the business 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 161 

of the greatest naval fleet ever under the command of an Amer- 
ican admiral was to he turned over temporarily to the senior 
squadron commander, Rear Admiral Kempff. 

When I entered the office my head was throbbing and felt 
heavy with the fever of the Philippines, and occasionally I 
found it necessary to stop work a moment when a fit of dizzi- 
ness threatened to render me unconscious and subject me to 
the jeers of my fellow clerks for falling off my chair in a faint, 
as a girl might do. 

Typewriters were clicking about me like a dozen press tele- 
graph instruments. To be more explicit, I was ill; but the 
knowledge of our early departure for a better climate kept me 
up and gave me courage for work that otherwise I could not 
have done. 

Well, we did all that was required, and at ten o'clock the 
nest morning the Brooklyn weighed anchor and sailed out of 
Manila Bay, down through the southern group of the Philip- 
pines, bound for Sidney, IsTew South Wales, Australia. All 
hands were much pleased with the prospect, and I especially; 
for it was then over two years since I had seen much of civili- 
zation. 

Though the scenery in the Philippine Islands is very beau- 
tiful, it interested me but little, as they had long before become 
an old story. 

The flagship took what is known as the inland route, which 
lies through a chain of small islands the entire distance to 
Australia, and, to one who had not already gorged himself with 
such scenery, it was a delightful voyage. Along the northeast 



162 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

coast of Australia our route lay between the mainland and 
great barrier reef, which is considered very dangerous, even 
when an expert pilot is carried. 

The most interesting feature of this trip to me was on the 
equator. At dusk of the evening before crossing the line, King 
Neptune of the sea sent a messenger on board, with a letter 
to the a dmi ral, announcing that he would board us the next day 
to take command of the ship, and, amdd a great clattering of tin 
pans and phosphoric display on the water, the messenger dis- 
appeared. 

For the benefit of those who are not familiar with this ancient 
sea custom, I will remark that when a vessel crosses the equator 
all hands on board, who have not crossed before, are initiated 
by sailors in various ridiculous disguises, who represent them- 
selves as King Neptune and his court, and it is customary for 
the ship to be turned over temporarily to the command of King 
Neptune. After once being initiated you are exempt from fur- 
ther molestation. 

On Sunday, April fourteenth, we reached the equator, and 
all hands prepared themselves for a ducking. King Neptune 
and his court arrived on time, and, with great pomp and cere- 
mony, marched aft on the quarter deck to the admiral and cap- 
tain and demanded that the Brooklyn be turned over to the 
temporary command of Neptune, king of the sea. The dress 
and antics of these sparingly clothed inhabitants of the sea were 
amusing, and in the most polite terms the admiral and captain 
gave carte blanche, so far as sport was concerned. Neptune 
immediately ordered all prisoners released, and all men put on 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 163 

the first conduct class. Preparations having been made early 
in the morning, the fun started at once. 

In a loud voice the official crier of the court commanded : 

"Rear Admiral George C. Remey, commander-in-chief, 
United States naval force on Asiatic station, come before the 
court." 

The admiral announced that he had crossed the line before, 
and was excused. 

"Captain F. W. Dickins, United States navy, commanding 
United States flagship Brooklyn, come before the court." 

Also excused. 

Then the officers were called in order of rank and so on down 
to the crew. 

I was perched on a gun turret congratulating myself on the 
fact that my name appeared very low on the alphabetical list, 
as I figured they would be tired of the sport by the time they 
came to the S's and that I might thus escape; but the ofiicial 
crier happened to look up and see me, so it failed. Calling my 
name loudly he ordered me before the court, and two pilot fish 
(policemen) immediately swept down upon me with orders to 
bring me before the court, dead or alive. I had no time to rid 
myself of clothing but was hustled before the court in no gentle 
manner ; one of the pilot fish holding my collar and the other 
amusing himself by pounding me over the head with a stuffed 
club. 

King ISTeptune asked me if I had ever been in his domain be- 
fore, and I replied in the negative. He then commanded that 
I be shaved, doctored and ducked ; which sentence was immedi- 



164 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

ately carried out. I was placed on a stool and my face plastered 
with a conglomerate mess, the ingredients of which I am un- 
familiar ; then a wooden razor of gigantic proportions was drawn 
over my face, taking some lather and a little skin with it. 
"Next, I was asked if I had ever been ill, but a happy thought 
struck me, and I replied with a nod in the negative, so escaped 
the mouthful of flour, coal dust and salt intended ; then, with 
out any warning, I was toppled backwards into a tank of water, 
where the fish-in-the-tank proceeded to amuse themselves by 
ducking me and beating me over the head with stuffed clubs 
until the next fellow appeared. When I was finally turned 
loose, it was but a sorry figure I made indeed ; however, I have 
a certificate signed by King Neptune himself, so am hereafter 
qualified to take my place either on his staff or as a fish-in- 
the-tank, and entitled to take my revenge on any land-lubber 
that may fall in my hands under like circumstances. 

At four o'clock in the afternoon of April twenty-fifth the 
Brooklyn steamed through the narrow cliff-bound gate into 
the harbor of Sidney. From the outside one sees nothing but 
high rocks, but on passing through the view changes from sky 
and water to beautiful parks and suburban residences sur- 
rounded by green rolling lawns, where beautiful flowers and 
trees vie with fine architecture in the decoration and construc- 
tion of one of the most interesting landscapes I have ever seen. 
Further up the bay in the distance looms the cathedral towers, 
domes and buildings of a magnificent city, of approximately 
500,000 inhabitants, a bustling city of business which leads 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 165 

Australia in commerce and industry, and is the first city in the 
colonies. 

Our entrance was witnessed by hundreds of people on the 
beach and in small boats, who cheered lustily for the Yankees 
and appeared to be greatly pleased with the appearance of our 
great fighting machine. Their welcome did not stop here, for 
all those who went on shore met only with true courtesy and 
hospitality. 

As the ship had only called at Sidney for coal before con- 
tinuing on her voyage 'to Melbourne, the capital, she proceeded 
at once to fill her bunkers. 

The captain's writer and myself obtained ten days leave of 
absence w T ith permission to go by train overland to Melbourne, 
and left on the evening of April thirtieth. We received the 
courtesy of half-fare tickets from the government, which owns 
and operates the railroads. 

Our overland trip will be long remembered as one of the 
most pleasant days of our Australian visit. The run takes 
about seventeen hours, and we found the English side-door com- 
partment trains very comfortable. The little noisy engine car- 
ried us through rocky ravines, fertile valleys, past large sheep 
stations and gold mines at the "terrific" rate of thirty miles an 
hour — terrific for Australians who, unlike we Yankees, prefer 
to travel at a moderate speed and kill no one rather than reach 
a destination quickly. We received every courtesy from the 
trainmen, who like those in Japan could teach our American 
railway employes considerable in the way of attention to trav- 
elers. 



166 AROUND THB WORLD IN THE NAVY 

A very amusing incident occurred during my overland trip 
with the captain's writer, which I will relate here. It will be 
remembered that we had been away from civilization for over 
a year and a half, and that our judgment was, consequently, 
not to be relied upon in social matters. In fact, since we had 
not seen nor talked with a white girl for many months, we were 
somewhat in the position of the lovesick girl, who said "Any 
dude'l do." 

Tad was a good fellow, a thorough chum, and clever, but he 
had a very, very annoying habit — in every affair in which we 
participated he tried to get the best of me. This was all right 
in itself, and interesting, but for one thing — I had the same 
habit ! 

]STow, I cannot say that I was really very fond of Tad, but 
when with him a certain spirit of contest was always preva- 
lent, which gave more than a common interest to the affair in 
hand. The usual affairs in hand concerned young ladies. 

The vessel having touched at Sidney for coal, Tad quietly 
sent in an application for ten days' leave of absence "with per- 
mission to proceed by train overland to Melbourne, rejoining 
the ship at that place." Tad knew I was employed on the staff 
of the comm ancler-in-chief , but hoped that I might not see his 
application. However, I did see it, and "quietly" put in one 
like it. They were granted. 

Two days later as I was buying my ticket for the 7 p. m. 
train I felt a touch on my shoulder and turning saw Tad stand- 
ing in line, evidently for the same purpose as myself. He col- 
ored, but taking the bull by the horns in his customary fashion, 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 167 

laughed and shaking hands with me proposed that we make it a 
party of two. This was agreeable to me, so we were soon sitting 
in a private compartment — having bribed the guard 'to admit no 
one else — sampling some Manila cigars I had brought with me, 
while the fussy little engine thundered away toward Melbourne. 

Tad thought I had a little the best of him thus far and 
warned me to look out for myself in future. I rather enjoyed 
his discomfiture and did not spare him in the least, buti pro- 
ceeded to carefully explain the improbability of his ever being 
•able to get the best of me, etc. 

We had about the most beautiful compartment in the train — 
our uniforms no doubt assisted us in obtaining the favor — and 
were very comfortable until about eleven o'clock when the 
guard came to the door and asked if we would not like a hamper 
of food. Now, that was just what I was wishing for at the mo- 
ment, so, giving him some money, I requested him to "hump 
himself." Tad remarked that it was not necessary to cripple 
the man for life just because I was hungry, that he didn't think 
I really intended to eat the hump. This remark seemed foolish 
to me, so it was simply ignored. 

Presently the guard returned with a full basket of provisions 
— and a young lady ! Not in the basket, but behind the guard, 
and she stood a full head higher than he, as I could see over 
his cap one of the most interesting faces I saw in Australia. 
Taking him by both arms she lifted him bodily to one side 
and stepped into the compartment, bowed very low and ''begged 
pardon, but did we own the whole compartment ?" I suggested 
that, if she was looking for the owner of the compartment, per- 



168 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

haps there was some mistake, that she should call at the gen- 
eral railway offices in Sidney. 

The only apparent reply she made was to toss a fifty pound 
telescope at me, which I verily believe would have tumbled me 
to the floor had I not had presence of rniind to bow very low + o 
her and raise my cap, allowing the grip to pass completely over 
my head. 

She laughed and was preparing to dump the rest of her nu- 
merous boxes on Tad, who as lying on a divan, when he arose 
to the occasion and gave the required bow and welcome. For 
some reason Tad and I suddenly became very attentive and, 
with the very best grace our shaking knees would permit, wel- 
comed her to our compantment and to a share of our dinner. 

She graciously accepted, and, with our assistance, removed 
her long, manish coat, and hat. Then Tad stood like a fool, 
his eyes almost starting out of his head, his mouth open, star- 
ing like a maniac at the most magnificent young woman I ever 
saw or hope to see. Full six feet, if an inch, straight as a 
isoldier, head up, shoulders well back, heels together (I guess), 
her great dark blue eyes sparkling and flashing with amusement 
at Tad's idiotic actions. I don't think she was laughing at 
me! In fact Tad made a regular donkey of himself. I don't 
remember just what I did — so busy looking at her, you know, 
but I know Tad looked like a fool! Perhaps I looked even 
worse than he. 

She must have weighed one hundred and eighty pounds but 
her figure was so symmetrical, so graceful and pleasing to the 
eye, that one would not really have believed it upon a casual 



CO 



rs 3 



o 



p 



3 -a 

3 n> 

X" cr 

3 - 1 




AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 171 

glance. Trying to describe her as she looked there under the 
gaslight, would be, indeed, rain; but I will say that she re- 
minded me of a great wild animal while she looked a most mag- 
nificently sweet young woman. 

She was kind and allowed us to admire her for a few mo- 
ments before a word was spoken, then, with a perfectly mur- 
dering smile, she said, "Gentleman, I trust you will not think 
me altogether a heathen; and I am very grateful, indeed, for 
your kind hospitality. My name is Tui Muhr, a half blood 
native of New Zealand, and I am traveling alone for pleasure. 
I saw you two gentlemen through the window as the train drew 
up and asked the guard to show me into your compartment, 
as I recognized 'the American uniform, and being what you 
call in the United States a 'chum girl,' besides having a great 
regard for Yankees, I just came right in and we may make an 
agreeable party." 

Now, there's where I say Tad did a very, very dirty trick. 
He cooly stepped in front of me, took all the regard for Yan- 
kees, etc., to himself, and appropriated the girl. 

I gave him a dig in the ribs as a reminder that I was still on 
the train but only received a kick on the shin in reply, while 
he seated the lady in one of the two chairs at a small table in the 
compartment and took the other himself. I did not know 
whether to go out and rattle the pump handle, lay down and 
go to sleep or sw r ear. So I did a little of the first and last, 
sleep being out of the question. 

If you had seen the way Tad "chawed" and fumed over that 
girl it would have made you spend the next month out in the 



172 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

woods hate'n yourself for bein' a man. Well, sir, he made a 
regular lobster out of himself! But, what made the whole 
affair worse, she seemed to like it ! 

I couldn't stand that kind of business long, so, as I said 
before, I went out to rattle the pump handle and swear a little. 
Well, I found the guard and gave him a half crown to come 
in, in a few moments, and tell Tad that an English officer 
wanted him in the forward part of the train. It worked ; for 
Tad wanted greatly to show that he was known and was of 
some importance on the train. That was always his weakness, 
and I could usually catch him with such bait. 

As soon as he had left the compartment, I entered, and took 
the vacant chair. Putting on my best smile, I quietly took my 
bearings, gauged the distance, and slowly raising my eyes to 
hers, fired and waited for the explosion. There was none. In 
fact, she seemed to like it, for she never wavered, and for a 
moment there was a terrible current of electricity passing be- 
tween us. Those great eyes seemed to draw me completely 
into them, into another world where all was strange and beau- 
tiful, sweet and true, and where dandelions, bum-lions and lob- 
sters grew by the roadside! 

When she finally let up on me and I got part of my breath 
back, I opened up the whole battery, using armor piercing shell 
and double charges of powder all in this* suggestion — "Say, 
Tui, if you are in for it, we'll get off at the next station, catch 
the parson when he opens the door to let out the cat, and get 
him to marry up before Tabby can "scat." 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 178 

A string of laugh rippled out of her pretty mouth like the 
scale of B-flat as played on a xylophone, and she tossed that 
beautiful silken black head back, for all the world like a wild 
animal, displaying the whitest, soft, round throat imaginable, 
and I noticed there were three tiny wrinkles in it. ISTow, I 
like pretty throats and any girl with wrinkles in her throat 
could, at that time, keep her secrets up my sleeve. 

Well, I saw three wrinkles, and then she piped down and told 
me that Tad had offered the same thing ! And she had half a 
notion to get off at the next station and marry both of us ! 

I smiled and felt positively happy as I said: "Why, Tui, 
Tad couldn't marry you, he has a wife at home !" 

TJmph! She didn't laugh. She looked rather angry, and 
her eyes snapped and glistened like a cat's before breakfast. 

Just then Tad returned and in the most quiet manner pos- 
sible said that I could go now, and that he would "Take the 
chair, please." 

I was preparing an argument on the question, when Miss 
Dick, as she told us she was nicknamed, said to me : "Say, Fat- 
tie, I rather like you, and you are not married so, will you 
please sit still and let me help you to a bit of chicken % Hr. 
Tad is no doubt sleepy by this time." 

I replied that I was not married, and that I was sure Tad 
really needed sleep, as he had been up very much at night 
recently. Tad looked at me "real cross," and I am not sure, 
but I think, possibly, he swore. He saw he was out of it and 
proved himself really a good fellow; he gave it up, and go- 
ing over to the divan laid down, actually going to sleep. 



174 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

By the time he began to snore "Dick" and I were well ac- 
quainted; she told me all about her home in New Zealand, 
about her travels, etc. ; and I told her 'most all I knew of 
America and other countries I had visited. She was the j oi- 
liest chum I ever met. 

She had traveled considerable, and her conversation .proved 
so interesting that hours passed by unnoticed. One would not 
expect a half blood cannibal to be so engaging. 

Well ! In the morning we parted, Dick going on some branch 
line to visit a relative. She did not give me her address but 
said she would write soon. 

Tad and I had a good time in Melbourne during our vaca- 
tion but never for even a moment was Dick's face out of my 
mind. 

We returned on board ship and you can imagine my surprise. 
I had no letter from Dick but Tad came running across the 
deck shortly after our arrival with a letter from her and 
laughed in my face. He showed me the name, and it was from 
Dick. She had written to him and not to me! Nor had she 
even mentioned my name in her letter. 

I told him she must have mixed the names and intended to 
write me but he said if I wasn't so egotistical I might be able 
to understand that the girl could be struck on him instead of 
me. This sounded plausible, so I made no reply but asked very 
meekly if I might see the letter. He said he would see me in 
Manila first, and went his way. 

Well, I felt pretty bad but kept a a stiff upper lip." That 
night he came to me and asked for a couple of Manila cigars to 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVV 175 

send to a friend in Melbourne. It suddenly occurred to nie 
that Dick had requested me to send her some cigars after she 
wrote, as she expected when I last saw her, so I said nothing, 
but went to my office and selected two large ones which were 
wrapped in tin foil. Carefully taking off the wrapper from 
one of them, I prepared a note to fit under it around the cigar, 
as follows: "Whoever opens this cigar, please give this note 
to Miss Tui Muhr at once." In the note I said : "Dear Dick : 
Tad heard from you, I did not. Did you intend to write to 
the fellow who is married and who slept, or was it to me whom 
you called Tattie V If mistake, please wire at once." To this 
I signed my name, then putting the note around the cigar care- 
fully replaced the wrapper and gave the two cigars to Tad. 

The next day I received the following telegram: 

"Mistake, sorry. Come at once without fail if only for a 
day. Lots love. (Sgd) Tui." 

I went, without permission to leave the ship, well know- 
ing that the punishment would probably be to serve a term in a 
cell in chains on bread and water upon my return; but what 
did I care then ! 

Well, that visit will never be out of my mind. It was b r > 
far the happiest two days of my life. She met me at the train 
with a carriage; we went driving. In the afternoon we went 
shooting and I had the pleasure of seeing a woman shoot at a 
hundred yards distance, a rabbit running full speed. She seldom 
missed quail on the wing. There seemed a thousand things she 
could do that girls do not usually perform. She could play the 
piano as well as she could shoot. She said she loved me, and, at 



176 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

the time, I believed her. She may, or may not have, but she said 
so and proved it by her sensible and honest friendship, and I 
would like much to spend another two such innocently happy 
days. 

I left her without either of us promising to write. What 
was the use \ ISTo, we decided to retain only the unsullied mem- 
ory of those two happy days ; to keep in the brain away from 
all contact with the world the memory of it all; to bring back 
in dull days when we are old and, perhaps, friendless this 
thought, to turn it over, and smile at the possession of one little 
secret, the purest of the pure, that is hid away from all else 
but our own hearts. 

Do I know where she is ? !N~o. I do not wish to know. Well, 
I got the best of Tad ! 

Arriving in the capital about 2 p. m. the nest day, we 
at once looked for lodgings and found, as usual, the unexpect- 
ed, — that on account of the celebrations and the visit of the 
Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York, the price of lodg- 
ing and food had gone up to about five times the usual rates ; 
whereas, the usual rate for board and lodging for people in our 
station of life was one pound, ten shillings, or about $7.50 
per week, it had risen to nearly six pounds, or about $30. 
However, after considerable trouble, we managed to find a 
place in which the people were somewhat retired and had not 
tumbled to the boom, where we obtained board and lodging 
for two pounds a week each, and it proved very good ; but the 
lady offered us three pounds the next day to move. [Not us ! 
We had paid our money and proposed to stay, and stay we did. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 177 

Melbourne is a much better laid-out city than Sydney, and 
cleaner, with broad streets and modern improvements, but 
hardly so large as Sydney. It was literally packed with peo- 
ple. Flags, arches and street decorations met the eye every- 
where. At night the decorations were even more beautiful. 
Large sums of money had been expended for illuminating with 
colored electric lights many of the public buildings, and every- 
where one turned a profusion of beautiful designs and colors 
were displayed. 

PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND INSTITUTIONS OF MELBOURNE. 

Public Library } Museum, and National Gallery '\ — This noble 
institution, of which Victorians are justly proud, is situated 
in Swanston street, between Lonsdale and Latrobe streets, and 
is well worth a visit. It is not more than half a mile distant 
from the Minder's street or Prince's railway street, and is 
best reached by the Swanston street tram. It comprises a 
magnificent public library, open daily except Sundays, Christ- 
mas day and Good Friday, from 10 a. m. to 10 p. m. ; the na- 
tional gallery of paintings, sculpture, etc., and the museum, 
both of which are closed at 5 p. m. A day may be well spent 
in this valuable institution; but anything less than an after- 
noon will give the visitor a very imperfect idea of the im- 
mense collection of literature, works of art and scientific speci- 
mens gathered in its numerous galleries. 

Exhibition Building and Aquarium. — Although the main 
purpose of the Exposition building was served in 18S8, when 
it was built to receive the world's display of art and manu- 
factures, it has since been put to a variety of uses, the latest 



178 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

being that of a straight parliament house. Its splendid sport 
arena makes it the favorite spot of athletic gatherings, while 
the extent of its spacious hall readily accommodates four or 
five times as many people as any other building in Melbourne. 
In connection with it the trustees have a magnificent organ 
in the main hall, and in one of the annexes have established an 
aquarium, in which there is a most interesting collection of 
live seals, alligators, fish, birds, etc. The view from the ex- 
hibition dome is one of the sights of the city. 

Parliament House. — Their halls of legislation, familiarly 
spoken of as the "House," at the top of Bourke street, present 
one of the leading architectural features of the city. The im- 
posing approach by a flight of about twenty steps to the grand 
colonnade, which extends across the whole of the front, at the 
present time, gives the remainder of the structure a somewhat 
stunted effect, but it must be remembered that the building 
was still incomplete. When the lofty dome provided for in 
the design is added, the ensemble will leave little to be desired, 
and the Victorian House of Parliament will be probably the 
finest architectural masterpiece in Australia. 

Town Hall. — This elegant structure is in the very heart of 
the city, where its lofty tower is not only an acceptable break 
to the monotony of its purely business surroundings, but its 
clocks serve a useful, practical purpose, for the thousands who 
daily hurry along the crowded streets to the railway station. 
In addition to the offices, the noble hall is the most convenient 
and popular concert room in the city, as well as being the 
largest, excepting the exhibition. At the town hall, his wor- 




Principal Street in Melbourne. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 181 

ship, the mayor, receives persons of distinction, and acts as 
the city's host when special courtesies have to be extended to 
representatives or distinguished visitors. 

General Postoffice. — In this fine building extensive and im- 
portant public business is transacted. The money order busi- 
ness is transacted in a building in an adjacent block owing 
to the excessive amount of work passing through the limited 
space of the postoffice department. The extensive mail room 
on the occasion of a rush of work is thronged with a large staff 
of mail sorters, whose energies are taxed to the utmost to com- 
ply with the exacting demands of the public. Both the postal 
department and the telephone exchange are well worth visit- 
ing. 

The Mint. — The Melbourne branch of the royal mint is an 
interesting place to visit. Next to doing it yourself, one of 
the most engaging sights is that of seeing other people "coin- 
ing money," and the operations at this establishment are both 
instructive and interesting. Proper precautions surround ad- 
mission, but eligible people can obtain permission by writing- 
two days in advance to the deputy master of the mint, who 
will fix the day and hour of the visit. 

The Law Courts are in the same neighborhood and are 
reached by the same tram. To the legal fraternity this fine 
block of buildings possess a special interest, but lay visitors 
will also find the courts well worth a visit. The outlook from 
the dome commands a splendid view of the suburbs and bay. 

The Custom House is convenient to the clocks. On a busy 
day the spacious and elegant "Long Room,'' with its numer- 



182 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

ous staff and crowd of bustling mercantile clerks doing their 
shipping business, affords some idea of the magnitude of the 
trade of the port, which is practically focused in this depart- 
ment. Here also the excise branch of customs work is con- 
ducted. 

The Fish Market. — The very fine buildings of the fish and 
produce market are not only a distinct ornament to the part of 
the city in which they are located, but embody the latest ideas 
of a market for a large city. Sales are conducted daily by a 
limited number of authorized salesmen, through whose hands 
pass the fish, game, oyster and wild fowl business of Melbourne. 
Adjoining the fish market are the city corporation freezing 
works and produce stores. Here the rabbits, poultry, etc., in- 
tended for exportation are frozen, and kept in cool chambers 
preparatory to shipment. The buildings and machinery were 
erected by the Melbourne city council, who control them. 

The Melbourne Athenaeum., which was at one time known 
as the Mechanics' Institute, is the leading reading room and 
lending library of Melbourne, and for a small subscription 
provides valuable accommodation for its patrons. The large 
hall is much used for entertainments and the smaller rooms 
for reading. 

The Stock Exchange, where the share-broking business of 
the metropolis is transacted, is a very fine building. In con- 
nection with it is conducted the Exchange club, whose members 
include many professional and mercantile gentlemen. 

Hotels and Boarding Establishments are too numerous to 
attempt to enumerate; suffice it to say that Melbourne and 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 183 

suburbs abound with comfortable establishments, varied in 
their accommodation to meet the circumstances of their guests. 
A shilling advertisement in a newspaper will always command 
replies to inquiries for accommodation. 

Banks; — There is no lack of financial institutions in Mel- 
bourne, and the buildings in which their business is transact- 
ed are among the finest of the city. They are for the most 
part located on Collins street ; the National Bank and the Bank 
of Victoria and Australian Deposit and Mortgage, between 
Swanston and Elizabeth streets; the Union, Co mm ercial, 
Royal, English, Scottish and Australian, and the Bank of New 
South Wales, between Elizabeth and Queen streets; the Bank 
of Australasia and London Bank, between Queen and Mar- 
ket streets; the Colonial Bank on Elizabeth street, corner of 
Little Collins street, and the Bank of New Zealand on Queen 
street, corner of Elinders lane. The institutions have branch- 
es in suburbs and country. 

Newspapers. — There are two daily morning papers, the 
Argus and the Age; and one evening paper, the Herald. 

Cathedrals and Churches. — The most central place of wor- 
ship in Melbourne is the Anglican cathedral. Its massive and 
chaste interior is in harmony with the architect's perfect de- 
sign of the structure, which, however, requires tower and spire 
and other accessories to enable the spectator to realize what 
the finished building will be. The Boman Catholic cathedral 
— St. Patrick's — holds a commanding position on Eastern hill, 
to the east of parliament house ; and is one of the finest ex- 
amples of architecture in the southern hemisphere. Both 



184 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

cathedrals are supplied with grand organs and peals of bells. 
Other representative churches or denominations have places of 
worship in every portion of Victoria. 

Botanical Gardens. — The out-door resort par excellence of 
Melbourne is the Botanical gardens on the banks of the Yarra, 
about a mile from Prince bridge, and adjoining government 
house grounds and observatory. The extensive and well-kept 
lawns are diversified by artistic kiosks, grottoes and shrubber- 
ies, which, with the vast accumulation of ornamental and use- 
ful plants, gathered from all parts of the world, provide to- 
gether an outing as enjoyable and instructive as the most ex- 
acting could require. The lake, with its picturesque islets, 
adds variety to the scene, and furnishes many interesting 
studies to the amateur photographer and artist. 

During our visit in Melbourne everybody was in the best 
•of humor. The streets were so full that trifles, such as tread- 
ing on toes, nudges in the ribs, etc., only provoked a grimace 
and a laugh. 

Yeomanry and soldiers from New Zealand and Tasmania 
were represented by picked men; each regiment in a different 
uniform. Uniform had the honor of the day. Anybody in 
uniform was "right in it," and we were in uniform. I feel 
that I may state, without appearing to take too much honor 
to myself, that our American uniforms attracted as much at- 
tention as any there; and it was actually difficult to walk the 
streets because of the great number who constantly stopped us 
to tell of their admiration for Yankees, and exchange protesta- 
tions of mutual regard. A gentleman would take hold of 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 185 

your arm, and, apologizing for his rudeness, ask you to come 
in and have a drink, but as we were temperate, he would in- 
sist that we go to dine, to the theatre or anywhere with him, 
so that he might have our company long enough to questiou 
us about America and our ship. It soon became a nuisance, 
but we were indeed glad to find the Yankees so popular. They 
talked much of Yankee ingenuity and pluck, and seemed thirst- 
ing for information of our country. I must say that Austra- 
lians appear to be much better informed about the United 
States than the general run of Americans are about Australia. 
Well, the future king of England and his wife came in the 
royal yacht Ophir. 

THE OPHIR's ARRIVAL. 

The Australian squadron, under Admiral Beaumont, in 
H. M. S. Royal Arthur, expected to meet the Ophir outside 
Port Phillip Heads at 2 p. m. on Sunday. But the Ophir en- 
tered at ten minutes to eleven and the squadron had only got 
as far as the south channel, between Dromana and Sorrento, 
when a great white steamer was seen entering between the 
headlands. The Ophir! exclaimed a chorus of officers. There 
could be no mistaking the royal yacht. Another moment and 
the Royal Arthur was in commotion. A succession of orders 
were given in one breath. Church services were hastily broken 
up. "Dress ship." Instantly the signal flashed along the 
lines and flags ran up to the mastheads. "Hats on," and the 
bluejackets disappeared below to bedeck themselves in their 
best raiment. In a trice they were up again, and "manning 



186 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

ship" — bluejackets along the rails of the upper deck, red- 
coated marines on the bridge, and officers, who had meanwhile 
donned their frock coats, swords and cocked hats, on the quar- 
terdeck. 

By this time the Juno appeared in the wake of the royal 
yacht. The meeting of the fleets was a matter of a few mo- 
ments. The Ophir, with band playing and flags flying — a 
Trinity House ensign at one masthead, the royal standard at 
the other — steamed along at a speed of fifteen knots, and came 
abeam the Royal Arthur just south of the pile light. It was 
an exciting moment. Along the line, on port and starboard, 
the guns of the Australian squadron thundered forth the royal 
salute, while the band of the flagship broke into the strains of 
the national anthem. The Ophir and her attendant ships 
came to anchor off Mornington. 

The quietly dressed figure that appeared on the Ophir s 
bridge did not require a second look to be recognized as his royal 
highness, the Duke of Cornwall and York, whom many people 
still remember as "Prince George." His royal highness wore a 
naval uniform and looked every inch a sailor prince. The 
traces of his recent illness were still to be found in his face, 
which, though bearing the burnished livery of the sun and 
the sea, might be a little fuller. Still, the well set up figure, 
the springy walk and the evident zest with which the prince 
entered into conversation with the members of hig. suite and 
smoked cigarettes, bespoke a robustness which it will be grati- 
fying to Australians to think that the long voyage out here 
has brought him. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 187 

Not far away from the king's son and at the head of the 
gangway, stood a lady who appeared particularly interested 
in all that was transpiring. It was the "Princess May/' in a 
plain, close-fitting black costume, with a handsome black 
feather boa around her neck and a dainty white sailor straw 
hat, the band of which bore the letters "H. M. S. Ophir" The 
Duchess of Tork might have stepped out of one of the thousands 
of photos of hers that had been sold in Melbourne during the 
past week, and she looked all that has been written about 
her, gracious, kind, approachable, but withal royal. 

Their royal highnesses were in the best of spirits, both of 
them having enjoyed exceedingly good health since leaving the 
tropics. Unpleasant, enervating weather was experienced while 
crossing the equator and for some days afterwards, but on ap- 
proaching the coast of western Australia, cool southerly breezes 
were met with. The trip across the Australian bight was an 
enjoyable one, smooth seas prevailing, and while the weather 
was cold, the air was invigorating. 

After the Ophir came to anchor she was boarded by the ad- 
miral. Subsequently the South Australian gunboat, Protector, 
arrived with the governor general and Lady Hopetoun. They 
dined with their royal highnesses on the Ophir, as did the ad- 
miral and his officers. The governor general and Lady Hope- 
toun returned to town, while the Duke and Duchess of Corn- 
wall stayed on board for the night, to steam up to St. Kilda the 
next morning. The selection of Mornington as an anchoring 
station was a happy idea, as the coast is there bold and pictur- 
esque, with Mt. Eliza and Mt. Martha in the background. 



188 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 



THE SCENE ON THE BAY. 



An early start was made from Mornington, and long before 
eleven o'clock there loomed out of the fog the royal yacht and 
her attendants, the St. George, Juno, Royal Arthur, Mildura, 
Wallaroo and Ringarooma. There was evidently a desire that 
there should be no hitch in the arrangements, and long before 
midday the Ophir was safely at anchor. As the huge yacht 
steamed up the bay, it was noticed that she was flying a strange 
flag. It was a birthday tribute, from the heir to the throne 
of England to the dowager empress of Russia, and the Russian 
flag flew from the masthead of his ship. The other war vessels, 
quick to notice the flag, joined in the welcome and fired a sa- 
lute in honor of the event. 

The Ophir took up her anchorage midway between Port Mel- 
bourne and Williamstown, and the war ships lay grouped around 
her. In shore the Hansa and Kormoran represented Ger- 
many, while next to them, the Noord Brabant flew the Nether- 
lands flag. Over toward Williamstown the Cerverus and the 
South Australian gunboat, Protector, rode at anchor. On the 
seaward side of the Ophir lay the Royal Arthur, then the Juno, 
Ringarooma, St. George and Wallaroo. Standing out boldly 
in her white paint, the BrooMyn came next, and the Mildura 
lay between her and the Russian ship, the Gromoboi, which 
was the furthest out. It was a grand sight to see those huge 
ships lying there, all summoned to take part in the making 
of a nation's destinies and a welcome to the eldest son of the 
king of England. 



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AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 191 

The paddle steamer, Hygeia, which had been deputed to con- 
vey their royal highnesses to the St. Kilda pier, ranged up 
beside the Ophir soon after she anchored. With the first 
revolution of her paddles there burst from the port side of the 
Royal Arthur a puff of smoke, and instantly the other war 
ships took up the signal, and the firing of the salute of twen- 
ty-one guns had begun. It was a magnificent sight. From the 
masthead floated the royal standard and the vessel was gaily 
decorated with bunting. Under an awning aft the funnel 
comfortable seats had been placed, and there the duke and 
duchess sat and watched the approach to St. Kilda. Under 
the control of Commander Richardson, of the Victorian navy, 
and navigated by her regular master, Captain Patrick, the 
Hygeia steamed gently across the bay. The yachts, which had 
been swarming around the Ophir from the time she anchored, 
set sail across the water, but they were soon outstripped, and 
though the Hygeia had to swing round into the bight by Port 
Melbourne, sq as to obtain a straight run into the St. Kilda 
pier, the yachts had no chance of getting across quickly. 
Slowly Captain Patrick drew the Hygeia up to the pier, and 
when all had been made taut, his royal highness, dressed as a 
British admiral, stepped forward with the Duchess of Corn- 
wall and York and to the strains of "God Save the King/' 
walked ashore to receive the official and public welcome of 
Australia. 

THE LANDING. 

Under the cloudless sky the St. Kilda pier was a very pretty 
sight. Its great length was emphasized by a crimson carpet 



192 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

running along the center from end to end, and rows of masts 
from which brightly colored penants flew. The shelter shed 
was made quite beautiful. Midway was a handsome arch 
erected by the St. Kilda yachtsmen, and at the place of land- 
ing a canopy which was festooned and draped. The esplan- 
ade and its stands were thronged with people, and every win- 
dow commanding a view of the scene was occupied. Then, on 
the bay side, were the royal yacht OpMr and all the war ships 
and smaller crafts that took part in the landing ceremony. 
The pier was lined on each side by the Victorian permanent 
artillery and the first battalion infantry brigade. It was just 
five minutes to two when the royal visitors walked down the 
gangway from the paddle steamer Hygeia and were received 
by his excellency, the governor general. This was signalized 
by cheers of welcome. His excellency at once presented to 
their royal highnesses, Mr. E. Barton, Prime Minister of 
the Commonwealth; Sir William Lyne, Minister of the Home 
Department; Sir George Turner, Treasurer, and others. His 
royal highness wore the uniform of an admiral and the Bib- 
'bon and Order of the Garter, and the duchess was dressed in 
black and carried a bouquet of orchids and violets. When the 
royal party had passed under the arch, they halted for a 
moment, and Lieutenant Colonel Hughes, mayor of St. Kilda, 
was presented to them and handed to her royal highness a 
large bunch of orchids. It was just twenty minutes past two 
when their royal highnesses and Lord Wenlock were seated 
>in the semi-state landau on the lower esplanade. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 193 

FEOM ST. EXLDA TO THE CITY. 

'A strip of scarlet and gold flashed against the royal blue 
of the sky told the dense black mass of people who had gath- 
ered on the foreshore opposite the St. Kilda pier, that the 
royal carriage was mounting on the upper esplanade. While 
on the lower esplanade the procession was hidden from the 
view of those on the street level, and the watching for its first 
appearance heightened the excitement. People swarmed all 
over the great buildings facing the sea, until they looked like 
a rugged range of humanity; on the high peaks hundreds 
of bright banner^ had been planted. The huge sea- 
wall dividing the lower from the upper esplanade was crowned 
with men, women and children, and the egg-shaped space be- 
tween the junction of the two esplanades and Fitzroy street 
was a solid mass, in which it would have been impossible to 
crowd a sparrow. As the royal visitors came into full view 
the pent-up enthusiasm of the crowd was loosened. Those who 
had seats jumped to their feet, heads were bared, flags, hand- 
kerchiefs and hats waved and fluttered in the sunlight and a 
mighty cheer echoed along the shore. This tumult whetted 
the expectancy of the crowd further on in Fitzroy street. There 
rhey were from ten to thirty deep on each side of the route. 
The street was lined with one of the infantry brigades, and 
the white helmets of the soldiers made a snowy fringe to the 
enormous black carpet of the crowd. The crowd never made 
a mistake. Everybody had taken the trouble to learn the 
exact position of the royal carriage in the procession, and 



194 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

they waited and watched for its appearance. Everywhere the 
same hearty cheers greeted the duke and duchess. The sound 
of thundering voices was never for a second allowed to di- 
minish in volume. 

At the intersection of Fitzroy street and St. Kilda road 
the cities of St. Kilda and Prahan had erected an imposing 
arch. Tremendous applause went rolling down St. Kilda road 
as their royal highnesses made their way beneath. The 
shouts of joy were taken up by the two immense lines of peo- 
ple — in some places fifteen deep — which reached all the way 
to Princess Bridge. On leaving the St. Kilda arch the order 
was given to "trot march." Hundreds of people had taken 
up positions on St. Kilda road four or five hours before the 
arrival of the procession. Some of them had provided them- 
selves with stools and chairs and most of them brought their 
luncheon. The streets at right angles to the road were com- 
pletely blocked with vehicles, filled with eager and enthu- 
siastic people. Many of the fine houses along St. Kilda road 
were beautifully decorated, streamers and lines of flags having 
been stretched from the ornamental trees in the grounds at- 
tached. 

The quick pace was maintined until the Domain was reached. 
At that point a very pretty sight had been prepared for their 
royal highnesses. The slope of the Domain from one end 
to the other had been entirely covered with Sunday-school 
children. They were thirty-five thousand strong, and standing 
beneath the fresh green trees they made a charming picture. On 
the approach of the royal carriage the children sang "God Save 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 1S5 

the King/' and "God Bless the Prince of Wales,'' under the 
leadership of Mr. Davies, who was perched upon a very high 
stand, from whence he could be seen by the singers. The royal 
carriage instantly slowed down to a walking pace, and then, 
the singing quite finished, the children piped their glad hur- 
rahs and waved the forest of tiny union jacks. The scene 
appeared to please their royal higneases, who bowed their 
acknowledgments. 

the countess' pavilion. 

A neat and commodious pavilion was specially erected by 
the public works department on St. Kilda road, opposite the 
entrance to Government House, for the use of her excellency, 
the Countess of Hopetoun, the wives of the state governors, 
and the staff of his excellency, the governor-general. Shortly 
after three o'clock his excellency, the governor-general, at- 
tended by Captain K. W. Duff, A. D. C, rode from St. Kilda 
pier (where they had been receiving their royal highnesses) 
through Albert Park to St, Kilda road, and thence along the 
route of the procession to the pavilion. As the carriage of their 
royal highnesses came opposite his excellency the governor- 
general saluted, and the Countess of Hopetoun and all the 
ladies in the pavilion rose from their chairs and courtesied, 
while the visiting naval officers, and those of his excellency's 
staff who were in the pavilion saluted. Their royal high- 
nesses seemed specially pleased with the reception accorded 
them, and returned their courtesies with a genial bow. There 
was no stoppage of the procession at this point. The royal car- 



196 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

riage was merely slowed down as it passed the pavilion. The 
governor-general and the Countess of Hopetoun and party 
waited .till the procession had passed, and then his excellency 
rode to government house, while her excellency walked hither, 
accompanied by Captain Wallington and Mrs. Corbet. 

ENTERING THE CITY. 

It was just three o'clock as the troopers who preceded the 
royal procession reached the Princess Arch, and a few min- 
utes afterwards a sound of distant cheering announced the 
approach of the duke and duchess. The duke's carriage hav- 
ing halted in front of the platform, Mrs. Gillott, Mayoress of 
Melbourne, handed to her royal highness the Duchess of 
Cornwall and York, a handsome bouquet, with sprigs of maid- 
enhair and asparagus ferns. The bouquet rested in a holder 
of gold, set with opals, to which were fastened two white 
streamers, beautifully hand-painted. 

The duchess accepted the bouquet, and leaning forward, 
thanked the mayoress for her gift. An addess of welcome was 
then presented by the mayor and council of Melbourne to the 
Duke of Cornwall. 

THROUGH THE CITY. 

The line of march through the city was up Swanston street, 
along Collins istreet and Spring street to parliament house, 
down Burk street to Williams street, and thence via Collins 
street back to Swanston street, and home to government house. 
Throughout almost the whole route there were unbroken lines 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 197 

of spectators. Buildings were draped with flags, stands, roofs, 
and windows occupied high placed spectators, the roadway kept 
by troops, the foot-paths occupied by the public. At inter- 
vals the procession passed under special arches— the King's 
arch in Swanston street; the Queen Victoria arch, the Duke's 
arch, the Butter arch, the German arch, the Manufacturer's 
arch, etc. 

The magnificent carriage horses, bright with scarlet pad 
clothes and scarlet streamers, and jingling with rich gold-plated 
harness, performed their task with quiet decorum. The pos- 
tilions in all the bravery of scarlet, blue and gold, sat in 
their saddles like statues, and the whole equipage arrested the 
eye by its shear brilliancy and splendor. Yet it was not the 
equipage itself but the occupants that the eyes rested upon, 
instinctively passing by all details and accessories to search 
the features of the personage who represents for all Australia 
the living embodiment of that principle of constitutional mon- 
archy, which has done so much for Australia, and for which 
she, too, has suffered in these later days. The slight figure, 
and the delicate face, glowing with a flush of pleasure at the 
warmth and evident spontaneity of the welcome which was 
shouted to him from the very housetops, rivets the gaze of the 
spectator. Ever and anon his royal highness, who was dressed 
in the uniform of a British admiral, lifts his hand to his 
cocked hat in graceful salute to the cheers of the multitude. 
Beside him sits a lady in deep black, whose face is ^familiar to 
all through her portraits. She is alert to all around her, 
keen to observe, and quick to appreciate. Ever and anon she 



198 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

draws the attention of his highness to some feature of the 
decoration or some specially enthusiastic outburst of cheering, 
and bows, not only to the people on the sidewalk, but to those 
in the raised stands, and even to the eager watchers who clap 
their hands and wave their handkerchiefs in the topmost win- 
dows. In the demeanor of the royal pair geniality and deep 
human sympathy are written large for all to read. 

In Spring street, on the left-hand side, the great hotels were 
bright with many-colored bunting, and from the roof of one 
of them a long festoon of flags swung out in a graceful curve 
before the grateful breeze that came to temper the summer 
heat of the sun. On the right was the stately pile of parlia- 
ment house, fringed with a line of tall and w T aving ferns 
that divided the steps from the roadway, and crowded on steps 
and terraces, at windows and on parapets, with the guests who 
had come, from far and near to be present at these celebra- 
tions. As the royal carriage passed loud cheers broke from 
the occupants of all the balconies and grandstands and from 
the dense masses of people who blackened the steps of parlia- 
ment house. Here were gathered the prime minister and his 
ministers of state, who had come back hotfoot from the land- 
ing place to see their royal highnesses go past the home of 
the federal parliament place. Here also were officers in 
strange uniforms, admirals and captains and lieutenants from 
the war ships of those great powers that had dispatched their 
cruisers on a voyage of many thousands of miles to carry greet- 
ings and congratulations to the young nation which is even now 
stepping forward to join them in the councils of the world. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 201 

From the point of view of a piece of organization, nothing 
could have been more successful than the arrangement of this 
procession. All arms of the defense forces of Australia were 
represented, and the parade must have brought home to many 
the extent and variety of the troops at the disposal of the fed- 
eral minister of defense. ]STew features of interest, too, met 
the royal pair at every turn. As the royal carriage wheeled 
into Williams street, the cadets came in view, parading over 
four thousand strong, a solid body of alert, determined lads, 
the foundation of splendid war material in the future, for the 
cadet of today is the veteran of tomorrow, as the records of 
South African campaign can testify. Then, as the procession 
turned into Collins street, the stately line of the great thor- 
oughfare showed a long perspective festooned with flags and 
banners, and, best of all, filled from end to end with faces that 
smiled down in a welcome that could not be misunderstood. 
Passing under the graceful German arch with its warm and 
kindly greeting, the royal visitors turned into Swanston street, 
and after crossing the bridge, proceeded at a trot to govern- 
ment house, the various detachments finding their way back 
to camp by the shortest route. The great ceremonial of the 
day *was over. 

AT GOVERNMENT HOUSE. 

At government house his royal highness inspected the 
guard of honor, accompanied by Lord Hopetoun. Each of the 
military commandants was then presented to the duke, and 
immediately after the same honor was bestowed upon Colonel 
Hoad, chief of the staff. 



202 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

The duke expressed himself as highly gratified with the 
whole of the arrangements in connection with his reception, 
and the procession, and all with the successful carrying out 
of all the details. 

The inspection and presentation did not occupy more than 
three or four minutes, and their royal highnesses then en- 
tered government house, followed by the governor general and 
the Countess of Hopetoun and the members of the suite of the 
royal visitors who had by this time left their carriages. As the 
duke crossed the threshold the royal standard was hoisted on 
the tower, notifying that his residence was there for the 
present, and the battery on the government domain fired a roy- 
al salute of twenty-one guns. This concluded the proceedings, 
and the naval forces then formed into fours, and headed by 
their band, marched off to quarters. 

On the first day of the Brooklyn's visit in Melbourne there 
was such a dense crowd on the pier trying to come on board 
this great fighting ship, that, in their eagerness to hurry over 
the gang-way, thirteen ladies were crushed to insensibility 
and had to be carried on board and immediately attended by 
the ship's doctor. This occurred nearly ever day of her stay 
alongside the dock. They certainly showed us a royal wel- 
come, and nothing seemed to be too good for the Yankees. 

We made good use of our opportunities, throwing ourselves 
into the mad rush for pleasure with a will ; and all hands were 
sorry when the Brooklyn steamed out of the harbor for Auck- 
land, New Zealand. 



CHAPTEK VII. 

NEW ZEALAND THE MAORI WONDERLAND ROTORUA WHAK- 

AREWAREWA HEALTH RESORTS OF NEW ZEALAND RE- 
CEPTION OE THE HINGIS SON AT ROTORTJA A 

GREAT MAORI GATHERING. 

THE BEITISH COLONY of New Zealand lies two or 
three days' sail to the eastward of Australia. It was orig- 
inally inhabited by cannibal tribes called Maoris, v ho have 
been gradually elevated to a higher plane of civilization, and 
are said to be the most intelligent people of Australasia. They 
are above the average in size, very energetic and intelligent. 
Many handsome boys and girls may be found among their 
tribes, and I should term them the most interesting savages 
under cultivation of Europeans. 

New Zealand is only about forty years old in civilization, 
but, with the aid of an excellent government and the indomi- 
table energy of her people, she has already reached a state 
of civilization which, considering the difficulties under which 
she has labored, is commendable. 

Europeans from England, Australia and America make up 
the bulk of white inhabitants. Intermarriage, however, has 
resulted in a considerable per cent of half and quarter blood 
natives, who are extremely comely and intelligent. 



204 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

The soil is productive, and they are blessed with a fine cli- 
mate. Among the valuable productions of New Zealand are 
gold, silver, coal, timber, wool, flax, corn, oats, wheat and 
beef. Little pork is produced. 

Auckland lies on North Island, and is a pretty little city 
of perhaps 40,000. It also possesses the advantage of a fine 
harbor, as well as other great natural advantages. The moun- 
tains back of the town form a pretty frame for this most 
interesting landscape. But so quiet did it seem after the hur- 
ry and crowds of Melbourne that some of the sailors suggested 
among themselves that it would be a good thing for the admiral 
to fire an extra salute, in order to awaken the people. How- 
ever, they proved later to be fully awake, and made our visit 
a very pleasant one. 

The Salvation Army has a great hold in New Zealand, and 
one cannot, I understand, even drive a vehicle through the 
streets on Sunday because of the noise it would make. They 
certainly have made Auckland a quiet city and a moral one. 

After a few days' stay in Auckland, the flagship came down 
the coast to Wellington, another nice little city of about the 
same number of people, situated at the southern extremity of 
the same island. Here we were treated in the usual hospitable 
manner and enjoyed our stay very much. While Wellington 
has not the natural advantage of a fine harbor that adds so 
much to the beauty of Auckland, it is a very promising Uttle 
city, and there is great rivalry between them. 

A great part of New Zealand contains rich farming land. 
This little country is rising rapidly in importance. The peo- 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 205 

pie greatly admire and imitate the Yankee. A leading citi- 
zen, who asked my opinion of New Zealand, appeared well 
pleased with the reply that it was a charming place an which 
to live, but had one dark blot upon its character — the whip- 
ping post. He agreed with me, and said that a "move" was 
being made to abolish it. 

New Zealand is famous for its many health resorts. A 
great number of mineral, hot and cold springs, as well as 
several hot mud baths are situated in her boundaries. Among 
them are Rotorua and Whakarewarewa, two favorite places of 
all visiting tourists. 

ROTORUA. 

This township consists of the government portion ( Rotorua 
containing sanatarium and hospital, and Ohinemutu, the orig- 
inal native village. The points of interest are : First, the gov- 
ernment sanatarium, situated in beautiful grounds and con- 
taining curative baths — Priest's bath for gout, rheumatism;, 
sciatica ; Rachel's bath, for psoriasis, eczema ; Painkiller bath, 
for chronic rheumatism, parasitic diseases of skin ; Postmas- 
ter bath, — action that of a modified mustard plaster. Second, 
the Maori pah, containing whares and runanga houses, hot 
springs, steam jets, and boiling mud holes ; near Rotorua are 
the celebrated cold water springs, Hamarana and Tikitere, 
familiarly termed The Inferno of these regions. 

WHAKAREWAREWA. 

This native settlement, the real center of wonderland, is 
nearly .two miles from Rbtorua. It is mainly bounded by Pua- 



206 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

renga Stream. Passing over the bridge the tourist may select 
as a guide one of the bright-eyed Maori girls who offer to con- 
duct him. The spoti to attract attention is the great ngawha 
■or cooking pool, named Parekohuru, a circular crater full of 
boiling, transparent, cerulean water. This pool, the Maoris 
say, "is as deep and unfathomable as a woman's heart." Pro- 
ceeding on the visitor reaches two large pools of warm water, 
which are generally alive with Maori men, women and children, 
some of the latter squatting at ease on the brink ready to dive 
for coins. A little farther on is a violently turbulent spring, 
Korotiotio, which overflows and fills the adjacent reservoir, 
from which the oil bath draws its supply. Passing on by nu- 
merous bubbling mud pots and clouds of sulphurous steam, the 
traveler approaches the center of this wonderful scene of wild 
thermal activity, and surmounting a gentle rise, reaches the 
Geyser Plateau. Here are situated the wonderfully shaped 
Brain Pot, the peerless refractory Wairoa Geyser, which throws 
a perpendicular column of water 150 feet, "in spite of prohibi- 
tory parliamentary decree." A few yards further will be seen 
the Twin Geyser, the immense Pohutu Geyser, and others of cor- 
responding interest. 

At the time of our visit the people of New Zealand had. 
been preparing for some time to receive the Duke and Duchess 
of Cornwall and York. There was general excitement in an- 
ticipation of this event. The Maoris were preparing to receive 
them at Eotorua and entertain them in true Maori stvle. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 207 

ROTORUA DECORATED TO RECEIVE ROYALTY. 

Wet mists enfolded the soft green wooded peaks of Mokoai, 
the "Sacred Island of Tinirau," set in the still waters of Ko- 
torua, and wreathed in heavy, fleecy clouds, the adjacent bush 
ranges, when I paid my preliminary visit of inspection to the 
great Maori assemblage on the racecourse, which lies midway 
between Rotorua township and the Geyser Valley of "WLak- 
arewarewa. Rotorua in midsummer is chiefly remarkable for 
its enexhaustible supply of dust. Just then the most noticeable 
feature of the township and its surroundings was the all-per- 
vading mud. The skies had swept over the assembling tribes 
for the last week. But, given a spell of dry, clear weather, the 
midwinter season in Rotorua is said to be far pleasanter than 
the summer period. I have seen the lake for days at a time 
a motionless sheet of polished silver under a cloudless sky, its 
surface unrippled by the faintest breath, with the classic isle 
of Mokoai rising like a glorious emerald from the shining 
waters. Such, however, was not the aspeor of the Rotorua-Nui- 
a-Kaku at the time of writing. 

It is hard to put in words the color, the animation, and 
babble of sounds which are some of the things that strike 
one at this great congress of over four thousand people of the 
native race, representing every tribe in 'Mew Zealand, from 
the North Cape to Otago. It was a good deal larger, I was 
■told, than the great gathering held at Taupiri in 1894, at the 
Tangi over King Tawhiao, and is also a very much larger af- 
fair than the important meetings hold at Kopua and Hiku- 
rangi in 1878 and 1879, between Sir George Grey and the 



208 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

Kingites. In fact, there are only two meetings v.hich will at 
all compare with it — the E-emuera gathering of 1844, when the 
might of Waikato, under the redoubtable cannibal warrior Te 
Whero-whero, made such a martial display that the white pop- 
ulation of the infinite capital trembled, and the conference of 
tribes at Kohimarama in 1860. But this Eotorua "hui" of 
1901 outshines them all, and will be remembered in nine to 
come as the last great combined display in force in the New Zea- 
land native race. In the symbolic language of the Maori, the 
"Waitai," has come to meet the "Wai-Maori," the salt coast 
dwellers have journeyed to greet the "fresh-water tribes," the in- 
land people of the soil ; pilgrims to a Geyser-land Mecca. It is a 
fitting occasion, too, in the Maori eye, for the tribes from east 
and west and north and south to meet on common ground, for 
the visit of the Great White Queen's "mokopuna," is the event 
of a life-time; the sons of the soil liken the duke to the pro- 
verbial "iKotuku-Kerenga-Tahi," the rare white crane, whose 
flight is seen but once and no more in the span of one's life. 
The old order of things had been temporarily revived at this 
"hui." On the wide racecourse flat we saw the old Maori cos- 
tume, the ancient weapons, — "rakau maori,"i — the savage- 
looking tattooed faces of historic Aotearoa. Centuries old songs, 
snatches of weird incantations, dating back to the legendary 
Hawaiiki, of the thousand isled south seas, are heard as the 
long severed tribes greet each other, and the orators pace up 
and down, spear in hand, and leap into the air and pour forth 
poetical greetings, as in the days of old. Yet it is a curious 
mingling of the old and new. Deeply tattooed warriors, whose 




Uncle Sam is Trying to Educate these Pickaninnies. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 211 

memories go back to the cannibal era, who, have, as it w T ere, 
hardly emerged from the stone age, sit side by side with young 
bloods who ride bicycles and pound the big drum in the vil- 
lage brass band. The attire of the people is a wonderful mix- 
ture, too. A great many are dressed in the height of pakeha 
fashion and some sport frock coats and bell-toppers, mats of 
flax and feathers abound, many of them very fine examples 
of Maori 'garments, and thrown over the shoulders or worn 
around the waist, they give just the touch of picturesqueness 
which is needed to redeem the costume from the associations of 
European stores. But the ladies' dresses certainly cannot be 
called prosaic or commonplace. They are all colors imagin- 
able ; a pakeha ballet or a pantomime is nothing to a Maori 
"hui," when the softer sex give their boxes a holiday. 

The encampment itself forms a sort of a great semi-circle 
on the eastern side of the racecourse, and separated from the 
cleared ground in front of the roval grandstand bv a wide belt 
of very short manuka scrub. The one wide and long street is 
flanked on either side by many scores of tents, and by large 
raupo wharves, and from the main avenue branch ofl various 
small lanes forming the divisions between the camps of the 
various tribes. Some hapus are housed in large marquees, oth- 
ers are detached in sections, like a regiment of soldiers in line, 
or a square of bell tents ; others make themselves at home in 
the fami^'ar raupo huts, and all are happy, merry and good 
tempered. 

Every Maori tribe in ISTew Zealand has its representatives 
here; some in hundreds, others in smaller parties There must 



212 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

be close on four thousand people in the encampment, besides 
the numerous hapus of the Arawa tribe, whose quarters are 
Ohinemutu and Whakarewarewa, and who as the "tangata- 
whenua,'' the people of the place, share with the government 
the responsibility of entertaining the visitors. From the north 
cape to Otago the tribes all have their delegates here to join 
in welcoming their heir to the throne ; and the food supplies they 
have brought with them are as varied as the localities of the 
tribes. Tons of potatoes, kumaras, shellfish, droves of cattle 
and pigs, flocks of sheep, are there to feed the hungry multi- 
tude. Then there are various delicacies peculiar to particular 
districts, potted pigeons and wild duck from the Taupo district 
and the forests of Tuhoe land ; Taro from the semi-tropical far 
north, and preserved mutton birds from the south island. A 
great pile of a couple of hundred tons of firewood was stacked 
on the far side of the ''marae," close to the store sheds, where 
the permanent force men were busily engaged serving out the 
government's share of the provision to the tribes ; and at the 
rear of each tribe's lines were the out of door cooking quarters, 
where scores of boilers and native "hangis" (the primitive 
earth ovens) were going continuously. 

THE TYPES OF THE PEOPLE, 

in this great marae are a deeply interesting study. Every 
tribe, from the Aopouri in the far north to the Mgaitahu who 
dwell in the cold "wai-pounamu," are here, and the differences 
in the facial and physical type would give much food for spec- 
ulation to an ethnologist. The wiry, alert looking ISTgatiporou 
from the East Cape stands up to Eaka side by side with a big, 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 213 

jolly faced, but somewhat soft looking ISTgatikahungunu sheep 
owner from Hawke's Bay, and the Wairarapa, and the quick 
eyed, small built men of the Whanganui river exchanged 
laughing salutations with their old Hauhau enemies from 
Opotiki and Whakatane, the active dancers of Whakatohea and 
JSTgatiawa. One of these Whangamuis has an almostMongolian 
cast of countenance. Here and there one catches a glimpse 
of a true Jewish type of nose; that tall, curly haired man 
with a Semitic cast of countenance is a ISTgaiterangi from down 
Tauranga way. A curious type is the "TTrukehu," or fair 
haired, pure blooded Maori ; the reddish tinge in the luxuriant 
tresses of the "Urukehu" woman is a relic of a very ancient 
aboriginal strain, whose source is lost in mystery. When it 
comes to "action front" and the men stripped for the dances 
of rehearsal for the duke, or for the daily welcome to visitors, 
one sees what fine physiques the Maori race can show. The 
Whanganui and ISTgatiapa men are on the small side, but ex- 
ceedingly well developed, and as active as deer; the Ngaci- 
kahungunu on the other hand are more dignified and slow in 
their movements, but show magnificent torsos. Maori women 
do not display so much of their charms as do their cousins, 
the belles of the South Sea Islands, so we must confine our- 
selves to the faces, which are even more varied in their local 
distinctiveness than the men's. Some faces (especially those 
of the young half-caste girls) are as finely molded as those of 
the high born "taupos" of Samoa; others have the flat nose 
and thick lips inclining to the Papuan. Some real beauties 
there are among the younger girls; large eyed, oval faced 



214 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

creatures, with their shawls draped around their heads, like 
pictures of Spanish ladies in their mantillas, but all, young 
and old, swinging along with that peculiar swaggering roll 
of the hips which is characteristic of the wahine Maori — 
born perhaps of generations of training in the movements of 
the haka. The ladies of rank bear themselves like duchesses, 
conscious of their long ancestral lines, and they sail majes- 
tically along with something like haughty scorn expressed in 
the curl of their liberal lips and the tilt of their blue tattooed 
chins. 

Many of the highest chiefs in the land are here. There is 
the young Te Heuheu, high chieftain of the Lake Taupo peo- 
ple, a handsome, well built man of thirty-five, whose flashing 
eye and proud bearing proclaim him a "tinorangatira," a chief 
indeed. Te Heuheu is an excellent type of the best meni of 
the modern Maori ; intelligent, educated and combining with 
his European knowledge a deep pride in his noble pedigree 
and the records of his illustrious ancestors. For the Heuheu 
can rehearse his genealogical table back forty generations' — a 
thousand years — away into the hazy mists of the past, when 
his "Tupunas" dwelt in the warm summer isles of the great 
Ocean of Kiwa. Hie has demigods on his family tree ; he has 
even a family guardian— atua or god, by name, Rongomai, 
whose outward form is that of a shooting star. The proverb 
of his tribe, the Ngatituwharetoa, has it : "Rongomai is the 
god; Te Heuheu is the man." And again, in the symbolical 
phraseology of the lakemen : "Tongariro is the mountain ; 
Taupo is the sea; Te Heuheu is the man." These high sound- 



AROUND THB WORLD IN THE NAVY 215 

ing sayings were applied to Hauhau's famous grandfather, 
Te Heuheu, the Great, who was a man-eating warrior of dread 
renown, who figures in Angas' rear sketches secured nearly 
sixty years ago, and who perished with fifty of his tribe in 
the land slip at Te Rapa, Taupo, in 1846. Amongst the other 
prominent chiefs one sees here in the broad camp square are 
A. T. Ngata, Reverend Mohi Turei, R. Kohere and Te Hou- 
kamau, of the East Cape district ; and Taonui, and many an- 
other man of rank with pedigrees which go back into the dark 
ages. 

THE WELCOME OF THE DUKE. 

A noteworthy feature of the reception tendered the duke 
were the numerous striking songs, war chants, ballads and 
other poetical compositions of the tribes, some breathing the 
fierce spirit of Tu-mata-uenga, the angry faced god of war, 
others in a lighter vein which were sung by the various divi- 
sions of the Maori people. In their tangi songs, "Apakuras" 
for the dead queen, they make touching reference to the pass- 
ing away of Wikitoria, their great "Takairu-Ariki," as they 
style her, to the dismal regions of death. I was present at a 
"full-dress" (that is to say, very little dress) practice by the 
combined men of the East Cape and surrounding districts, chief- 
ly Ngatiporou, in their large marquee in the encampment. 
The tent w r as crowded with half naked dancers, armed with 
"tewkatewhas," and with their admiring friends. Ngatiporou 
were careful to admit no members of outside tribes who might 
be wandering around to pick up "points" in dance songs from 
the East Cape tribes, who are acknowledged past masters at this 



216 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

sort of thing. For a couple of hours the rehearsal of songs 
went on, and many a wild refrain was chorused to the accom- 
paniment of resounding slaps, as one man, on the bare bodies 
of the dancers of JSTgatiporou. Here was to be seen a curious 
spectacle of an M. A. and L. L. B. of the New Zealand Uni- 
versity, a polished gentleman and a clever young lawyer, 
bounding up and down, stripped to his trousers, a flax girdle 
around his waist, spear in hand, leading his tribe in the war 
dance of their ancestors. For Mr. Apirana Ngata, one of the 
finest members of the Maori race living, does not disdain the 
martial parades of his forefathers, and patriotically encour- 
ages his tribe in healthy emulation with other people, whether 
these sports or in more serious matters. He and others of the 
more advanced men of ISTgatiporou pride themselves on having 
eliminated a great deal of the more objectionable features of 
the dances and songs ; they have in fact succeeded in Bow- 
blerising the haka. 

ARRIVAL AT ROTORUA. 

Punctually at half past four in the afternoon the royal train 
swept round the long curve leading into Rotorua station, and 
drew up alongside the platform. The reception by the assem- 
bled multitude of the Arawas was a sight long to be remem- 
bered. As the train steamed up hundreds of the people of 
the soil sprang up, and with their women waving green 
branches and the army of men brandishing, in splendid time, 
up and down, to right and left, their wooden weapons, they 
sang, or rather shouted, their stentorian "powhiri" of wel- 
come to the king's son. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 217 

The effect of the welcome song and the combined stamping 
of many hundred feet and simultaneous drill with the plumed 
tawhatewhas, was exceedingly fine and greatly interested the 
visitors, to many of whom such a sight was quite a novel one. 

Accompanied by Lord Ranfurly and the rest of the occu- 
pants of the train, their royal highnesses alighted on a car- 
peted platform. They were met by Captain Gilbert Mair, 
an old colonial officer, who was in charge of the Maori en- 
campment, and Captain Turner, chairman of the town coun- 
cil, together with several of the more prominent Maori chiefs. 

The duke was in civilian attire, dressed completely in black. 
This caused a great deal of disappointment among the Maoris, 
who had expected that his royal highness would appear in 
uniform. The Maori associates the "mama," or prestige of a 
"tinorangatira" (great chief), with his outward symbols of 
authority, such as a military uniform. The duchess was also 
dressed in black, wearing a perfectly fitting tailormade costume 
and black toque. Lord Ranfurly and the members of the staff 
were also in mufti. Captain Mair wore the uniform of a 
]STew Zealand officer of the militia. 

The proceedings at the railway station were very brief. 
After Miss Dorothy Turner had presented a bouquet to the 
duchess, Lord Ranfurly introduced Captain Turner to the 
royal visitors, and then presented to the duke the two princi- 
pal representative chiefs of the Arawa "waka," or ancestral 
tribal canoe. Both these chiefs wore handsome mantles of na- 
tive manufacture and carried valuable weapons of their race. 

•This brief ceremony over, the duke and party walked 



218 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

through a carpeted passage to the rear of th© station where the 
carriages were waiting. Soldiers, together with the Hamilton 
and Rotorua brass bands, were lined up outside the station. 
As the duke and duchess emerged from the station the band 
struck up the national anthem, while the troops presented 
arms. Outside the gates the expectant crowd of Maoris 
cheered lustily, and chanted their songs of welcome to the duke. 
The duke and duchess entered the first carriage, accompa- 
nied by Lord Wenlock, and drove to the Grand hotel, which 
had been reserved for accommodation of the royal party. The 
rest of the party followed in carriages. The mounted infan- 
try acted as escort to their royal highnesses. The Maoris 
were wildly enthusiastic, and swarmed in hundreds along the 
route behind the royal pair. Many broke through the lines, 
and ran along behind the carriage, waving their wooden battle- 
axes and spears and chanting songs of welcome. It was a great 
pity that the weather was so bad. The effect of the decora- 
tions, and indeed of the whole reception, was marred by the 
drizzling rain and the fast gathering darkness. The line of 
route tramped by the swarming crowd was literally a sea of 
mud, and the unfortunate visitors who had to follow the pro- 
cession on foot had rather a lively time of it in getting up to 
the Grand hotel. But neither rain nor wind seemed to dampen 
the enthusiasm of the Maoris, who splashed along the road 
as fast as their legs could carry them. Some pushed right in 
among the horses, and the large ?*aff of policemen had their 
work cut out to curb the exuberance of the excited throng. 



to 




AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 221 

The drive to the hotel occupied about five minutes, and the 
procession traveled at a walking pace. The native minister 
met the royal party at the entrance to the hotel and was pre- 
sented to the duke and duchess. The ceremony of presenting 
the united Maori tribes' address of welcome took place at the 
veranda steps. As the royal couple reached the steps, the band 
struck up again, and the natives broke out in another dance 
of welcome. Both the royal visitors seemed pleased with the 
cordiality of their reception, and the quaint Maori gathering 
was evidently full of interest. 

It was some little time before the shouts and chants of wel- 
come subsided, but presently the natives managed to restrain 
their enthusiasm for a while and the formal welcome was pro- 
ceeded with. The minister, mounting the steps of the veranda, 
read in clear tones the following address of welcome from the 
Maoris, a copy of which was furnished me by a friend in Auck- 
land: 

MAORIS ADDRESS OF WELCOME. 

"Their Royal Highnesses, the Duke and Duchess of York: 
Welcome, welcome, welcome. Oh, son, welcome to these isles, 
Au-te-a-roa and Te-Waipounamu ! Welcome to Maoriland! 
Welcome thou who art of the blood, the emblem of the mana, 
the majesty of the empire, under whose rule we are proud to 
abide. Oh, royal daughter of princess joined to him who is 
son of our lord king, we likewise greet you ! We heard with 
our ears, and hoped that we might see with our eyes, and re- 
joice that this thing has come to pass in our day and genera- 



222 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

tion. This is a great day — a day that will live in the memory 
of our race while God permits them existence. 

"Yet it is a day of mourning. We mourn the great queen to 
whom our fathers ceded by treaty the sovereignty over these 
isles ; who was the guardian of our rights and liberties from 
that time until she slept with her fathers. We, the humblest 
of her children, alien in blood yet akin by law and allegiance, 
mourn the loss of a mother who sought the good of high and 
low alike; who loved peace that by peace among her people 
they might rise yet higher in greatness. She was all that our 
fathers knew in their day. Her name is a gift they bequeathed 
to us ere they passed away. Pass, oh mother, to thy rest with 
the mighty dead who went before thee ! 

"Welcome! Welcome! Welcome! In the name of the 
king, your father ! We hail the new king in your person ! He 
has succeeded to the throne of his mother, to be our chief, our 
lord, our sovereign. Here in the presence of your royal 
highnesses we renew our oath of allegiance; we confirm the 
act of our fathers, who gave all to Queen Victoria and her 
successors. 

"Hear, oh ye peoples, today we make a new treaty ; new and 
yet old, inasmuch as we confirm the old, to which we but add 
expressions of continued loyalty from our generation, land 
pray that our sovereign and our white brethren may give us 
of their strength to live and thrive with them and among 
them. 

"Hear, oh prince, hear, oh princess, from the far ends of the 
earth, from remote Hawaiiki across the great seas of Kiwa 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 223 

you have come to see these lands and people. It is well, for 
by so doing you have drawn closer the bonds of love which 
knit us all together. 

''Welcome and farewell! Farewell, since you must pass on! 
It is enough that we have seen. We wish you a safe return to 
our king and his queen, from whose presence you have come 
to gladden our eyes in this, the most distant part of the em- 
pire." 

To this the duke replied at some length. His royal high- 
nesses' remarks were interpreted in Maori by the minister for 
the benefit of the assembled natives, who listened with a keen 
attention, punctuating the speech with guttural ejaculations 
expressive of evident appreciation.' 

The following is a full text of the response, a copy being 
furnished by a gentleman in !N@w Zealand. 

THE DUKE'S KEPLT. 

"To the Chiefs and Tribes of the Isles Autearoa and Wai- 
pounamu : The warm words of welcome which you have spok- 
en to the princess and myself have gladdened our heart3. 
From the far ends of the earth, over the wide seas, we have 
been sent by the great king, my father, to hear and behold in 
their own beautiful land his children, the Maoris. The great 
queen, whom your fathers knew and loved, and for whom you 
mourn with us, and with all the natives and races under the 
majesty of the empire, had, before she passed to her rest, de- 
sired us to visit her people beyond the seas, to tell of her 
great gratitude for the aid of those brave young men in the 



224 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

cruel war into which she, who ever loved and worked for 
peace, had been driven. Proud and glad was the great queen 
also that the sons of her Maori children, eager with love and 
loyalty, longed to stand side by side with their brethren in 
the field of battle. The king, my father, though his cup was 
full of sorrow, and parting with us, his children, but added 
to his bitterness, could not endure that her wish should pass 
unfulfilled, and I come in his name and on his behalf to de- 
clare to you the deep thankfulness of his heart for your loving 
sympathy in his loss, and for the noble and tender words in 
which you spoke your love and reverence for her memory. The 
words of the Maoris are true words, the words of the generous 
people who are ready to make good with the hands the promise 
of the lips. To receive your pledges of loyalty, and to learn 
from me that you have renewed your oath of allegiance and 
confirmed the act of your fathers, who gave all to Queen Vic- 
toria and her successors, will give joy to my father's heart, 
and will fill him with strength and courage for the great work 
that lies before him. The heart of the king is warm to his 
people in ]STew Zealand. He rejoices to see them dwell to- 
gether in peace and friendship, and prays that they may con- 
tinue to be united and to strengthen each other in works of 
peace, and that they also may strive for the common good and 
in aiding him to keep one and united the many people under 
his sway. If our visit helps to that end, we shall be glad to 
count as naught the sacrifices we have made in order to see 
your chiefs and you face to face in your beautiful country. 
Of our brief visit to the Maoriland we shall carry with us last- 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 225 

ing memories of the loyalty and love and generous kindness of 
the Maori people. May peace, prosperity and every blessing 
abide with you and yours forever." 

When the duke had finished, his remarks being put into 
beautiful Maori by the native minister, the latter led the 
Maoris in a rousing old war song. The well known ancient 
chant commencing "Kaimate, Kaimate, kiaora, kiaora," was 
most appropriate to the occasion, being often used as a song 
of welcome to guests. Impromptu as the song and dance were, 
the Maoris infused into them a heartiness that marked the 
spontaneity of their enthusiasm. One bare-legged veteran, in 
full native costume, with an up-to-date top hat surmounting 
his tattooed face, danced excitedly within a yard or two of the 
royal couple, brandishing a taiaha as he chanted his song of 
welcome. The air of amused pleasure with which the duchess 
regarded the enthusiastic old man and his companions showed 
that the novelty of the reception appealed strongly to her sense 
of humor. The duke, too, seemed genuinely pleased with the 
proceedings. After the dance of welcome the band struck up 
the national anthem again, and the crowd cheered as loudly 
as before, their royal highnesses acknowledging the salute 
with a bow. The royal party then entered the hotel and the 
crowd dispersed. 

VISIT TO OHINEMUTTJ. 

The duke and duchess were accorded a royal welcome when 
they made their visit to the Arawa tribes gathered at the old 
Maori village of Ohinemutu. The Arawas assembled about a 



226 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

thousand strong in front of the meeting house, Tamate-Ka- 
pura, overlooking the stirring waters of Rotorua. A bright 
sun and a blue sky favored the royal visit, which; was made 
about half past ten o'clock. 

The scene in the village square of Ohinemutu was a most 
brilliant and picturesque one. Several hundreds of all sec- 
tions of the Arawa men were gathered in two long rows, in 
fighting costume, ready to greet the long expected duke. They 
were stripped to the waist, with feathers in their hair. All 
wore native hats and carried meres, taiahas and te whate- 
whas. Behind them were gathered a great crowd of native 
people, while at the entrance to the village a select party cf 
forty women, in gala costumes, wearing blue sashes, flax 
waist mats, and carrying green bows in their hands, were sta- 
tioned to wave and sing a welcome to the royalties. They 
were headed by a woman named Kiri Matou, better known 
as the Duchess — the leader of women's dances at Rotorua. 

The carved house was gay with flags. In front of the house 
stood the Arawas' flagstaff, from which floated several large 
ensigns. At the foot of the post the Arawas had mounted on 
a carved pedestal the bust of Queen Victoria, presented to the 
tribe thirty years ago by the Duke of Edinburgh, who visited 
Ohinemutu in 18 71, when the place was in a very primitive 
condition, and when the old fighting stockades still stood here. 
Over the bust of the Queen was erected a handsome wooden 
canopy, painted in Maori style. 

In front of the parade of warriors sat old Major Fox of 
the Ngatipikiao section of the Arawas, clothed in a fine feather 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 227 

mat, and holding in his hand the claymore presented to him 
many years ago for his services in the war. Other chiefs 
representing all sections of the Arawa tribe were gathered 
here to meet the royalties. Captain Hair was busy superin- 
tending arrangements for the reception. 

!At ten-thirty the royal carriage drove up with the duke and 
duchess and their party. 

The women sang and danced their powhiri of welcome, 
waving their leafy boughs and retiring slowly backwards, still 
singing in a musical rhyme as the royal party advanced to the 
marae. The song greeted the duke in poetic language as being 
drawn to these shores in the Arawa canoe, from the uttermost 
ends of the earth, and the regions that lie beyond the horizon. 
On reaching the marae, the duke and duchess were saluted 
with great enthusiasm as they walked on to the center of the 
plaza, the duchess with the native minister leading, followed 
by the duke and Lord Ranfurly. Then came the Arawas' 
formal song of welcome. The armed men were all kneeling 
on the ground, facing the royalties, with their wooden weap- 
ons held in front of them with both hands, led by their chiefs, 
who ran up and down giving the time. The men of Te Arawa 
sang in tremendous chorus their powhiri to the duke, keep- 
ing time by waving their plumed weapons, with splendid pre- 
cision, old Major Fox in front of the warriors nourishing his 
glittering sword as his tribesmen yelled their long throated 
welcome to the king's son. 

At the conclusion of the martial song, the natives, still 
kneeling, all saluted the duke and duchess, who were then es- 



228 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

corted to Tama-te-Kapua, crossing the Paepaepoto, and walk- 
ing around the interior to inspect the curious historical carv- 
ings on the slab panels with which the walls are decorated, 
forming a picture gallery of the Arawas. The native minis- 
ter acted as interpreter. After a few minutes spent in the 
house, which was spread with fine mats for the occasion, the 
royal party emerged and walked across the marae to the foot 
of the flagstaff, where stood the bust of the late queen. Here 
a number of Arawa chiefs and chieftainesses were in waiting 
to receive the duke and duchess. The native minister, assisted 
by his aide, introduced them to the royalties. 

Two handsome young women of rank of the Arawa tribe 
were in waiting to make presentations to the duke and duchess. 
The ladies were Te Rongokahira and Te Paerakau Haere- 
huka, both of whom are direct descendants of great chiefs 
reigning over a hundred years ago. 

The two chieftainesses now handed to the duchess a much 
valued patupounama and greenstone weapon, an ancestral relic, 
also a white kiwi feather tea cosey and a muff of brown kiwi 
feathers. The green stone was a marriage gift to Rongoka- 
hira from the Ngaiatahu, a south island tribe. It is known 
to the Maoris by the name of Taratawa. 

At the foot of the queen's statue were laid out several very 
fine flax mantles and mats, together with a green stone mere. 
These were the Arawa gifts to the duke and duchess. A tall 
black bearded chief named Pirimi Matoihaia, of Whakarewa- 
rewa, made a short speech in reference to the gifts of the 
Arawa people, Captain Mair interpreting. Pirimi said: 



a fi 



Z 

n 

m 

C/5 

CD 

5 

o 




AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 231 

"We are spreading these Maori gifts before the statue of 
our late majesty, Queen Victoria. This is in accordance with 
the custom of laying down presents in memory of those who 
are departed. They are tokens of our love, therefore we beg 
your royal highness not to disregard these small presents, un- 
worthy though they may be, but to take them with you. This 
is all. We here are all the Karaws." 

Their royal highnesses graciously acknowledged the gifts. 
Pirimi also displayed before the eyes of royalty the Arawa 
tribal ensign, a blue silk flag; heavily fringed, bearing the 
words, "Te Arawa, 1870." Leaving the foot of the flagstaff 
the royal couple and party walked up along the lines of the 
armed men until they came to the tattooed veteran, Major Fox, 
who, by reason of his feeble health, was seated in a chair. The 
major rose and was presented to the royalties, who shook hands 
with him. The old man's face lighted up with deep gratifi- 
cation and pleasure as the duke and duchess inspected the 
sword borne by the venerable soldier, which was sent to him 
by Queen Victoria. The major, on being presented, handed 
a green stone toki or ax to the duke as a token of his love and 
regard. 

The duchess, seeing the old chief was an invalid, asked him 
why he had troubled to leave his bed to see them. He replied 
gallantly that his love for the royal family was so great that 
he could not stay at home. 

Another song of welcome was sung in a lower key by a sec- 
tion of Arawas behind Major Fox. Soon afterwards the duke 
and duchess were escorted to their conveyance, which drove 



232 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

up to the marae for tliem. They took their leave of the Ara- 
was amidst a scene of excited enthusiasm, the Maoris chant- 
ing a farewell waiata in the fashion of native songs. This 
was an old, well known chant, which appropriately bade sor- 
rowing adieu to friends. 

The duke and duchess bowed and smiled as they drove off, 
the duke turning to the assembled people and raising his hat, 
in which was displayed a huia feather, presented to him on 
the marae, the rare plume which was the old Maori badge of 
chieftainship. Then the royal couple drove away, followed 
by the shrilly chorused farewells of the gaily garbed people, 
whose minds will ever retain vivid memories of this all too 
brief visit to the lakeside home of the Arawas, amongst boil- 
ing springs of the historic Ohinemutu kianga. 

whakarewaeewa's weird wondees. 

From Ohinemutu the party drove to Whakarewarewa, arriv- 
ing at eleven-thirty. They, were met by the Tuhourangi sec- 
tion of the Arawa tribe, headed by Te Keepa, TJita Taupo- 
poki and other leading chiefs, the natives cheering enthusias- 
tically. They were shown Nelson's famous carved house at the 
entrance to the village as they passed, and then proceeded along 
the road to the bridge over Tuarenga creek. Here an arch of 
welcome, handsomely decorated with ferns and lycopodium, 
was erected on the bridge, with "Haere J Mai," the Maori wel- 
come, written overhead. After crossing the bridge, their 
highnesses and party alighted, and proceeded to the govern- 
ment reserve. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 233 

The government inspector led the way. Sophia, the 
veteran, guide, and one of the few survivors at Wairo'a 
during the famous Tarawera eruption, acted as guide to the 
duchess, Maggie Papaqura, a handsome half-caste girl guiding 
the duke. The first spot visited was the Wairoa geyser. The 
inspector threw 1 in a quantity of soap, and in a few minutes 
a magnificent column of boiling water burst forth, reaching 
to the height of about one hundred feet. The geyser played 
with immense activity for several minutes, making a grand 
spectacle. 

Returning through the native enclosure, the duke and party 
stationed themselves on the bridge, and watched with great in- 
terest and amusement the dusky native children diving from 
the railings into the creek twenty feet below. The duchess 
was highly amused at the antics of these excited little mor- 
tals, who vied one with another in diving for a silver coin and 
pennies thrown from the bridge above. Two tiny Maori girls 
with a present of half a crown were each to dive from the bridge 
for the benefit of the duchess. Nothing loath, the little mites 
putting the coins for safety in their mouths, jumped boldly 
from the rail amidst great laughter and applause. A band 
of Maori girls in bright-colored blouses danced the graceful 
poi dance. As the royal party passed along from th.3 village, 
the brass band played the national anthem and the crowd 
cheered lustily. Both the duke and the duchess appeared 
thoroughly pleased with the curious sights witnessed. 



234 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 



CARNIVAL OF THE TRIBES. 



It is a curious and striking scene that meets the eye. Massed 
in the center of the ground are the dancers, every man in 
full fighting costume, stripped to the waist, and wearing mats 
of rustling flax, each carrying a long pointed spear. Over 
the dusky warriors flags of every tribe assembled flutter in 
the breeze, which the huge ensign "porourangi," of the Kgati- 
porou, with its crescent moon and star standing out against 
•the dark blue background, to the 'tiny bannerets carried by 
some of the tribes. In front of Wangamui natives wave their 
white Motea ensign, presented by Queen Victoria to the de- 
fenders of Mopea. Another much prized flag, the red ensign 
of the !Ngatihuia, presented at Otaki by Lord Onslow. The 
flags, spears, and columns of dusky warriors combined to lend 
a very martial air to the scene, and the white tents of the 
big encampment in the distant background enhance the mil- 
itary effect. To the left are the poi dancers, dressed alter- 
nately in red and white, in a huge semi-circle. Around the 
enclosure runs the black line of spectators, while the stands 
on either side the royal pavilion are crammed to their utmost 
limits. Overhead is a blue unclouded sky, the whole en- 
closure being bathed in brilliant sunshine. 

It is a long wait till ten o'clock When royalties are due, and 
the tribes fill in the time practicing their dances and songs 
of welcome. Others squat upon their haunches, jabbering ex- 
citedly. Tour brawny warriors approach the royal pavilion, 
bearing on their shoulders the ten-foot model of the famous 
Rawa canoe, laden with gifts for the royal couple. The canoe 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 235 

is placed upon the stand, and alongside the natives plant the 
blue banner of the Arawas, a flag presented them in 1870 by 
the Duke of Edinburg. 

Shortly before ten loud cheering announced the arrival of 
the duke and duchess. The former was carrying in his right 
hand the green stone adze, presented to him by Major Fox, 
while the duchess carried a fine mere also presented to her. 
Their royal highnesses, on taking their seats in the pavilion, 
were presented by the minister's wife with mats, which she 
fastened around their shoulders. The duke's mat was of dog 
skin, with a beautiful border, while the duchess wore a mat 
of kiwi feathers. 

The tuhoe drum and fife band played the national anthem 
as the party took their seats and the leading East Coast chiefs 
assembled in line before the grand stand to greet their royal 
guests. 

Immediately in front of the royal stand were massed the 
great body of the Maoris in battle array, in close formation 
of column, or "matua," each tribe forming a sort of square 
in compact bodies of armed men, all stripped to the waist, flax 
kilts or shawls around their waists, their faces daubed wnth 
black and blue war paint, and their hair decorated with feath- 
er plumes. The sight was an exceedingly war-like one, as the 
■tribes yelling their battle songs, fell in companies on the 
parade ground. They crouched down a short distance in front 
of the stand, weapons in hand, waiting for the arrival of 'the 
royalties. About two thousand Maoris were gathered here 



236 AROUND THK WORLD IN THE NAVY 

to take part in the dances, while almost another three thousand 
natives were spectators. 

As the royal party took their seats the great body of the 
people, wildly excited, rose up with spears and wax axes in 
hand. 

Then began a splendid martial scene, the like of which will 
never be seen again in New Zealand. The Ngapuhis performed 
a war dance and then moved off. Then came Te Arawa, who 
also with their weapons in hand, went through the warlike drill 
with machine-like precision, singing in great chorus a song of 
welcome, roared from several hundred throats, led by old 
Major Fox, who, sword in hand, danced wonderfully ener- 
getically. 

Then came the war dance of the ISJgaiterangi tribe, from Tau- 
ranga, armed with sharp spears, and with white feathers stuck 
in their hair. They sang their welcome song, then yelled the 
well-known old war song, beginning "kia kutia," etc. A Wan 
Ganui tribe, dressed only in flax waist mats, danced some splen- 
did hakas, which were loudly applauded as they moved off. 

At intervals in the dancing the ceremony of presenting gifts 
to the royal visitors took place. A line of men and women 
advanced, facing the ranks, and deposited their treasures at 
the royal pavilion at the feet of the duke and duchess. Every 
tribe had given its most precious heirlooms, and some were 
very rare and priceless in their historic associations — meres 
of whalebone and greenstone, beautifully worked mats of 
kiwi feathers or colored flax handsome feather kits, korowais, 
and puipuis in wonderful variety of form and color. One gift 



AROUND THK WORLD IN THE NAVY 237 

was an old-time banner of flax, another a beautiful mat of 
pigeon feathers. The gifts, numbering dozens, were piled high 
in a heap on the floor of the pavilion before the royal couple, 
and the minister's wife fastened a handsome green stone piki 
around the duchess' neck. The Maoris' address of welcome, 
beautifully framed, was laid on top of the pile. 

THE EOYAL MEDALS. 

There were thirty-six chiefs who received medals from 
the duke, among them Major Fox (Pokiha Taranui). The 
aged 'Major Fox was the last man to be decorated by his royal 
highness. The old man wrapped in his korowai sat in a chair 
before the table where the duke presided. When his turn 
came, he arose to his feet, leaning on his taiaha, and the crowd 
cheered loudly as the duke, with royal courtesy, advanced from 
the table and himself pinned the medal on the aged warrior's 
breast. All the medals were stamped with the heads of the 
duke and the duchess, and inscribed in commemoration of their 
visit to the colonies, with the date, 1901. 

THE CHILDREN'S FETE. 

When a small band of children are engaged in those exer- 
cises taught them in the public schools, the effect is interest- 
ing, but when they are seen in regiments, thronging a space 
X)f several acres, the result is surprising and full of interest. 
You see twenty thousand hands flash into the air simultaneously, 
ten thousand pliant young bodies bending together rhythmi- 
cally but with machine-like regularity, and 'the movements 
stir you strangely. 



238 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

Perhaps the prettiest item of the day's play was the May- 
pole dancing, in which several companies of quaintly clad 
and pretty little girls took part, dancing with all that sim- 
plicity and grace which seemed to be part of the life and na- 
ture of healthy, happy children. The weaving bright ribbons 
as the dancing sprites moved in and out, seemed; to pulse in 
time with the music and flow into the melody, a feast of color. 

Youngsters, of both sexes, dressed in the familiar fancy cos- 
tumes of the Scotch, the Irish, Welsh, and English, and chil- 
dren in costumes too numerous to specify/, danced, marched, 
exercised and sang, and whatever they did was done with a 
verve that carried a glow of satisfaction to the breasts of the 
spectators, whose ejaculations spoke the creative pride and the 
magnificent delight of papa and mamma. 

The singing of the children was pleasant and a proof of 
excellent training and good management. A few regiments of 
cadets recited in one voice "The Charge of the Six Hundred," 
with appropriate music and suitable gestures. "Sabring the gun- 
ners there," with a brave flashing of bayonets. The mirror drill 
display was another pleasant exhibition of effective work; in 
fact, nothing the kiddies did was done ill, and they always 
succeeded in conveying some of the delight they felt themselves 
to the spectators. 

RETURN OF THE BROOKLYN TO SYDNEY. 

On June 15th, the flagship returned to Sydney, Australia, 
where she was thrown open for inspection by the public. An 
official ball was given by the admiral to the high officials on 
shore, as at the other places visited by the Brooklyn. 




Tea House ; One Hundred and One Steps ; Yokohama, Japan. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 241 

Here the vessel was docked and underwent necessary re- 
pairs prior to returning to Manila. 

The fourth of July was celebrated in Sydney harbor, which 
is a port of English sentiment, by the usual sports, such as 
boat racing, climbing greased poles, and various contests which 
generally go to make a celebration of Independence Day. At 
night a variety performance was given by our minstrel troupe, 
on board the Brooklyn, which was largely attended and ap- 
parently enjoyed by friends of the jackies on shore. 

So did we conduct ourselves in Australia and New Zealand, 
and it is hoped that the visit of the flagship Brooklyn did 
much to cement the goodwill between the United States and 
these colonies, and to elevate, if possible, the many resident 
Americans who treated us so royally, in the estimation of 
their neighbors, the colonists. 

The morning of July 7th, 1901, was spent in gazing for the 
last time upon the shores of ISTew South Wales, as we slowly 
steamed out of the harbor of Sydney, bound for Manila, Phil- 
ippine Islands, via Albany, West Australia, and Batavia, 
Java. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



RETURN TO MANILA! BOAT RACING WITH BATTLESHIP KEN- 
TUCKY ADVANCEMENT OF PHILIPPINES THE BEST 

PLAN POR PACIFICATION. 



T 



'HE RETURN to Manila was a pleasant one, and our 

friends in the bay were delighted with the stories we 

had to tell the colonies. While Manila is not the most 

pleasant place in the world, it did seem good to see '"old glory" 

waving over the forts, and one felt to a certain extent he was 

home again. 

Not long, however, were we to enjoy the pleasures of quiet 
life in the bay alongside of the beef-boat, for Admiral Remey 
found it necessary to proceed in a few weeks to the north. 

Before we left Manila, the Kentucky, flagship of the junior 
squadron, Commander Rear Admiral Kempff, formerly senior 
squadron commander, challenged the flagship Brooklyn for a 
boat race between the two ships' apprentice boys, with their 
race boats. The crews to be all boys who were to pull four 
miles. 

We were not in a fair position to lose much money, as Aus- 
tralia had been a very pleasant place to visit, and pleasure, I 
have found, costs money. But the Kentucky was persistent;, 
and with the navy yard and other ships in the harbor she 
managed to make up a purse of $13,000. Well, we had to 
put up our mess money and almost "pawn our socks," but 
we covered it. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 243 

When the Brooklyn's boat racing boys appeared, there was a 
"howl" from the Kentucky, — she wanted to race her big boys, 
who had been in special training for three months, against our 
boys, who were too busy sight-seeing to train, but who had 
managed during our colonial cruise to win five or six races 
from the Australians and New Zealanders, but our boys, 
though all under age, were the biggest lot of six-footers on the 
ship. 

The boats were towed out to the starting point, opposite 
Manila, and at the crack of the revolver got off together. 

Tremendous excitement prevailed on both these great flag- 
ships, their crews of approximately six hundred people, were 
crowded and perched upon every available point of vantage. 

Johnnie Davis, of Santiago cable-cutting fame, coxswain of 
the Brooklyn's cutter, launched ahead from the first, and as 
we watched through our glasses the steady stroke of these big 
boys of Uncle Sam, there came simultaneously from the throats 
of both ships' crews alike a great cheer in admiration. In 
perfect time, without a single command, the oars of both boats 
dipped and pulled like clockwork, while, as they grew closer, 
the brawny muscles of every man could be traced as they played 
back and forth on the oars. 

Admiral Kemey's flag of rank is a small blue flag, with two 
white stars; Almiral KempfT's, when in company with his 
senior, is red, with two white stars. In appropriate imita- 
tion, the boats' crews had adopted these colors respectively. 

Thirteen thousand dollars is a considerable sum of money 
to men of the navy and on both ships they were shouting eu- 



244 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

couraging words to their boats. Though excitement prevailed 
on the ships, the boats' crews appeared cool and collected. 
Coxswain Davis, with his body swaying back and forth in true 
race boat fashion, steered the little craft in a masterly way. 
So cleverly did lie meet the choppy sea that hardly a drop of 
spray fell upon his men during the entire race. They feathered 
and pulled as one man, driving her through the water at a 
great pace, as smoothly as if she were propelled by machin- 
ery. 

There is something exciting about a boat race that exceeds 
that of other races. A feeling that the muscles and skill of 
men cause her to rise and fall so steadily, forging ahead, as 
to almost seem to be a thing of life, makes one feel akin to 
the contestants. 

As they neared the Brooklyn, her band struck up the "Stars 
and Stripes," bringing forth a cheer that shook to her keel 
this great fighting ship. 

All this did not seem to affect the crews of the race boats, 
both the blue and the red kept on methodically, the red strain- 
ing every nerve to regain lost ground. 

Strain as they might, it was plainly impossible for the 
Kentucky's boys to win, but in order to lessen the number of 
strokes of her disgrace, she kept bravely on until, with a 
shout of exultation, the Brooklyn's boat crossed the line, and 
waving the blue flag wildly, Johnnie Davis ordered his men to 
"toss oars," while every man in the bay commenced to count 
the strokes of disgrace it cost the Kentucky's boat to reach goal. 
Loud enough for the Kentucky to hear, we counted strokes as 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 245 

they were taken up to one hundred and forty-six, when the 
poor, crestfallen crew finally tossed oars across the line. 

With the band playing "There'll Be a Hot Time in the Old 
Town Tonight," we sent a steamer over to the Kentucky to 
bring off the purse, and the committee reported the "sorest" 
ship's company imaginable. 

For the next few days there was plenty of shore liberty in 
Manila. Everybody had money, and it was very amusing to 
see the boat loads of liberty men pull past the Kentucky on their 
way ashore, shouting in derision at their defeat. Very few 
liberty parties from the Kentucky that month. 

A few days after the events narrated above, Pete O'Hare, a 
very jolly old Irish fireman, when returning from liberty at 
night, lost his balance, and fell overboard from the little 
steamer Barcelo, and was never again seen. Though searching 
parties were immediately sent out to drag that part of the 
bay, it was of no avail, and poor Pete was left at the mercy of 
the sharks of Manila Bay. 

As is customary on such occasions, the sailors on the 
Brooklyn, rather than wound the pride of his mother by con- 
tributing a purse, sold his clothes at auction. For instance, 
an old sock, hat or other article of little intrinsic value, would 
be sold for five dollars, then returned to the auctioneer to again 
find a buyer. In this manner over $600 was contributed to 
his mother. 

One sunny afternoon about the time of which I am writing, I 
happened to glance out of a port toward the city of Manila, and 
beheld the strangest condition of atmosphere I have ever wit- 



246 AROUND THE WORLD IN THB NAVY 

nessed. The water was smooth as a sheet of glass, the sky 
black with dense clouds, through which jagged shafts of light- 
ning shrieked and roared with the ferocity of a maddened lion. 
The air was sultry and hot. Afar off in the mountains I de- 
tected swaying and bending among the cocoanut trees, which 
denoted the presence of wind. 

Steadily, but surely, it grew closer and closer to the bay, 
gathering force as it advanced until, in about two minutes, it 
struck the water almost like a blow from some tremendous 
unearthly power, and in less than a minute had reached the 
ship, and coming broadside on, rolled her over to starboard be- 
fore she had time to swing at her anchor. The waves came up 
almost incredibly quick and in less time than I take to write 
this, a tremendous sea rolled, tossed and roared in Manila 
Bay. 

Small native boats could be seen making for the beach when 
the storm first appeared, but, poor devils, they were caught 
in a death trap, and some of them went down before our 
eyes. The bay is full of sharks, that no doubt are well fed. 

In about twenty minutes the wind was all gone, the weather 
returned to its former brightness, leaving a high sea as the 
only sign of the typhoon's visit. The ship acted nobly, but 
it was a severe ordeal and she tugged and groaned at her an- 
chor chains like a great animal in captivity, terrified to mad- 
ness and unable to escape. Her awnings were barely saved 
by prompt action on the part of the officer-of-the-deck, who, 
on the first appearance of the typhoon, called his men on deck 
and furled all canvas. A boat load of fresh beef at the gang- 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 247 

way was torn loose and swept away, leaving us to subsist on 
canned and salt provisions a few days. 

Before the storm all was peace and comfort aboard the 
ship, but in twenty minutes misery reigned; ports were closed, 
hatch-covers on, decks wet, the vessel rolling and pitching, while 
many of her crew felt that terrible monster to grapple with — 
seasickness. 

How well this shows us that we may be taken any moment. 
It recalls to one the nearness of the end and cautions him as to 
his daily life. 

ADVANCEMENT OF THE PHILIPPINES. 

! As this work is not intended to take up exhaustively the 
history of the Philippines, the labors of Professor Dean C. 
Worcester, in his book on the Philippine Islands, is respect- 
fully recommended to those who may desire more complete in- 
formation. 

Professor Worcester writes from personal experience of the 
islands, long before they were brought to the notice of the 
United States, having made three different trips of extended 
research. His work is scholarly, and is considered authentic 
by learned authorities. 

The Philippine Islands lie in a part of the world of which 
little was known in the earlier centuries, except vagU'j rumors 
that vast wealth was there, ready to be taken by any adven- 
turous navigator, who could reach it. But as time rolled slowly 
on the piratical epoch came and departed, leaving in its train, 
as its only good, the disillusion of the world as to fabulous 
wealth obtainable in the orient without labor. Wealth is there ; 



248 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

but, instead of picking up gold in the streets and hills, it must 
be won through commercial industry. 

These facts, when finally brought to light during the pe- 
riod of (exploration of the fifteenth century, in which Colum- 
bus discovered America, and Ferdinand Magellan, or Hernando 
Maghellanes, a Portuguese nobleman, representing Charles I., 
King of Spain, undertaking the discovery of new Spice Islands, 
left Spain in August, 1519, and after perilous adventures, 
landed at Cebu, Philippine Islands, on August 7, 1521, caused 
nations to seek new territory. 

He had stopped for a time at the Island of Mindanao, 
where making friends with the natives, he learned of the rich- 
ness of Cebu from a native chief, who finally piloted the ex- 
pedition to Cebu. 

The natives at Cebu saw the great ships coming and were 
alarmed, but the chieftain from Mindanao, being a brother of 
their king, assured them that the strangers had come with 
friendly intent and only desired food. The king, thereupon, 
proposed to make a treaty with Magellan, with both Spanish 
and native ceremony. The Spanish ally welcomed the proposi- 
tion he had come so far to obtain, and bringing his men on shore, 
impressive ceremonies were held. The king and members of his 
royal household were baptized, the customary exchange of 
blood was made, and allegiance sworn to their new master, the 
king of Spain. 

To further win the good will of the king of Cebu, Ma- 
gellan entered with him into his native wars with his own 
men and arms, but was wounded in a skirmish on the little 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 249 

island of Mactan, within a year, and died there, without 
ever enjoying the harvest of his labors. I have visited his 
tomb, and, as I stood near it, reading the Spanish inscriptions 
thereon, it occurred to me that many great men have thus 
been cut off from the enjoyment of their earnings by an am- 
bition too great and harmful to others. 

When Magellan was no more, the expedition, though they 
endeavored to carry out his plans, soon went to pieces, and 
only one of the five original ships ever returned to Spain, the 
first vessel to circumnavigate the globe. 

The king of Spain organized other expeditions, but it 
was over forty years before the islands were reduced to act- 
ual possession. 

The present deplorable state of the Philippine Islands is 
directly responsible, in my opinion, to Philip II., in whose 
honor they were named, who inspired by religious zeal, or 
the devil, as may be, set out to conquer and convert the Fili- 
pinos to Catholocism, thereby adding them to the already long 
list of nations that, adopting Catholocism, failed to prosper. 

Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, with six Augustine monks, left 
Spain for the Philippines in 1563, where he arrived first at 
Camaguin and touching at Bohul, decided to invade Cebu. 
The king, being suspicious, sent a spy to report on the Span- 
iards. The man returned with ridiculous stories of ships 
manned by giants in magnificent robes, who drank fire and 
blue smoke out of their mouths. This settled the king, and 
when Legaspi landed, in April, 1565, to take possession of 
Cebu, the king welcomed him, but the natives wera auspicious 



250 AROUND THE WORLD IN THK NAVY 

and soon made strong attacks on his parly. However, he 
withstood them, and also threw off the Portuguese who made 
claims to the islands. 

In 1570 Legaspi's grandson, Soleedo, was sent with an ex- 
pedition to subdue Luzon. The first city council of Manila 
was established in June, 1571, and forms of government en- 
acted. In 1572 Legaspi died, adding one more to the list of 
energetic martyrs for ambition. 

During the next three centuries, attempts were made by 
various powers, to wrest the islands from Spain. Chinese 
overrunning the archipelago were massacred or deported, 
their property being divided between the state and holy Cath- 
olic church. 

During this time nine attempts were made by Spain to 
subdue the Sulu Islands, but in each attempt failure was their 
only rew 7 ard. 

Insurrection has existed in the Philippine Islands since 
1622 ; its causes, the same that have provoked the more recent 
revolts — tyranny of the Catholic church and burdensome taxes 
levied by ch">"^i mid state alike. 

So has the existence of the Filipinos been burdened with in- 
surrection, tyranny and war since the time of Magellan. They 
have never had an opportunity, and it is not beyond my com- 
prehension why they are not more highly civilized today. 

When Dewey steamed into Manila Bay, the Filipino was in 
active insurrection against his old time foe; he welcomed the 
appearance of "old glory," almost as the coming of an angel 
of promise ; but his centuries of betrayal and tyrannical gov- 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 251 

ernment had so biased his mind that he was unable to un- 
derstand the signs of honest authority. His greatest misfor- 
tune was that he failed to recognize his savior. 

Among the higher class of natives, it is now understood 
and their ignorant rebellion against the United States gov- 
ernment is deplored. 

Though no actual proof is in my possession with which to 
back a positive assertion, I may state as my belief that the 
Catholic priests advise, order and often compel the Filipinos to 
fight the United States government against their will, while, 
at the same time, the priests pretend in their associations with 
American officials to do all in their power in quelling the in- 
surrection. 

Since Americans have taken control, the advancement to- 
ward higher things has been amazing. Schools, roads, machin- 
ery, modern planting, water traffic, and communication have 
improved one hundred per cent. 

Today the Filipino, with brains, strength and ambition, 
may attain any height. Opportunities surround him and many 
are taking advantage of them. Never before in the history of 
his country has the Filipino known such good fortune. 

If the present policy of our government is carried out in 
the Philippines, twenty years will make the islands habit- 
able and a pleasant place to live. They are rich in fruits, ver- 
dure and every growth conducive to a pleasant, tropical home. 
Modern irrigation, sewerage, etc., will also take away much of 
the danger from fevers. 



252 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 



If the United States father the Philippines, I predict a 



great future for them. 



THE BEST PLAN FOR PACIFICATION. 

General Otis early recognized education as the best civilizer 
and recommended public schools as a military measure. To 
tame a Filipino; first, catch him; then, teach him that it is 
easier and more pleasant to be good; and you have him civ- 
ilized; otherwise "skin" him. 

With education distributed freely among the former class 
and hemp and buckshot among the latter, there is little doubt 
in my mind that they can soon be pacified. I would rec- 
ommend the latter means of pacifying some of the priests 
who have double dispositions. 

What can you expect of a Filipino when thousands of good, 
sensible Americans are so superstitious that they will not 
move a broom or a cat, move in the dark of the moon, will not 
sit thirteen at table, commence a lengthy piece of work on 
Friday, and countless other ideas too numerous to set forth 
here? The Filipino has for generations been accustomed to 
believe and obey the Catholic priests; do you think he will 
begin now to doubt when told by them that Americans wish 
only to steal their homes and kill them? Will it not take ed- 
ucation, and plenty of it, to teach these "old dogs" new tricks ? 
Why not remove the cause ? We will suppose, for example, that 
the United States government will select one hundred of the 
most intelligent Filipinos, and subject them to a vote of the 
people in the islands to elect twenty-five men to form a con- 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVV 253 

gress to represent their people. Let us appoint twenty-five peo- 
ple here, the same way to meet with them, in consideration of 
a plan of independent government for the islands. 

Let them draw up this plan and submit it to the congress 
and president of the United States. If approved, then let 
the Philippine-American congress set a figure that shall cover 
all expense incurred by the United States in behalf of the 
Philippine Islands. When a figure has been set let the islands 
form a United Island government of their own, within cer- 
tain limits, prescribed by said Philippine- American congress, 
under the protection of the United States government and pay 
from their United Island treasury, in a given number of years, 
what Uncle Sam has spent on them. 

I do not presume to such height as the ability to suggest the 
proper manner or form of government these people should 
have, but it is evident to me that, if Uncle Sam's army is kept- 
there much longer trying to "lick" these poor people, and in- 
cidentally draw good salaries, which a few of them draw, the 
figure it will be necessary to name would buy more than one 
such archipelago. 

To illustrate the common, every-day state of affairs in the 
Philippines, I will draw a word picture of a scene familiar 
to those who have lived in these islands. 

A native cart was slowly moving along the road leading north 
from San Fabian, a water buffalo between the shafts, the 
cart being loaded with small bags of rice and coffee. It was 
a very warm evening, and the roads were exceedingly bad, 
so that the buffalo was taking his own time, frequently lying 



254 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

down to cool himself in the numerous mud puddles along the 
way. 

A native man in the Filipino dress, and a woman were fol- 
lowing this droll conveyance, and if any one had taken pains 
to notice so common an occurrence as this manner of travel, 
he might have seen that the native was unusully large and mus- 
cular, nearly equal in physique to the average American. The 
woman, also, was above the average height of the Filipinos of 
this locality, Avell rounded and extremely graceful and comely 
in appearance. 

The man wore a large straw hat, the rim hanging down 
over his eyes ; a pair of abbreviated linen trousers and a gauzy 
shirt fluttering loosely outside his trousers in the breeze. He 
wore a belt with a bolo at his side and carried a short buffalo 
whip in his hand. 

The woman wore no shoes or stockings; a pair of sandals 
of native use on her feet, a single piece of cloth about two 
yards long by one in depth, was wrapped around her waist a 
couple of times and tucked in, in place of being pinned or but- 
toned, reaching below the knees. Underneath this she wore 
a white cotton chimese, cut low in the neck, which, being like 
the waist over it, rather gauzy, revealed dimly the daintily 
rounded bosom and was gorgeously embroidered about the 
neck. Over this she wore a loose, gauzy waist only reaching 
half way to the skirt, with very large flowing short sleeves. The 
waist was not belted, and lacked, perhaps, six inches of meet- 
ing the skirt, as is the prevailing fashion. On her head was a 
large straw hat, similar to the senior. Her hair was jet black. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 255 

very fine, and if unrolled would have reached her knees. It 
was worn combed up in front and laying in great rolls and 
braids on her head and neck. Barring the cocoanut grease 
covering her hair, it might have been the envy of the proudest 
queen. A string of beads clung about her neck, which she 
would count occasionally, mumbling a prayer as she did so. 

Just as the sun went below the horizon, on the banana 
cropped knoll near the sea, the man guided' his buffalo to an 
open spot on one side of the road, unfastened his harness, and 
after giving him a drink at a spring near by, tethered him in 
a grass plot and returned to the woman, who was busily en- 
gaged in preparing some rice and curry for cooking. He gath- 
ered a few dry sticks and started a little fire over which she 
hung ;the pot to cook. He then climbed a neighboring cocoa- 
nut tree and secured several green nuts, cut from a stalk near 
by some green bananas for frying, and after digging a few 
yams, carried them back to the camp and they busied themselves 
in silence in preparing the evening, "chow." 

When supper was over, the woman first attended to the 
small supply of dishes, then touching him on the arm, she made 
several rapid motions with the fingers; he was, apparently, 
deaf and dumb, for he answered in the same manner, and 
picking up a polished cocoanut shell, went to the spring and 
filled it with pure cold water, and gave it to her. 

When they were settled comfortably, squatting upon the 
ground, he pulled a home made cigar of gigantic proportions 
out of his pocket, and lighting it in the fire, proceeded to en- 
joy one of the chief comforts of the orient. His companion 



256 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

lit a native, home made cigarette and 'together they sat in 
silence, only interrupted by an occasional talking with the 
fingers or a smile. After a while she produced from a hidden 
pocket a small bundle of green leaves. Slowly unrolling the 
package, she disclosed a number of smaller leaves of different 
varieties, took some in her mouth, and after chewing them a 
moment, added a small bit of a peculiar salve-like mixture 
and the chew was complete. The degree of perfection shown 
by the deepening tint of carmine in the saliva. To a Euro- 
pean such a mess would seem disgusting, but she appeared 
to enjoy it, and after getting it into good working order, hand- 
ed the package to her companion, who proceeded to manufac- 
ture his own "chew." 

They would have appeared a queer pair in civilization, as 
they squatted there in the firelight, smoking and chewing that 
nasty mess. But as the fire lighted up the scenery, the extreme 
beauty of the young woman must have been seen. Her face 
was delicately round, with the most roguish dimples in both 
her brown cheeks and chin. They sat by the fire, while she 
listened to the sound of the buffalo munching grass nearby, 
an occasional flapping of wings, as a night bird or vampire 
passed overhead, and a steady hum from the swarms of mos- 
quitos which continually worried them. When they had fin 1 - 
ished smoking, the woman arose, made a few signs on her fin- 
gers, and with her dark face wreathed in most bewitching 
smiles, climbed up into the cart and lay down upon the sacks, 
the man most carefully and tenderly covering her with some 
native mosquito bars lying in the cart. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 257 

This is the present mode of travel in the Philippines. In 
twenty years, with energetic management, it is possible to 
change all these things into modern conveniences. It is pos- 
sible to so improve these foreign possessions that men of busi- 
ness, brains and capital, inured to the comforts of civilized 
lands, will be willing to go there and improve to a higher 
plane these beautiful islands so richly endowed by nature. 

It is the object of this chapter to state plainly my opinion 
of the best plan for the pacification and advancement of these 
islands. Given in brief : Give them what they want, their in- 
dependence ; but hold a mortgage, so to speak, upon their coun- 
try until Uncle Sam has received every dollar they have cost 
him. On the other hand, if Uncle Sam desires a plaything 
with which to experiment, or a place in which his young braves 
may have an opportunity to sharpen their claws in preparation 
for any real fighting he may later require of them, or if he de- 
sires to spend his money and lives of his boys in the civilization 
and improvement of the Philippines from a Christian and chari- 
table standpoint, and is willing to take so great a moral responsi- 
bility as the control of eight million people or more, with 
whom he is rather inexperienced, then let him continue as he 
is at present conducting affairs. 

Why are the Philippine Islands in our possession ? 

Was it because Spain was spanking the Filipinos too hard ? 

Was it because the Filipino is a nice little boy and we jusr, 
simply liked him so well that we want to spank him a little 
ourselves ? 



258 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

Was it because he had a rich country, and "poor Uncle Sam 
needed it ?" 

Was it because "poor old Spain" was hard up and w r e 
just wanted to give her a little "lift" of "twenty million or so ? 

Was it because we needed a coaling station on the other side 
of the world? We could store quite a lit'tle coal on the Phil- 
ippines, if we could just get these eight million people out of 
the way ; but as it is they might walk off with it or throw 
it at us. 

Maybe it was because Dewey "licked" poor old Montijo in 
Manila Bay and therefore "just simply had to swipe" the 
Spanish possessions while we had an opportunity and an ex- 
cuse. 

Maybe we will find out in about a century that Spain licked 
us after all. If she wanted to get rid of the islands, and sell 
some of her old obsolete ships for a good round figure, it 
would have been the best plan to carry out her part as she did. 
Of course, I understand that a couple or three of her ships 
were modern, but it would at least have been necessary to 
make a "show" of resistance. I don't think this waf3 quite the 
reason of our possession, but it is about as plausible as some 
others. 

Perhaps Uncle Sam wanted to make a lot of fine looking 
army and navy officers and give them good "jobs." It is a 
shame that some of 'these nice looking sons of shrewd old dads 
did not have good "jobs" before the war. But then, I should 
not speak lightly of them, because they really earn their 
money. They are brave, the brass collared ones, and look 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 259 

pretty on parade. Why, you ought to see how they love each 
other ! It is simply too sweet to see how quickly, when Cap- 
tain or Lieutenant Smith shoots a bloodthirsty old Filipino 
and wife, with half a dozen children or so, or Ensign So and 
So, in command of the captured Spanish ship So and So, a 
little gunboat about the size of a steam launch or tug, bom- 
bards a bamboo "shack" or sinks a canoe load of fishermen, 
I say it is just too cunning to see how quickly a brother officer 
will write a nice high sounding letter to <the secretary of war, 
or the navy, praising the brave conduct of his dear gallant 
brother at arms, and recommending him for promotion ! 

JSTow, on this subject, let me make a serious remark in favor 
of many brave officers and men who have served their country 
faithfully in the Philippines. There has been a great deal 
of hard fighting there and thousands of men and officers have 
fought bravely and honestly, with no expectation of reward. 
Many of them fell. Many have received wounds that inca- 
pacitate them for life. They are one and all brave fellows, 
deserving of all the honor and praise it is possible to give them. 
Every man who fights in the orient is deserving of some re- 
ward. But, on the other hand, there are a few like those I 
have ridiculed above, who are too worthless to ever perform 
any real brave deed that are constantly throwing bouquets 
at each other, when they are not browbeating the enlisted men 
under them, and who spend their time in seeking promotion by 
such means. 

Are the Philippines in our possession because we really 
wanted or needed them ? 



260 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

Do we need them now ? 

Have we so many boys and so much money to spare ? 

Are there no places in all this great country where a few ex- 
tra million dollars could be |3pent to aid, clothe, feed, educate 
and improve the general circumstances of our own people ? 

Do the Filipinos want us there? 

Do we want them here to run the lUnited States ? 

Did we want the British to run the United States in 1812 ? 

Did Spain have the absolute right to sell the Philippines to 
us? 

Were they Spain's to sell? 

Are the Philippines ours because we have acquired them 
according to the sentiment of the Declaration of Independence ? 

Are they ours because a "bunch" of men, sent to Paris to 
represent our government, did more than their duty, and so 
compromised us that we are now burdened with a "white ele- 
phant" ? 

Is it because of honor that we keep the islands ? 

Is it more honorable to "lick" them into submission or sub- 
due them with kindness by giving them what they desire and 
what is, perhaps, already theirs before God? 

The above questions and suggestions were recently asked 
me and made by a farmer living in the state of Iowa. Some 
of them interested me, as they show, ;to a certain extent, the 
general situation from different points of view. 

These questions do not state or intimate in the smallest de- 
gree my own opinion, which has been previously stated in 
these words: "I believe the hand of God directed the Philip- 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 261 

pine movement, and it is a noble thing for a great and glorious 
nation, like the United States, to take charge of and save eight 
million people, even though, in their blindness, it is necessary 
to force them into submission." To these words I will add 
the other half of my opinion, heretofore unexpressed: "Be- 
cause of their ignorance, it may be necessary to force the Fili- 
pinos into submission to our rule, but, if this great country 
desires to continue in the grace of God, it is our duty to give 
to the Filipino what is rightfully his; and if we wish the 
spirits of George Washington, Abraham Lincoln and William 
HcKinley to smile upon us in commendation from above, we 
will show finally to these poor, downtrodden people the active 
sentiments of mercy, in granting them liberty, freedom and 
peace." 

These are the respective conditions loved most by the presi- 
dents named above. Presidents who proved, each in his time, 
their superiority and greatness. Taken collectively their 
natural sentiments, known by every school boy in America, 
should weigh heavily in the Philippine decision. Could we 
err in following their sentiments, which must be echoed in the 
hearts of American people? 

Emilio Aguinaldo, about 32 years of age, is a man of un- 
usual intelligence. He was born in the province of Cavite, 
near Manila, where he received most of his education, and 
where after a brief period of study in Hong Kong, he began 
the practice of law. 

He joined the insurgents early in 1897, in which year the 
famous "pacification" of the Philippines was negotiated, 



262 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

Aguinaldo and his followers receiving about four hundred 
thousand dollars in Spanish money, equal to nearly half that 
amount in United States currency, for their promise to cease 
hostilities and assist the Spanish in pacification. The Spanish, 
on their part, were to grant certain reforms, including the 
restrictions of a power exercised by religious orders, Catholic, 
etc., and impartiality of justice and law between Spanish and 
native contestants. 

The Spanish did not carry out their elaborate promises of 
reform, but instead used every available opportunity to irri- 
tate and humiliate the Filipinos. The religious orders were 
given increased power, vacancies of bishoprics being filled by 
priests of those orders most offensive to the insurgents. 

The Spanish officer in command in Manila, General Rivera, 
executed many insurgent leaders and persons who by the 
treaty he had promised to protect, endeavoring by this method 
to break the bonds of insurrection. The Spanish presented 
him with the Grand Cross of San Fernando, in recognition 
of his services in establishing peace in the Philippines. Since 
the Spanish had kept with so little faith and endeavor their 
promises of reform, the Filipinos considered themselves freed 
from its obligations and renewed hostilities. 

It is said that Aguinaldo went to Hong Kong with several 
of his leaders and from thence to Singapore. The money ac- 
quired through his bribery by Spain was deposited in banks 
in Hong Kong and a law suit soon arose between one of his 
subordinate chiefs and himself as to its disposition. The sub- 
ordinate sued for a division of the money among the insur- 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 263 

gents according to rank. Aguinaldo claimed that the money 
was simply entrusted to his charge, to remain in the bank 
until he had tested the Spanish as to their making the reforms 
mentioned in the treaty, and if they failed to do so, it was to 
be used in prosecuting a new insurrection. The suit was set- 
tled out of court by paying the subordinate five thousand dol- 
lars, and severing his connection with Aguinaldo. No steps 
were taken by the Spanish towards the proposed reform and 
Aguinaldo is supposed to have used the money in the opera- 
tions of the following insurrection, thus demonstrating, ac- 
cording to his statement, his honorable intentions toward his 
country. He is reported as having refused money from United 
States Consul Pratt at Singapore to defray personal expenses 
upon his return to Manila. 

There were a great many stories afloat at the time as to 
Aguinaldo's real intentions concerning this money, but it is 
generally believed that he used a greater portion of it in pur- 
chasing arms, supplies, etc., with which to carry on the insur- 
rection. 

Aguinaldo was sent by Consul General Wildman, in the 
McCulloch, from Honk Kong to Manila, and landed by Ad- 
miral Dewey with a few cannon and considerable ammunition 
in Cavite, across the bay from Manila. He took possession 
immediately of an abandoned house in Cavite, and began to 
prosecute, with his daily increasing army, the action against 
the Spaniards. 

It seems that when Major General Merritt, in command of 
the American army of occupation, arrived and captured the 



264 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

city of Manila, in co-operation with the naval forces, fric- 
tion commenced with General Aguinaldo. He was not given 
the recognition he expected and resented the occupation of 
•the city of Manila by American forces. 

President McKinley instructed that no joint occupation of 
Manila was to be made with the insurgents, and that the in- 
surgents and all others must recognize the military occupa- 
tion and authority of the United States and the cessation of 
hostilities proclaimed by the president. 

Aguinaldo, from Cavite, immediately formed a dictatorial 
government, of which he was the head, appointing such officers 
as were necessary in each village or pueblo, to carry on, under 
ihis direction, the business of police, justice and tax depart- 
ments. These officers were to elect representatives from each 
province to form a revolutionary congress. Later, in June, 
1898, the government was changed to revolutionary, with the 
title of president for the executive, Aguinaldo. 

I cannot help but believe that, if the United States govern- 
ment had instructed its servant, the general in command of 
the army of occupation, to treat more friendly with Aguinaldo 
and had recognized him as a military leader and ally from 
the first, there would have been little friction with the insur- 
gents. It was but natural for Aguinaldo to resent the inde- 
pendent occupation by foreigners of his country — at least he 
felt it his country — and if sufficient, diplomacy had been used, 
it is probable that much of the bloodshed and strife that have 
marked the last four years would have been saved. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 265 

The life of this Filipino leader and the Philippine situation 
during the insurrection, up to the time of his capture, would 
take up too much space here, and, as it is not my intention 
to make this a chronicle of Philippine history, but rather a 
story of my travels around the world in the navy, I will leave 
this work to better qualified and more able writers. 

Early in March, 1901, the flagship Brooklyn had just re- 
turned from Hong Kong to Manila Bay. Up to this time, the 
numerous efforts to capture Aguinaldo had proven fruitless. 
So often had failure crowned such efforts, and as often had 
I been conversant with such attempts and false reports of 
success, that the subject had become, in the office of the com- 
mander-in-chief, one of jest and ridicule. It was believed that 
the wily insurgent leader had long since escaped from the 
islands or was dead, and he was almost, for the time being, 
forgotten. 

However, a letter was dictated to me one morning by the 
admiral's secretary, directing the United States ship Vicks- 
burg to report to the military governor for secret ser- 
vice of a few weeks' duration. The secrecy of the affair 
aroused my suspicion, and by keeping my "eyes open," a few 
hours, I finally "tumbled" that the Vicksburg was going 
south with Major General Funston, to make another attempt 
upon the liberty of Aguinaldo. I learned also that he had 
taken a company of Macabeebe scouts with him, and though 
I could not guess the particular ruse that was to be employed, 
a previous knowledge of General Funston's ways gave the 
affair considerable interest to me. 



266 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

I said nothing, however, of my suspicion, but watched dur- 
ing the next few days very closely for news of the Vicksburg. 
But nothing of particular interest occurred, and I had al- 
most given up hope when, early on the morning of March 28, 
1901, the Vicksburg was sighted steaming to the anchorage off 
Manila. 

Going to the admiral's signal bridge, I took a long glass and 
made out finally through the dim light of early morning, the 
figures of the Macabeebe scouts on the decks, and aft on the 
quarter-deck those of several officers. 

As the day broke and light came, I could make out faces 
fairly well, and closely scrutinizing those of the officers dis- 
covered two or three Filipinos among them. But it was not until 
I had watched for several minutes that, as they filed slowly 
down the gangway to a steam launch waiting there, that I 
finally recognized by memory of his picture, the great insur- 
gent leader, Aguinaldo y Famy. He appeared very much at 
ease, as near as I could tell in the distance, and from the move- 
ments of his body, I judge he was not very talkative or given 
to gestures. He did not turn his head as though in conversa- 
tion as the passed down the gangway. 

He was a little man, and as he stepped into the launch passed 
out of sight. This was the only time I ever saw him, except. 
a few days later in Manila, when I caught a glimpse- of him 
as he was being driven down the street toward the palace^ in 
a carriage, under the escort of American officers. 

His face is one that, under no circumstances that I can 
imagine, would appear common to a close observer. His eyes 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 267 

are keen, but uncommunicative. He has a rather sad. thought- 
ful countenance, and one would instantly pronounce him a 
man of deep personality. 

The record of this energetic, shrewd little fellow is won- 
derful, and I believe, if given the opportunity, he will again 
distinguish himself in whatever occupation he takes up. 



CHAPTER IX. 



THE WORK OF THE ARMY IN THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS CIVIL 

SERVICE OPPORTUNITIES FOR INVESTMENT 1 

CHANCE FOR POOR BOYS AND GIRLS. 



u 



P TO THIS TIME the army may be said to have accom- 
plished considerable in the way of bettering the condition 
of life in the Philippines. It had become firmly and 
methodically established in all the important islands. Com- 
munication by cable, telegraph and telephone, as well as by 
steamer, had brought the archipelago into a more compact 
body, lessening to a great extent the danger and privation of 
small isolated detachments, which the limited number of 
troops, compared to the territory covered, made it necessary. 

Martial law, with all its restrictions, bettered the condition 
of friendly Filipinos, and made possible the continuance of 
commercial pursuits, in a small way, necessary to their welfare. 

The army built roads, caused the cities to be cleaned, con- 
tagious diseases isolated, built hospitals and cared for the sick 
natives free of charge, upon application. It established 
schools, compelling attendance for a certain portion of the 
year, and in fact took up at first the complete control of civil as 
well as military affairs. 

Certain officials were appointed to conduct the affairs of 
provinces, and the terrible "muddle" of Philippine business 
was straightened out until it became almost manageable. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 269 

Inter-island cables were laid, light houses built and kept in 
working order. Surveys were undertaken and charts and 
maps are now available. 

It is almost beyond the power of imagination to understand 
the labor, disappointment, loss of life, danger and force nec- 
essary to bring these improvements about. With what fatigue, 
melancholy and anxiety the brave boys in brown have toiled 
away in the fierce tropical sun, through rice fields, dense jungles 
and forests. 

I have been asked, "Is it worth while, all this trouble for 
the Philippines ?" 

Emphatically, yes. From the time of Magellan the Filipino 
has had no opportunity, but has been kept down and brutally 
tyrannized. As I have said before, I believe the hand of God 
directed the Philippine movement ; and it is a noble thing for 
a great and glorious nation, such as the United States, to take 
charge of and save eight) million people. 

Army life in the islands, from the standpoint of the private 
soldier, is severe. His day runs something after the follow- 
ing manner: Rising at "reveree," about five o'clock in the 
morning, they dress and "fall in" immediately for company 
"roll call." This occupies, perhaps, ten minutes, then the 
order "fall out" is given and they prepare for breakfast. In 
about half an hour, during which time they commence to clean 
quarters, clothing and accouterments. 

At "mess call" the company falls into "single file" or "line," 
and marches past the "cook shanty," or tent, with their mess 
gear, consisting of the patent tin folding plates, and a tin 



270 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

quart cup, together with knife, fork and spoon, if they haven't 
lost them. As a man passes by he is given two slices of bread, 
if bread is available, otherwise he receives "hard tack," a 
cup of coffee or tea, and his plate filled with whatever may 
be on the bill of fare. Usually a man is permitted to return 
for a second "helping," but often there is little to help him 
to. After receiving his ration, he goes away by himself and 
makes comfort on a rock, box or the ground, as best suits his 
fancy. In barracks there are usually "standing" tables pre- 
pared. 

There is often considerable growling and mumbling about, 
meal hour by boys who were pampered at home, but the most 
of them eat what is placed before them in diplomatic silence, 
accepting philosophically the fare provided. 

They are sometimes quartered in tents, but generally in 
empty Filipino buildings or sheds. In Cebu, the company of 
the Twenty-third Infantry, of which a "townie" of mine, Duff 
Burchett, was a member, was quartered in an old Spanish 
fort near the sea. This fort, was quite old, built of heavy 
blocks of stone, the wall surrounding the quarters, cook-house, 
prison, etc., being about twenty-five feet high. On top of the 
wall was sufficient room, if need be, to drive a carriage o<r 
artillery wagons, and sentries continually paced to and fro 
along its bulwarks. 

When standing on top of this wall, one looked over a small- 
er breast-high wall, through which at proper places there were 
apertures for great guns. There were no guns mounted there 
during my visit, except saluting guns of the Twenty-third 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 271 

Infantry. Inside this fortress wall w T as a square in which 
the troops occupying the fort were mustered, fed and 
quartered. Sheds were built around under the lee of the walls 
and bamboo cots, of the Filipino pattern, served as beds. ~No 
bed clothing being used except the regular army blankets and 
mosquito bars. 

Over the entrance or gate of the fort stood a two-story 
building, probably intended originally by the Spaniards for 
officers' quarters, and part of it was so used at the time of my 
visit, but as there was only one officer in charge of the fort, 
he lived in part of the building with his American wife, the 
only American woman in Cebu at this time, while the com- 
pany of which Duff iBurchett was a member, occupied the 
main room of this entrance building or tower in the second 
story. 

My meeting with Duff Burchett was rather interesting. 
^Neither of us knew the other was in the antipodes. One even- 
ing in Cebu, when the Bennmcfton was stationed in the straits 
as a station ship, I was ashore in a restaurant when two sol- 
diers came in. I glanced up at them, and the unusual clean- 
liness, neatness and soldierly bearing of one of them, caused 
me to look closer. His face appeared dimly familiar, but, 
feeling almost certain that there could be no one of my ac- 
quaintance in Cebu, I was about to lay the thought to a re- 
semblance, when the young soldier threw back his head in a 
characteristic way and said, "I'd give a month's pay to sele 
some one from home." 



272 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

This was not an unusual statement in the Philippines ; T 
had heard it often before, but, though he paid little attention 
to me, I then knew it was my old acquaintance, Duff, from 
my home town. 

Approaching him I said, "Hello, Duff, I'll take the fifteen- 
sixty, please." 

He was too astonished for a moment to speak, but finally 
grasping my hand, he exclaimed, "Why, John Swift, that's 
the first time anybody's called me Duff in a coon's age ; where 
in the world did you come from ?" 

During the next two months Duff and I visited back and 
forth on the ship and in the fort, and had considerable enjoy- 
ment in making excursions about the city together. 

He was considered by his commanding officer as being, per- 
haps, the neatest and one of the best soldiers in Cebu, and 
for that reason was chosen to serve a considerable portion of 
his time as orderly for the general in command of the mili- 
tary forces. At "guard mount" in the mornings it is custom- 
ary to select the neatest and cleanest soldier for the general's 
orderly for the day. Duff was usually selected. 

After breakfast the soldiers take up their work of "cleaning 
up," and at nine o'clock the guard of the day is marched to 
the parade ground and amid elaborate ceremonies the old guard 
of the previous twenty-four hours marches out and the new 
guard takes their place. The officer-of-'the-guard is called the 
officer-of-the-day, and is equivalent, to the officer-of-the-deck jf 
a man-of-war. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 273 

About 10:30 a. m. the troops remaining in quarters are 
taken to parade ground and drilled until 11 :30, when they 
return to quarters. In the tropics, however, it is customary 
to drill the troops earlier in the day and late in the evening, 
allowing the hottest part of the day for rest; at least they are 
supposed to do so, but many commanding officers, like others, 
are liable to possess demoniacal temperaments, and drill the 
men in the hottest part of the day, instead of the coolest. 
Again, many officers use judgment and give their men all 
opportunity to withstand the ravages of the tropics. 

The soldiers detailed to stand guard, walk post two hours 
and are relieved for four, when they stand another two hours' 
march. They are on duty for twenty-four hours, then, on 
coming off guard, the succeeding twenty-four hours are spent 
in performing "old guard fatigue," virtually cleaning or po- 
licing camp, or other laborious duty. This adds much to the 
severe duty of the soldier. Walking post, with a heavy gun, 
"in a soldierly-like manner, keeping constantly on the alert, 
etc.," as the law requires, is extremely fatiguing, and after 
twenty-four hours of such alternating work, a soldier is in a fit 
condition to rest. But under many commanding officers, during 
my experience, he was required to clean camp, and perform 
heavy manual labor the next day after standing guard. How- 
ever, I am inclined to believe this rule did not prevail in the 
Philippines, else our soldier boys could not well bear their 
burdens. 

Let me disillusionize those who believe the soldier's duties 
are light. On the contrary, they are extremely heavy. 



274 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

A soldier on guard in the Philippines would, perhaps, be 
stationed in the suburbs by some old house or cross road, with 
orders to challenge all comers. Let the night be dark, rainy, 
with mud under foot, and rumors afloat of an uprising of the 
natives, and the poor, shivering, dripping, homesick, miser- 
able soldier, pacing back and forth across the road, trying to 
penetrate the darkness with tired, sleepy eyes, and straining 
his ears continually for the always expected cat step of a Fili- 
pino creeping up to split his head open with a bolo, and you 
have some conception of a soldier's duties. 

Discipline in the army is severe. A soldier must not sleep 
on post. He must not drink while on duty. He must treat 
his superior officer with greater respect than he feels, or the 
officer usually deserves. He must be clean, neat in uniform, 
his coat buttoned, shoes polished, and never fail to address his 
officer with "attention," the if hand salute" and "Sir." He 
must not leave quarters without' permission. Like the sailor, 
he must not whistle. The four duties of a soldier are: To 
obey, keep clean, fear God and shoot straight. 

The "guard house" for the soldier, like the "brig" for the 
sailor, holds the banner of supreme hatred. It is continually 
held over the soldier and he gets in it on slightest provocation. 
For example, a man for "disrespect to his superior officer" 
may be court-martialed and his sentence read, "thirty days in 
the guard house, in double irons, on bread and water, with 
full ration every third day, and loss of thirty days' pay." 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 275 

He has little chance of redress, if wronged, and, in my opin- 
ion, he is often made to bear the brunt of a contemptible su- 
perior's spite and maligning efforts. 

Since the beginning of our country the soldier has been her 
safeguard in supreme moments of emergency. Though the 
last resort, he is a safe one, and has saved America from de- 
pendence and ignominy on more than one occasion. 

Yet there are people, calling themselves good, honest, pa- 
triotic Americans, who hold themselves aloof from him, and 
pointing the finger of scorn, ridicule him as a fool who leaves 
a good home, perhaps to be made the tool of tyrannical su- 
periors, and suffer death or privation in foreign lands. Let 
those who feel that this shaft belongs in their breast recon- 
sider, and think of what would become of their homes, their 
little ones and themselves if all men felt so little patriotism. 

As soon as the conditions in the Philippine Islands would 
permit, Judge William H. Taft was appointed civil governor 
and the military government retired to make way for a new 
staff of civil servants. Instead of martial law, which puts a 
certain restriction on all movements, civil law became a fact 
and permitted affairs in Manila, the Philippine metropolis, to 
resume their original commercial activity. 

A civil service board was formed and discharged soldiers, 
sailors, civilians and Filipinos took examinations for govern- 
mental positions. Quite a number of Filipinos were found 
qualified and given clerkships and various other positions 
within their competency, and many of the volunteer soldiers 
who had been filling official positions at the munificent 



276 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

salary of fifteen dollars and sixty cents per month, suddenly 
found themselves earning one thousand two hundred, and 
even as high as two thousand dollars a year. 

It was a splendid way to reciprocate for their long, severe 
service for Uncle Sam, and many deserving young men were 
given the first chance of their lives to better their personal 
condition. However, it is the policy of the United States 
government, as far as I can see, to encourage the Filipino, and 
whenever one qualifies himself for a civil position he is given 
first chance. This may fill many of the lower offices, but if 
any man apply himself, it is my opinion that he will move up- 
ward to a higher place when the Filipino is ready to take his 
seat. 

It is right that the Filipino be given this encouragement — 
it is the quickest way to pacify him — educate him and give 
him a good "job." 

The postoffice, under civil government, in Manila employs 
a great many people, and does a tremendous business. Be- 
sides the regular native mail, this department handles all 
mail for the army and navy, whose branches, scattered about 
the entire archipelago, make the postoffice one of the most 
important offices in the islands. 

In the postoffice at Manila I met another of our neighbor 
boys, Mr. Beard, of Moulton, Iowa, who entered civil service 
from the army, and is rapidly striding forward toward fame 
in his department. He has an excellent position, in charge, 
when I left Manila, of the city box department, and is one of 
the smartest lads I have met. Though we were not acquainted 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 277 

prior to our meeting in Manila, it seemed good to meet some 
one from near home, and we became good friends. 

Hurrah for old Iowa ! Everywhere I met a boy or man 
from this state he was about two steps ahead of the others. 

While I am on this subject let me remark that the above state- 
ment is none too broad, for this reason — Iowa spends large sums 
of money for educational purposes, therefore her boys have com- 
paratively good educations, and are better qualified in general 
to hold positions. 

Let Iowa keep on spending her money for schools, and as 
long as she does, she will have good reports from the boys 
who may go to other parts of the world. 

The postoffice has established sub-offices at many of the more 
important little towns. The government has for convenience 
divided its territory into provinces or districts, with judges, 
treasurers, tax collectors, etc., which positions are nearly all 
open to bright Americans. 

In brief, the business affairs of the Philippines are con- 
ducted by the civil government and its laws are enforced by the 
military authorities, whenever their intervention is necessary. 

Under the civil government come the heads of justice, reve- 
nue, improvement, maintenance of public works and general 
finance of the archipelago. 

Justice is obtained through much the same process, with 
judges, jury, lawyers, etc., as the people of the United States 
endeavor to obtain it, with, I presume, much the same general 
result. For example: Don Miguel has a piece of land; Jim 
White wants it ; Jim looks through the rather unreliable Span- 



278 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

ish archives in Manila and finds there is some little "hitch" 
in the title of the property. So Jim employs a "jack-leg" 
lawyer to "snake" the land, and if poor old ignorant Don 
don't "look out," it will certainly, as a little boy I knew said, 
"git snuck." 

Revenues I am not personally posted about, but have heard 
a number of times that the government of the islands get them, 
if somebody else don't get them first. Of course, they run the 
risk of coming in second to collectors and agents of the in- 
surgents, as well as the church. I know personally, in my 
official capacity, of a certain English company in Borneo, who 
sent tax collectors over to a certain province on one of the 
islands and collected considerable tax money. This seemed so 
ridiculous to me at the time that I did not believe the papers 
before my eyes, but they were written by an army officer; so, 
of course, there can be no error. At least it is not generally 
believed that a graduate of West Point would lie. 

Improvement is carried on by appointing boards to inves- 
tigate reports of improvements advisable from various sources, 
and if the board reports favorably, they are empowered to 
carry out their recommendations or another board appointed 
for that purpose. For example : A large sum of money has 
been appropriated to improve the harbor of Manila; another 
to build light houses; another to survey the archipelago, and 
countless others of minor importance. 

While the army is engaged in the pacification of the islands, 
the civil government is pushing them to a higher plane of ex- 



AROUND THK WORLD IM THE NAVY 279 

cellence in many ways, and their labors are of equal impor- 
tance with those of the army. 

Maintenance of public works and finance are carried on 
much the same as the improvement of the islands, and judg- 
ing from what is plainly evident, Governor Taf t and his aides 
do not labor in vain. There is tremendous improvement to 
be seen since he assumed control throughout the entire arch- 
ipelago. 

By releasing the army from this work of government, a 
great many officers and men were made available for line 
duty, and therefore, a smaller force is required than would 
be necessary under the old management. 

In Manila you will see the neatest uniformed and as hand- 
some a force of American and Filipino police imaginable. 
They wear "kaki" blouses, trousers, and caps, with tan col- 
ored leather leggins, and carry a heavy revolver and short 
club. They are very neat and "up-to-date," and are quick 
to make arrests. They have the reputation of arresting at 
once any offender of the law. 

Nearly all of the white police were "picked" men from 
the army, who preferred to accept a position to returning 
home upon the expiration of their enlistment. Their pay is 
about fifty dollars per month. 

The civil service pays good salaries, and the appointments 
are intended to be fair to all. A bookkeeper will receive from 
the first about eight hundred to sixteen hundred dollars a 
year. Stenographers and clerks receive about the same pay. 
In brief, the pay of public employes is some better than in 



280 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

the United States, but as living is more expensive there, the 
pay remains in the end about the same. 

If one desires to enter civil service in the Philip- 
pines, he must apply to Washington and take the 
examination here in the United States or go to Manila and 
take it there. The examinations, at the time I left Manila, 
were not very stringent, on account of the difficulty in securing 
competent people to fill the great number of vacancies. How- 
ever, people are flocking into Manila in considerable numbers 
and civil service conditions will, no doubt, early assume the 
same proportions they have in the United States. For 
this reason prospective applicants had best take examinations 
here and receive appointments before leaving their homes. 

The lives of civil service employes in the city of Manila 
are tolerably pleasant. They have good hours, the work is 
clean and always interesting. It is the intention of the gov- 
ernment to erect houses, cold storages, and many other public 
affairs, to add comfort and convenience to the lives of their 
employes. 

One great trouble in the lives of such people, when I vis- 
ited at Manila, was the difficulty of obtaining fresh beef and 
provisions. There are not sufficient markets and trucksters to 
accommodate the people with good, clean, fresh food at living 
prices. It is hard to get a meal in Manila for less than one 
Mexican dollar, equal to about half a dollar in United States 
currency; and such a meal could be furnished here for from 
ten to fifteen cents. If men of capital were to build cold stor- 
age there and ship from Australia or San Francisco meat and 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 281 

provisions and furnish theni at a reasonable profit, life in 
Manila would be improved considerably. 

The opportunities in the Philippines at present for invest- 
ment of capital are excellent. The islands are rich in timber, 
hard and soft woods, minerals, coal, copper, zinc, gold and 
silver, and the soil in natural ability for production. 

For a capital of one million dollars stock, opportunities are 
open in the following lines, which are necessary to the comfort 
of the people and improvement of the islands : Copper mines, 
stone and marble quarries, saw mills, furniture factories, cold 
storages for meats and provisions, contracts for improvement 
of roads, bridges, harbors, cities and building of houses and 
bridges. Telegraph lines, cables, telephones, railroads, street 
railways, inter-island steamer lines, all offer opportunities for 
safe investment, and considerable return. 

To those with smaller amounts of capital, ranging down 
to twenty thousand dollars, there are a multitude of oppor- 
tunities. Manila needs a fifty thousand dollar hotel. It needs 
a commercial college; a first-class theatre, first-class business 
buildings ; a skyscraper would be filled with tenants before 
it was half built, or even started, if it were advisable to erect 
so great a structure in an earthquake-disturbed locality, which 
is questionable. Not to enumerate further, I will say that the 
Philippines, if continued under the control of the United 
States, offer the best opportunities for men of capital of any 
part of the world I have visited. 

Then think of the chances for men below the twenty thou- 
sand mark, on down to two thousand ; shoes, clothing, gro- 



282 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

ceries, meat, medicine, household goods, furniture, "especially 
American beds," and, in fact, everything that is required by 
people here in the summer, offer inducements to those who will 
export them to or manufacture them in the Philippines. 

There are thousands of opportunities there for men with 
a little money and a man with no money might make it all right, 
but if they desire to ever see their native land and loved ones 
again, I advise men with no pull, money or education, to 
keep away from the Philippines. There are thousands there 
now who are willing to spend months at the most humiliating 
and fatiguing .toil to pay their way back home. Some are des- 
perate and will take almost any risk to reach home again. 

In connection with this subject, I wish to say to any man 
or woman of wealth who may, perchance, read this, and who 
have made more money than they need and are inclined !to 
help their fellow-men, get together others of your kind and 
send some poor, honest, sensible young man out to the Phil- 
ippines to act as your agent. Use your influence with ithe 
government and have an arrangement made by which destitute 
men may return from Manila to America. If you do not 
wish to pay their fares outright, and of course it would not 
be advisable, let them sign contracts to return the amount out 
of their first year's wages upon return to America, and let 
your order or society secure them positions here. This would 
give you, perhaps, a new interest in life, and God would bless 
you for such efforts. 

Of course, as society advances in the islands, poor men 
will have better chances, and there may be no necessity later 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 283 

to help them get home, but this will, I feel sure, be some 
distance in the future, and in the meantime, many poor, 
honest men who go out on the other side of the world expecting 
to make fortunes, and instead become destitute, will not have 
to die for want of a few dollars with which to pay their fare 
home again. Such a measure as I have mapped out would, 
of course, be truly a charitable one, but such charity, though 
scarce, is God-like. 

There is an excellent field for money-making and pleasant 
occupation in the pursuit of planting in the islands. Hemp, 
tobacco, rice and fruit are about the best branches of the 
business of cultivation from a money standpoint. With an 
investment of from five to ten thousand dollars, a planter can 
make himself independent with a larger income, less risk and 
more pleasant occupation, than in nearly any business he 
might engage in at the present time. While I do not advocate 
the risk of an American's life by over six continuous years of 
residence in the Philippines, if he owns a paying plantation, 
he may spend three or four months of each year in near-by 
Japan, which will prepare him for the balance of the year's 
constant physical strain in the islands. 

My experience and observation show that there is a con- 
stant drain on the system of a white man in the tropics, 
which necessitates a change of climate of at least once in 
three years and preferably more often. ' 

Japan, being within easy communication, with several lines 
of steamers plying between Hong Kong and Japanese ports, 
with others between Manila and Hong Kong, makes a suitable 



284 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

and pleasant summer resort, easy of access. In previous chap- 
ters I have endeavored to portray in her true colors picturesque 
and delightful little Japan. 

It seems to me that I should desire no better opportunity to 
advance myself in this world's affairs, while at the same time 
have the opportunity of doing good for others, than to own 
a plantation on the islands of either Luzon, Panay or ISTegros. 

It may be a year of two before a man would be safe in tak- 
ing his family to the Philippines, but he would not be war- 
ranted in taking a woman and children there at first in any 
event. He should go first alone, and gain some knowledge of 
conditions and prospects, as the state of affairs in the islands 
opposes in general those of the United States. 

I believe a magnificent home could soon be made there. 
With nature to assist in all her abundance of verdure, a very 
small minimum of labor would repay tenfold the planter and 
home-maker who aimed at prosperity and luxury. Trees are 
ever green, flowers blossom the year around; every little bush 
has a wealth of foliage. Imagine the beauty that could be brought 
to adorn a home with every conceivable tropical growth trained 
and cultivated to meet one's desire. 

Sugar is an important product, and cane thrives in nearly 
all parts of the archipelago. 

Under such conditions as I have imagined a planter, he would 
necessarily he required only to oversee his possessions. White 
men do not perform manual labor in countries that are in- 
habited by colored races. While the Filipino is not a fool, he 
naturally values himself unusually beneath a white man, or, 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 285 

if he does not so place his value, he at least is generally willing 
to serve the white man for a little "filthy lucre." 

The money used in the Philippines is not preferable to 
United States currency in commercial affairs. First, it fluc- 
tuates in value ; second, it is bulky ; third, it is not the money 
of the country. However, the United States money is used 
considerably, and will finally, I believe, generally replace the 
Mexican and Spanish currency. 

The native costumes and foreign language detract from 
the convenience of business associations between the American 
and themselves, but they are tractable, when friendly, and 
learn readily the language of their white superiors. 

Though not very strong, generally they make very good ser- 
vants, and though treacherous they will readily adapt them- 
selves to our ways. 

At any rate, they are human, and, no doubt, would ap- 
preciate, to a certain extent, humane treatment ; I have found 
humane treatment one of the best aids in dealing with ig- 
horant, partly or wholly uncivilized people everywhere in 
my travels. They can feel, like us, and, poor fellows, though 
they get little kindness from white men, I have seen them be- 
come extremely friendly upon the receipt of a kind word. 

The Filipinos are intelligent and make up in that charac- 
teristic what they lack in physical strength. 

Perhaps money is to be made quicker in some of the more 
distant inlands or lower southern parts of the archipelago. 
Isla de Mindiano is said to be rich in placer gold, and Zam- 
boanga, Cebu, Illilo and many other southern cities greatly 



286 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

need and would abundantly remunerate the capitalist for in- 
vestment of a little money in ice machines, cold storage, etc. 
Now is unquestionably the time for prospective investors 
to go to the islands. In fact, capital and brains are joining 
forces there every day, and soon the best opportunities will 
have been taken. 

CHANCE FOB POOB BOYS AND GIBX,S. 

The Philippines offer inducement in some ways to young 
men and women of brains, even if they have little money. The 
civil service pays well, and they are extremely anxious to have 
bright young people come to the islands. 

A bright, energetic, forceful boy or girl, who can pass the 
examinations given by the civil service at Washington, in the 
Philippine branch, stands a good show to go to 'Manila for two 
years at a salary of one thousand to two thousand dollars a 
year with passage paid both ways. Of course, if they wish 
to return to the United States, before the expiration of their 
contract, their return passage money is forfeited, therefore, I ad- 
vise boys and girls to have on deposit three hundred dollars or 
more in Manila, as the effect of the tropical climate on their 
constitution is uncertain. 

"Rooms are a little scarce in Manila, but they can be found, 
and are generally large, airy and can be made, at little ex- 
pense, very pleasant. 

Unlike America, it is hard to find furnished rooms to rent 
in the Philippines. But there are plenty of stone houses in 
healthy locations. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 287 

The houses are generally built so that the living rooms are 
all in the second story, only using the lower part for storage 
purposes. This custom is due to the extreme heat of the tropics, 
as air circulates more freely among the second stories. 

If some bright Yankee could devise means to insure "sky- 
scrapers," against the action of earthquakes, their adoption 
in Manila would be immediate, as building space on the prin- 
cipal streets is entirely inadequate. I noticed a few large build- 
ings and hotels in Manila that were four or five stories high. 
They were built of stone and appeared to be perfectly secure. 

Living would cost about forty dollars a month in American 
money. As a rule the young men of my acquaintance in Manila 
live a half a dozen or so together, occupying an entire house, 
which saves them considerable annoyance from house neighbors 
of foreign speech. 

During my stay in Manila society was not plenty on account 
of the scarcity of American women. But, during the latter 
part of 1900, a number of families and school teachers came 
out, adding much to the pleasure of life in Manila. Taken 
out of the sound of lovely woman's voice, out of sight of her 
face and figure, man is a poor stick, indeed. He is a bur- 
den to himself as well as to other people. 

The last year has done much to make Manila habitable and 
affairs there are daily improving. 

In conclusion of this subject, I will advise all people, espe- 
cially inexperienced boys and girls, that if you accept posi- 
tions in the Philippines, assure yourselves, before leaving 
home, that your return passage is certain at any time it may 



288 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

be necessary to come. The climate may suit you and it may 
not. You should either have three hundred dollars in gold 
deposited in a Manila bank, and keep it there as before men- 
tioned, or a contract with the government or a responsible 
firm to send you back to the United States within thirty days' 
notice. Do not go, unless you have this assurance. 

With brains and a good government position, young men 
and women may do well, but by all means, do not place your- 
self in a position that will leave you penniless in Manila. 
Money in a bank here in the United States is not much good. 
Better have it where you can get it at any time. I would not 
wish to "tackle" the Philippines with less than one thousand 
dollars a year assured besides the bank deposit. 

CAVITE. 

Cavite is a place often mentioned in matters pertaining to 
the Philippines, and I doubt if the general public quite under- 
stand its exact location and importance. Manila Bay is very 
large — so large that one cannot see across the water, except 
the mountain tops on the opposite side. The city of Manila 
lies at the extreme eastern end and Cavite lies around the 
shore of the bay to the southwest on a narrow point of land 
projecting out into the bay. 

During the occupation of Spain, Cavite was used as a naval 
base and magazines were located there. They built quite an 
extensive fort and kept a good many prisoners in the ill smell- 
ing, foul dungeons underneath its walls. Cavite is a town of, 
perhaps, five hundred natives. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 289 

At present the United States Navy has its repair shops and 
storehouses there. The little captured Spanish gunboats are 
all repaired there, but all ships of the Bennington class and 
upward are too large to be drawn upon the ways, and have 
to be sent to China or Japan for docking. 

A short time before my return to the United States, I vis- 
ited Cavite. It was on a very hot afternoon that Arthur Bab- 
cock, the captain's writer of the Brooklyn; Howard Gage, an 
apothecary, his friend Clark, another of his profession, and 
I left the flagship for an afternoon's stroll on the beach and a 
visit to the cemetery in the suburbs of the town. 

The streets of the town were dusty. Tired, thirsty dogs lay 
panting in the shade of the old Spanish fort wall, with their 
swollen tongues hanging out of their mouths. Naked Fili- 
pino children sprawled upon the beach under those grand old 
shade trees that fill the little park along the shore, and water 
buffalo wallowed in the hot sand and water of the bay, with, 
perhaps, the erroneous idea that it was cooler than the air. 

Everything seemed parched. One drank water and lost 
it almost immediately through the pores of the skin, by per- 
spiration. 

It ivas not a particularly lively day to strike out with the 
intention of enjoying a stroll, but with the assistance of our 
friend Clark, who because of his jokes was an important per- 
sonage that day, we managed to make up quite a cheerful party. 

Gage and Clark had just come out from the United States 
to begin each a four year cruise, and we were showing them 



290 AROUND THK WORLD IN THE NAVY 

the sights and relating stories of battles, skirmishes, etc., as we 
pointed out the localities in which they had occurred. 

Out through the west gate of the city we passed over the 
narrow isthmus, connecting Cavite with the mainland, over 
which Aguinaldo was chased back and forth by the Americans 
at the outset of the insurrection. From this spot I pointed out 
to the left another narrow neck of land over which I witnessed 
a skirmish one afternoon. First the United States marines 
would fire a few shells from a four-inch field piece into the 
trenches of the insurgents at the other end, then Aggie's in- 
surgents would charge bravely across, until stopped by a fusi- 
lade of lead or steel from the marines. Then their retreat 
would resemble a school boys' scramble after a ball or away 
from a skunk's nest. Then both parties would lie on their 
arms and grit their teeth until courage worked up to about 
"one hundred and eighty," when the performance would be 
repeated. ' 

However, everything was quiet this day, and heat was the 
only enemy we had to contend with. As we advanced it grew 
terrific. Off came our coats, collars, shirts open at the neck 
and periods of rest in the shade grew more frequent. 

Presently we came to a very long, narrow lane, out in the 
country, where the trees lined either side and the branches, 
meeting overhead, formed an archway nearly a quarter of a 
mile in length. The air was perfectly delightful. What a 
change from the burning sun to the cool shady avenue of 
branches ! 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 291 

Clark remarked that it was like going from Chicago to 
Philadelphia. 

As we strolled down this cool sweet smelling lane of green 
boughs and flowers, they told us of the United States. What 
new songs were being sung and whistled on the streets, of new 
books, plays, prevailing styles of clothing — the young men 
were wearing shirt waists — shirt), waists! think of it; shirt 
waists, like the girls ; oh, the sissies. 

Clark whistled a little piece that I found perfectly charm- 
ing. He told me it was over a year old and had been sung 
to death — it was entitled "Little Georgia Rose." 

At the end of the avenue, we came suddenly upon an old 
Catholic church in ruins, with a cemetery at its rear. This was 
enclosed by a wall of, perhaps, eight feet in height, with broken 
pieces of glass stuck into cement on its top to keep out ma- 
rauders. 

An old Filipino sexton and his aged wife were in attendance 
and very politely opened the gate for us to enter. Leading the 
way he passed around the church among the graves. 

There were many ordinary mounds with odd, ancient looking 
stones, inscribed in Spanish; but most interesting to me was 
the famous Filipino sepulchres. On the inside the wall was 
built out to a thickness of, perhaps, ten feet, sloping on top 
from the wall down to about six feet high in front. All along 
the face of this projecture of the wall was built or cut in, every 
few feet, in double tier, square holes large enough to admit a 
coffin which could be pushed back endways out of sight when a 



292 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

marble plate could be placed over the aperture, on which the 
necessary inscriptions are placed. 

Many of these pigeon-holes, as Clark called them, were cov- 
ered with such marble plates., We read the inscriptions on some 
of them ; simply the name, dates of birth and death, and some 
little verse or epitaph. 

A few of the openings had no coverings and we could look 
in upon the coffins. They were odd shaped affairs and looked 
as though they had been used for many years. I have no doubt 
but that they had been used for more than one corpse, as it is 
the Spanish custom, when relatives of the deceased fall in ar- 
rears with the rent for a sepulchre, the bones of the dead are 
taken out and thrown in a pile of other such delinquents in a 
corner of the yard reserved for that purpose. 

I visited such a corner in this yard and found amid great 
tall, strange rank weeds a pile of human skulls, femurs, ribs, 
etc., on one of which there was some decayed flesh that caused 
us soon to retreat. 

At one grave in place of a headstone there was a bushel 
basket filled with white polished skulls. I picked one out and 
was going to try to buy it, when it accidentally slipped from 
my hand to the ground. One of the boys said "Oh! don't 
take him; he don't want to go." 

I did not believe the skull had any motive or power to act 
on its own account but, as it was not a complete specimen, I 
replaced it in the basket, much to the relief of my friend. 

However, some time previous to this, in Lingayen Gulf, 
Luzon, when General Wheaton, with 2,300 men jumped into 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 293 

the water and waded ashore under fire from the insurgents, 
while the Bennington and five other ships bombarded the coast, 
I offered a friendly old Filipino, who came off with fruit to 
sell, two dollars to get me the head of one of the killed Fili- 
pinos, and after cleaning it, bring it off to me. 

The next time we visited there he brought off a skull and I 
paid him as I agreed, but it looked old and weather worn, and 
I feel sure it was one he had purloined from some cemetery. 



CHAPTEE X. 

CRUISE OF INSPECTION CHINA, JAPAN, KOREA AND SIBERIA 

RUSSIAN MILITARISM YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 



w 



ITH THE Kentucky's thirteen thousand dollars we pro- 
ceeded to China and Japan for an extended cruise of 
inspection, with regard to the fortifications, defenses, 
adaptability for shelter, and indication of uprising of the 
Chinese. 

On the evening of September 26, 1901, the Brooklyn 
weighed anchor and got under way for Nagasaki, Japan. The 
weather was clear and pleasant, sea calm but all hands were 
inclined to growl at another of the Brooklyn's frequent 
Changes, which added work and delays in receiving mails from 
home. 

WHY TAD SHIPPED OVER. 

The heat had been terrific during the previous week, and all 
hands were in the sulks. It is true the band was) playing on 
the quarter deck, but we had heard every piece on the program 
at least fifty times, so its only effect was to make one wish 
that particular part of the ship where the dago musicians sat 
would sink and stow them away in Davy's locker. 

Partly because I liked him, and partly because he owned 
an electric fan, I dropped into the captain's writer's office, 
about seven bells of the second dog watch, for a chat with him. 
Tad was a clever fellow and thoroughly entertaining. I found 
him lounging in the big office chair with his feet planted as high 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 295 

as he could well get them against the bulkhead; his coat off, 
shirt thrown open at the neck, sleeves rolled to tKs elbows, 
with the fan running four bells and a jingle square in his 
face. The breeze kept his long black hair standing on end, 
and he gave me the impression of a jinrickashaw man from 
Nagasaki. [But he was comfortable, and he didn't care who 
knew it. 

Taking a seat on the typewriter stool, I suggested that he 
either spin a yarn or swipe some ice-water from the captain's 
steward, in order that we might make it possible to cheer up. 
Running his fingers through his long hair, he smiled lazily and 
contentedly as the cool air penetrated to the scalp, and offered 
to match me to see who was to steal the ice and water. I 
won. While he was working the steward, I sent the orderly 
across to the flag office with an invitation for Schnitz to come 
over and partake of the cooling refreshment, with permission 
to bring his own cigarettes. Schnitz came, double time, and 
planting himself in his usual seat, a reclining cane chair in 
the corner, placed his feet on top of the desk and lit a ciga- 
rette. 

Presently Tad came in with a pitcher of water and a big 
chunk of ice. I suggested that some one spin a yarn while the 
water was cooling. 

No one replied, so Schnitz suggested that Tad tell us why 
he had re-enlisted in the navy. 

It seemed to hit him right, for he took out five cigarettes 
and laid them on the desk in a row, ready to replace the one 
he was smoking when required. 



296 AROUND THE WORLD IN THH NAVY 

We all made ourselves comfortable, because five cigarettes 
meant a twenty minutes' yarn. 

"Well, mates," he drawled, lazily, "perhaps you remember 
that during my last cruise, I kept up a hot fire of correspond- 
ence with a trim little craft in Ohio. Romance, I think, was 
my principal incentive. Though I had been told most all 
about her life from the cradle up, and had been corresponding 
with her for about five years, through a series of unaccountable 
interventions, I had somehow never managed to meet her. 
Something was wrong each time an effort had been made for 
us to meet, so I finally drifted into the navy without having 
set eyes on her, and came half way around the world to help 
Dewey scoff the Spaniards, and later to spank the wayward 
Filipino. 

"Well, she sent me a photo, and in return I sent her a. pic- 
ture of my friend Jones. You remember he resembled me 
somewhat. 

"She wrote me how handsome it was, and how she kissed 
the picture every night before hammocks, and all that sort of 
business; an' I laughed, and laughed, like a fool. Never oc- 
curred to me once that I hadn't done a smart thing. I pic- 
tured, in my own mind, how surprised she'd be when I stepped 
off the train at her home ; for I had an idea, mates, that I was 
just a little more likely look'n than old chaw Jones. It was 
one of my chief pleasures to remind my old chum, daily, that 
he was too slow to catch the measles. 

"But, mates, I really loved that girl, though I had not seen 
her; and saved every cent I got with the intention of keeping 
my promise of starting up some modest business in civil life 
and marrying her when I was paid off. 

"Laddies, you know I always was a fool — couldn't keep a 
good thing to myself — so told Jones all about the affair, and 
that I had sent his picture as a con. 

"He laughed at me, and explained carefully, for the thou- 
sandth and one time, that I certainly was a blamed fool. 

"As you probably remember, I became anxious as my time 
grew shorter ; was terribly in love with her. Used to write every 
week and she did likewise. Her letters wouldn't show up for 
about three months, then we'd get a mail, and they'd have to use 
the steam crane to get mine aboard. 



AROUND THB WORLD IN THE NAVY 297 

"We had plans all made, how she was to meet me at the train, 
and if we liked each other on sight, we were to get married 
within a week. In fact, we had prearranged every detail. 

"I kept her letters in my desk, but never locked it; for, to 
my mind it was not possible that any man would be mean 
enough to read them. 

"Finally my time had shortened down to six months. Jones, 
having enlisted three months prior to me, was to go home in 
the Solace the trip before I could go. We had been chums 
all our lives and neither had any secrets from the other. 

"Well, I went with him on board the Solace and helped to 
carry his curios. He was very kind, and agreed to take a box 
of fine Chinaware I had purchased in Japan to Miss Waldron 
for me. He bade me goodbye with tears in his eyes — one mo- 
ment, lads, till I light fires on a new one — but promised to 
meet me immediately upon my arrival in America ; and the 
Solace steamed out of the bay the next morning with her home- 
ward-bound pennant trailing back a hundred yards in the 
breeze. 

"It was pretty lonely for me during the next few months, 
and my only consolation was the letters. I did not write 
about my friend Jones coming with the Chinaware, as I want- 
ed her to be surprised with the present of a fine tea set from 
the other side of the world. 

"Slowly the time dragged along, till finally one grand, beau- 
tiful morning orders came for me to return by the Solace, which 
vessel had again reached Manila to take another load of short- 
timers to 'Frisco. 

"Lord, mates ! You know how happy I was ! I remember 
shaking hands and saying goodbye to Schnitz six times, and I 
guess I would have kept it up until now if the officer-of-the- 
deck hadn't ordered me in no gentle manner to 'get into the 
launch,' which was alongside waiting to take me to the Solace. 

"One moment, lads, this bloom'n cigarette has a streak of 
rag in it ; I'll have to take another, I guess." 

I am not sure, but I thought I saw a tear in Tad's eye, and 
somehow got the idea that the fault was not wholly that of the 
cigarette. However, I may have been mistaken. 

"Smooth voyage all the way. Japanese Inland Sea, Yoko- 
hama, Honolulu, in fact we took in all the sights enroute, and 
had a most pleasant voyage. I think I was the happiest man 
in all those waters. 



298 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

"On arriving at Mare Island, California, it was a great dis- 
appointment not to find Chum there, as he promised to meet 
me; but I was nappy and, after getting a new outfit of shore 
clothes at 'Frisco, went on board a sixty knot train bound for 
Ohio. 

"Three days later, she hove slowly into port; let go both 
anchors, banked fires and all hands went ashore. 

"I had telegraphed from Chicago to my girl on just what 
train I should arrive, and was again disappointed that there "was 
no one to meet me. However, I was not one to feel bad over 
such a little thing; but then a sudden fear came over me that 
she might be ill. 

"I chartered a four-wheeled cutter, anchored alongside, and 
gave the coxswain hurry-up orders to steam for Miss Wal- 
dron's anchorage. 

"Pretty soon we hove in sight of a full rigged house, sur- 
rounded by several cables' length of park. I had always held 
the idea that she was not wealthy, so asked the coxswain who 
lived there. 

"He told me Mr. Waldron. 

"It seemed a queer coincident, — the names, but it occurred 
to me that my Miss Waldron must be — Oh, Lord! — perhaps 
she was the cook! 

"Well, we dropped anchor, and I was put ashore with my bag 
and hammock. Didn't like the looks of the coast, and had half 
a notion to go aboard again and put back to sea, so I ordered 
the cut ter to stand by and to clear ship for action, while I rec- 
onnoitered, to learn, if possible, the exact status of the enemy. 

"Finally I picked up courage and my luggage and got under 
way, steering due south, direct for the front porch ; rang the 
bell and asked the servant if I could see Miss Waldron, .'at 
the same time keeping a weather eye out for squalls, for she 
was Irish and homely as a Filipino without a G-string, and 
I didn't know but she might be Miss Waldron ! 

"She told me Miss Waldron was — one minute, laddies, till 
I light up another fool-killer. 

"Where was I ?" 

I told him the servant was telling him Miss Waldron was — 

"Oh, yes ! She said iMiss Waldren was not at home. 
"I asked if I might see either her father or mother, and she 
invited me in to wait until my card was presented. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 299 

"While waiting I saw the photo of Jones lying on the 
library table with my name written across the corner, and 
laughed softly to myself, thinking how funny it would be when 
my Miss Waldron returned, probably in a few moments, and 
found out my deception. 

"Presently the door opened and an elderly gentleman came 
in. 

"I stepped forward and introduced myself as Mr. Tad^ who 
had been engaged to his daughter so long by mail, stating that 
I had just returned from Manila to keep my promise to her. 

"He held a telegram in his hand, which was shaking ner- 
vously, and he was very pale. It was quite likely the telegram 
announcing the time of my arrival. He said there must be 
some mistake ; that I could not be Mr. Tad, for he had arrived 
some weeks before ; that the marriage had taken place, and 
bride and groom were then on their wedding tour in Europe. 

"Suddenly, it all came to me like a flash. I pointed to the 
picture on the table and asked if that was Mr. Tad. 

"He said that it was; and no doubt took me for a lunatic, 
for I immediately weighed anchor and got under way. Hooked 
up all boilers, lashed the wheel to the course, and never stopped 
even for coal till I reached Manila 'Bay ; and here I am. 

"But to think, laddies, that my old shipmate, who has shared 
my last ten cents, Mexican, many a time, is now traveling in 
Europe under my name, spending her money and receiving her 
caresses ; and all the time she does not, and perhaps never will, 
know that the real Tad is still in the Philippines. 

"Well, mates, this cigarette has gone out, so let us tackle 
the ice-water, before I melt and escape through the scupper 
into the salt of this confounded bay." 

The Brooklyn visited the ports respectively of Chefu, China, 
Chemulpo, Korea, Vladivostok, Siberia, and Hakodate, Japan. 

CHEFU, CHINA. 

During the Boxer uprising of 1900, Chefu was the cable 
base, or point from which dispatches from Tien Tsin and Pe- 
king were forwarded to Washington. Taku being the naval 
base, the commander-in-chief on the Brooklyn received tele- 
grams from the army authorities ashore, and preparing them 



300 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

in cipher on the regular form, sent them by the daily dispatch 
boat of the allied powers, detailed each day in turn, to the 
cable operators at Chefu, who forwarded them on to Washing- 
ton. 

As you pass into the anchorage off Chefu, the city appears 
at the base of a small mountain on the left. Winding round the 
city and up the side of this mountain, the city wall can be seen 
curling snake-like around knolls and gullies, until at the sum- 
mit it is lost in the clouds, as it passed on over the peak. 

Flags of various nations can be made out high on staffs 
above the city, marking the location of separate representa- 
tives or consuls, "old glory" waving among the rest, at the 
residence of the United States consul, Mr. John Fowler. 

The Brooklyn found insufficient depth of water to go close 
in, but the view of Chefu from her anchorage was superb. 
Green grass carpeted the mountain side, marked here and there 
by a white stone building, high above the city, making the pic- 
ture in colors a perfect dream of loveliness. Near this place 
the great battleship Oregon grounded on her way to Taku at 
the opening of hostilities in China. 

'During the China trouble of 1900, Chefu was considered 
a comparatively safe residence for foreigners, and thousands 
passed through on their way to Shanghai, the principal city 
of refuge. 

SHANGHAI, CHINA. 

Though Shanghai was not visited on this voyage, I spent a 
few days there earlier in the year, and deem this a proper place 
to describe it. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 301 

The men were given liberty here, going ashore in the gaud- 
ily painted sampans, and were landed in about six inches of 
soft, oily Chinese mud. One custom that merits remark is 
that of painting eyes on the bows of their craft, for as they 
say, "no have eyes, no can see ; no can see, no can sabe : no can 
sabe, all bloke," and it pleased them greatly when they saw the 
letter on our boats, thinking, no doubt, that we were at last 
acknowledging their superior wisdom and painting double eyes 
on our boats. 

A very neat little railway runs from the anchorage along 
the Yangtse river about thirty miles up to Shanghai, besides 
all kinds of other conveyances, such as rickshaws, carriages, 
and a queer kind of passenger wheel-barrow. 

The road winds its way through rice fields, groves of bamboo 
and Chinese graveyards. It is very level and raised above the 
fields and swamps that abound there. 

About half way to the city is a Chinese barracks,, where 
were stationed from three to five hundred imperial troops, 
resplendant in yellow and blue silk jackets, trousers very loose, 
flowing and baggy, but wound close to the lower extremities 
and held by tight fitting leggings, and a profusion of red 
sashes and ribbons. 

Except for the few rice fields, the country through which 
we passed seemed to be one continual graveyard. There were 
grave mounds all about us. Not like graves in the United 
States, but the coffin is placed upon the ground with earth 
piled over it to a height of six to ten feet. Occasionally we 
would discover an idol, keeping lonely watch over his sleeping 



302 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

disciples. It is hardly probable that be receives any remunera- 
tion for bis services or ever "got a day off." Tbere are sev- 
eral of them, however, that are "off their base," having prob- 
ably been knocked down by some of the strong odors from 
Woosung, which a god of flesh and blood, let alone one of wood, 
could not stand up against and live. The fallen ones are al- 
most entirely hidden by the dirt that has accumulated, having 
in all probability lain there for centuries. 

Soon the visitor begins to realize that he is nearing a city 
of apparently modern design, for great buildings, factories, 
warehouses and stores indicate the unmistakable advance of 
civilization. 

At last we arrived in a European part of the citv, the ap- 
pearance of which confirms our first impression of it. The 
streets are broad and well paved. Numerous fine stone build- 
ings are on either hand, with handsome residences, well kept 
gardens and many splendid hotels. 

The city, like nearly all European settlements in the orient, 
is divided into parts for each residing nationality, of which 
each retains the individuality of its own nation, the manners 
and customs of each being markedly different. There is an 
American, French, German, English and Chinese town. 
Shanghai, however, is pre-eminently English. 

Merchant vessels and small men-of-war from all parts of 
the world can get over the bar, at the outside anchorage off 
Woosung, and are lying out in the stream off the city of Shang- 
hai, loading or unloading cargo. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 303 

One of the finest rambles that a tourist can take and one that 
none should miss is out to Bubbling Well in the evening. The 
sight-seer takes the road of that name, and walking away from 
the city's busy hum and bustle, is soon plunging into the quiet 
and peace of a beautiful country road, lined on either side by 
tall, shady trees, which overhang, their branches interlocking, 
making a leafy roof through which the sunbeams struggle, 
their mellow light tinting the beautiful scene with flashes of 
burnished gold. The road is full of crooks and turns, and 
abounds in cosy retreats, where the indolent may linger and 
drink in the glorious scene. Artists and photographers make 
this road their rendezvous. 

In little lanes running off the road are refreshment houses 
and Chinese tea gardens. 

Beautiful suburban residences, with great parks, skirt Bub- 
bling Well road for a distance of three or four miles, and an 
early morning rickshaw ride, or in the evening when the 
"crush" is driving "four-in-hand" and showing off fine clothes 
•along the road, is one of the very best means of securing enjoy- 
ment in Shanghai. 

The Shanghai weather bureau is about four and a half miles 
from the city, with a Frenchman and Portuguese in charge. 
Both wore long queues. This is a precaution taken by mis- 
sionaries and other Europeans who are compelled to mingle 
with the natives, with the view of propitiating them, as they 
have a great antipathy to foreigners. 



304 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

A short distance from the weather bureau is situated a nur- 
sery and the orphanage. In the latter place the inmates are ed- 
ucated and taught useful trades. 

Returning the traveler takes another road, which leads to 
"Old Shanghai," or China as she was in the days of Confu- 
cius. You can tell when you are nearing this place, by the 
innumerable lepers and beggars that beset your path and grow 
thicker as you near the gate. Some of the former were so in- 
describably repulsive and made hideous by this loathsome dis- 
ease that they appeared hardly human. 

At the gate of the city one takes a guide, who is indispen- 
sable, as by going alone you are in constant danger of violence, 
and mayhap robbery and murder. 

The streets were narrow and ankle deep in filth, and business 
of every description carried on in dingy, ill smelling bazars 
that line them. Should you desire to buy anything to com- 
memorate your visit to this foul spot, about fifty per cent is 
added to the price of the article, as commission for the guide, 
wno is invariably a "Shylock" of the most grasping kind. But, 
alas, he is indispensable and he knows it. 
. The old town is enclosed by high granite walls and the in- 
habitants are not allowed much freedom outside. One appre- 
ciates the change in the atmosphere on going out, and grate- 
fully inhales long draughts of pure air into his much abused 
lungs. 

CHEMULPO, KOREA. 

'Korea extends down from North China between the Sea of 
Japan and Yellow Sea, west of the Gulf of Pechili, in which 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 305 

Taku, the naval base mentioned above, is situated. Chemulpo, 
one of its principal cities, is built by the sea on the lower side 
of the peninsula, and is of great importance from the fact that 
Russia desires to terminate her great Trans-Siberian rail- 
way there, but being unable to arrange this, carried it out to 
Vladivostok, Siberia. 

When the flagship dropped anchor in the harbor of Chemul- 
po, Korea, I glanced back toward the entrance of the harbor, 
and to my surprise could see nothing but a chain of islands 
apparently in the identical spot where we had entered; but 
on making inquiries, I learned that I was in a great mirage 
district and that there really were no islands, but simply re- 
flections on the water. 

The natives came off in small boats, as usual, but they wore 
strange dress and were different from any other people I had 
seen. It is a law of the country that, on the death of a crowned 
head, the people shall wear white mourning; but owing to 
the numerous deaths in the royal family during recent years, 
and the period of mourning being three years, the people have 
adopted white as a permanent national dress, and the cut and 
style is much like that of biblical days. 

To sit on the old city's wall in the moonlight and gaze over 
this strange eastern city, makes one almost imagine the en- 
vironment of the Savior, as the veiled, white-robed figures 
glide silently about the streets. 

A number of my friends visited Seoul, the capital, with me, 
and we had the honor ( ?) to sleep in a hotel just outside the 
gates of his majesty, the emperor's palace. 



306 AROUND THK WORLD IN THE NAVY 

!No building in Seoul may be built more than two stories 
high, as otherwise the people (ordinary mortals) could look 
over his majesty's garden wall, and perchance catch a glimpse 
'of one of his charmers. 

The people look with disfavor upon the "palefaces," and it 
was with no little relief that I returned to the ship and sailed 
in her for Vladivostok, Siberia. 

VLADIVOSTOK, SIBEEIA. 

Vladivostok is the terminus of the great Trans-Siberian rail- 
way, and I had the pleasure of crossing the longest railroad in 
the world. 

There are two hundred thousand Russian soldiers barracked 
in Vladivostok, and the majority of the people are exiles, 
banished from their home country for political offenses. 

They are a tough lot,, and murders, robberies and outrages 
are familiar headlines in the daily papers. 

A Russian soldier's pay is something like eighteen cents a 
month, which you can readily see does not make business lively 
or money easy. 

Morality is decidedly bad and the people keep hours that 
are ridiculous. They rise at eleven o'clock in the morning, 
lunch at three in the afternoon and spend most of the night 
in revelry. 

The military authorities are very strict and the greatest care 
is taken to prevent foreigners from obtaining descriptions of 
their fortifications; however, our American officers succeeded 
in getting into every port of the place, and secured descrip- 
tions as well as charts of them. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVV 307 

We visited this place early in October and found the weather 
about the same as January in Iowa. The sleighs, carriages 
and dress are picturesque. 

When driving a high yoke is fastened over the horse with 
bells in the arch, and one or two horses hitched to the same 
whiffletree, but are not checked or reined, simply tied to the 
horse in shafts. Green overcoats, military boots and fur cloth- 
ing are seen everywhere. 

On October 29, 1901, the Brooklyn steamed out of the har- 
bor of Vladivostok, bound for Hakodate, Japan. 

The weather was fine and sea smooth. The scenery was not 
very interesting — hills appeared bare and rocky. The air of 
Siberia seemed to weigh upon us all, and all hands were glad 
to see the last of it. Tyranny, ignorance and depression 
marked the place as their own. 

HAKODATE, JAPAN. 

We arrived off Hakodate at seven o'clock on the morning of 
October thirty-first, and I saw, for the first time in three 
years, snow upon the mountain tops back of the city. It re- 
minded me forcibly of America, and the desire for home came 
almost overpoweringly upon me. How one does long for a 
glimpse of his native land after a few months' absence. I be- 
lieve my greatest desire was for America rather than for home, 
though that came next. 

Hakodate is a pretty city of several thousand inhabitants, 
situated on the sea and surrounded on all landsides by undu- 
lating small mountains, which range down the coast as far as 
the eye can reach. The city is typical in construction, situa- 



308 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

tion and customs. The harbor is a busy one and ships from 
many countries were anchored there discharging and shipping 
cargo. 

"Old glory" could be seen waving high over the housetops 
at the residence of our consul. It always looked good to us 
when entering a port to see the dear old flag floating on the breeze 
a welcome to us. It makes one feel "at home." 

As there is nothing of particular interest beyond my pre- 
vious Japanese descriptions in Hakodate, I will pass on to 
the subject of Yokohama, to which place we proceeded after 
a couple of days' stay in the port of Hakodate. 

YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 

Early on the morning of 'November fourth the silver tipped 
peak of "Fujiyama," the pride of Japan, burst on our sight 
in all its majestic glory. Fujiyama is a mountain about sixty 
miles inland from Yokohama, discernible for a distance of 
eighty miles at sea. 

As we steamed into the harbor, everything was bustle and 
confusion. Sampans were darting hither and thither, loaded 
with gesticulating Japanese, Chinese and East Indian mer- 
chants, all anxious to get on board first and dispose of their 
wares at fabulous prices to the green and gullible "jacktars." 
As soon as we dropped our "mud-hook," they swarmed aboard ; 
the Indians tall and stately with their flowing robes and long 
black hair, carrying small black valises, their main article of 
traffic being jewelry and precious stones; the Chinamen were 
tailors, while the Japanese were, well, they were everything. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 309 

It was amusing to see a little brown fellow, about three feet 
nothing, carrying a huge bundle under which only his legs 
could be seen, and giving one the impression that they must 
be overburdened; but you are soon disillusioned, for as soon 
as he reaches a clear place on the deck, down goes the bundle, 
two brown hands flash, around the knots, the ends of the en- 
folding cloth are thrown open and the dazzling array of wares 
are spread temptingly before you, while a smiling face show- 
ing two rows of large white teeth, greets you with the remark, 
"Velly good curios. You likie buy? Melikan man have got 
plenty money." 

Visitors to the orient should observe one rule to the letter, 
and that is to give a Chinaman one-half of what he asks for 
anything, and the Jap's first price should be divided by three. 
The observation of this rule will guarantee a traveler against 
paying more than twice what the article is worth. 

Shortly after anchoring, as is the custom in every port, we 
began firing salutes, starting with the Japanese, then the Eng- 
lish, French, German, Russian and other foreign men-of-war 
lying in harbor according to rank. Then followed all the offi- 
cial visiting between the foreign men-of-war and Japanese 
officials and the admiral, which seems so essential to naval 
ethics. Still everything went off with a snap and precision 
that denotes thorough training. 

Here we became acquainted with the whole-souled, big-heart- 
ed ( ?) Tommy Matsu, comprador. Oh, he "long time sabe 
Melikan man-of-war," and he did without a doubt. He brought 
off eggs that must have been laid before the war and saved es- 



310 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

pecially for us ; juicy steaks from the water-buffalo — the shoe- 
makers made fine sea boots from them, but it would have been 
cheaper to buy them ready made. The chickens he sold prob- 
ably perched upon Noah's ark, and crowed to apprise "old 
pop" Noah when it was time to get up and let out the cat. 

QVlatsu kept a saloon ashore where he regaled the boys with 
blue vitriol labeled "Pure Scotch," at twenty sen per dose. 
He was an unparalleled scoundrel and not a fair representa- 
tive of his countrymen. 

Liberty was granted, and the boys took advantage of the 
opportunity in seeing the city and all the "sights." Many of 
them went to Tokyo, Japan's capital. The round trip can 
be made, giving a day and night in the capital, by train, the 
fare being one yen twenty sen, or about sixty cents in United 
States currency. 

Tokyo is a delightful place to visit. There are many things 
of interest to be seen, chief among them are the various old 
temples and the emperor's palace, which is surrounded by spa- 
cious grounds, deep moats and lofty walls. At the entrance to 
the palace ,is stationed a body guard of foot soldiers in blue 
coats and bright scarlet trousers. Another place of interest 
is the famous Uyeno Park, which contains a well equipped 
menagerie, library, museum of natural history, beautiful gar- 
dens and driveways. 

The curio shops in Tokyo are famous and well worth visit- 
ing. A Japanese curio store is a perfect maze of strange, use- 
less variety, the most cunning little trick boxes, puzzles and 
contrivances imaginable, can be obtained at a very small cost. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 311 

The attendants or clerks are mostly women and they speak 
very little English. 

The European papers published in Yokohama are the "Adver- 
tiser," "Gazette," "Japan Mail" and "Herald," dailies, and 
the "Box of Curios," weekly, the latter being one of the few 
American papers published in all Asia. 

A great many of the crew attended performances at various 
native theatres on the avenue known as Theatre street. The 
price of admission for Japs is two or three sen, but for "Jack" 
it is all they can get, many of the greenest paying a dollar or 
two to see about as "bum" a show as was ever forced upon 
the suffering public. However, I found their shows entertain- 
ing, as nothing of the kind had ever before come under my obser- 
vation. 

A few miles from Yokohama there is a little city and a great 
navy yard. Yokosuka is an ideal navy yard, being naturally 
adapted for fortification, and many a grim looking gun pro- 
trudes its black muzzle threateningly over the bay. The en- 
trance to the harbor is very narrow and thickly mined, and 
there are many reefs and shoals which are a great menace to 
ships not aware of their location. 

The town is mainly inhabited by government employes and 
is about an hour's run by rail from Yokohama. 

A jackie I knew once told me of their ringing in of a new 
year on board the vessel on which he was at the time serving, 
while at anchor in Yokohama, that was rather interesting. 
He told it as follows : 



312 AROUND THE WOK.LD IN THE NAVY 

"New Year's day was coming on and the lads were getting 
their heads together to give it a warm reception. On account 
of the severe discipline maintained on the ship, each fellow 
who participated in any skylarking had to make himself as 
scarce as possible. The time came. Our police were safely 
wrapped in the arms of Morpheus. A close observer might 
have seen two dark forms, flat on their stomachs, gliding over 
the wet deck (for it was raining) toward the ship's bell. An- 
other form, equally stealthy, but not so wet, might have been 
seen lurking under the 'hood of the conning tower passage, 
while still another kept necessary and vigilant watch on the 
movements of the officer-of-the-deck. Added to this a crowd 
of about twenty, each armed with souce-kettles, dish-pans and 
spud-mashers, were quietly grouped about the hatch on the gun 
deck. 

"Soon the faint and far off ringing of a bell ashore is heard ; 
the quartermaster comes down from the bridge and strikes 
very softly and gently the necessary eight bells to indicate that 
twelve o'clock has arrived. Hardly is his back turned ere, with 
a wild yell, the two skulking wet figures spring into activity; 
with a bound one seizes the bell rope and strikes eight bells 
for the new year as it has never been struck before, and the 
figure in the conning tower turns on the full force of the elec- 
tric fire alarm. Gongs are ringing all over the ship, the crowd 
of raving maniacs sacrifice the mess gear; the sleeping ship's 
company are aroused,, the chorus is swelled and bedlam is 
loose. In twenty minutes everything is quiet again and every 
one feels better for this relaxation from tension of strict naval 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 313 

discipline. But next day, when the cooks see their mess gear, 
there is a howl, and the heroes of last night's adventures are 
discreetly silent." 

A few hours' ride in another direction from Yokohama takes 
one to the town of Kamaqura, near where the famous idol Dai- 
Butsu sits upon his throne. His history is in brief: 

In the year 737 A. D., the emperor, Shomu, being a sincere 
devotee to Buddhism, caused numerous monasteries to be 
erected throughout Japan, and among the other churches thus 
built and endowed by his majesty is that known as the "Ko- 
toku-in" at Kamnakura. 

In the grounds of this ancient fane stands the famous co- 
lossal bronze image of the great Buddha which was cast in 
September, A. D. 1252, by the celebrated glyptic artist, Ono 
Go-bo-ye-mon, in accordance with commands received from the 
Shogun (Prince Munetaka) who assisted Itano ISTo Tsubone 
to carry out her pious desire of fulfilling the dying injunc- 
tions of Minamoto ISTo Yoritomo, one of whose waiting ladies 
she had been. The image was much injured by a tidal wave 
which swept over the site of the monastery A. D. 1495, yet 
notwithstanding the ravages of time and the fury of the ele- 
ments, it is in a state of excellent preservation and repair. 

It is about fifty feet in height, ninety-eight feet in circum- 
ference ; the length of the face is eight and a half feet, of the 
eye four feet, of the ear six and a half feet, and of the nose 
three feet eight inches. The breadth of the mouth is three 
feet two and a half inches, the length from knee to knee is 



314 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

thirty-six feet, and the circumference of the thumb is over 
three feet! 

I visited this image on November 17, 1901, and found my- 
self well repaid for my visit. There are a number of fine tem- 
ples in this vicinity. 

Friends Babcock, Gage and I spent Sunday in Kamakura 
and vicinity, taking lunch at a very nice native hotel for Eu- 
ropeans. 

Though it is contrary to naval discipline to appear in civil- 
ian dress ashore, we took our own risk and donned "store 
clothes" once more, for the first time during my military ser- 
vice. It seemed rather strange and we enjoyed it immensely 
until, during lunch, who should enter the dining room but 
the admiral and Captain Dickens. Of course, we could not 
stand "at attention" or otherwise recognize them or draw their 
ofiicial attention to us, sq, choking down the last bit of roast 
duck as quickly as possible, we hurriedly left the hotel, miss- 
ing what appeared to be an excellent desert. I shall always, 
perhaps, wonder what it might have tasted like. 

The admiral very generously failed to notice us, but we were 
in considerable fear during the next few days, lest his silence 
was only the forerunner of a storm, but he took no notice of it. 

In Yokohama there are a number of fine silk stores, where 
for marvelously low prices can be obtained the finest silks of 
all descriptions. Their hand embroidery is famous the world 
over. 

In one store I saw several kimonas elaborately embroidered 
in colors, ranging in prices from ten yen to five hundred. But, 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 315 

owing to the heavy importation duties on silk, I purchased 
nothing but a few handkerchiefs and twenty yards of fine pon- 
gee silk. They have received such great praise from my 
friends and relatives here that I have deeply regretted that 
some of the more beautiful work did not accompany them. 

The hotel Mietropole, one of the finest European hotels in 
the orient, burned one night when I was ashore in Yokohama, 
illuminating the sky over the entire city. Thousands of peo- 
ple witnessed the conflagration and several lives were lost 
among its guests and attendants. This was considered a great 
loss to travelers, as a truly comfortable hotel is a great luxury 
in Japan. 

The customs of the people make native hotels undesirable 
for Europeans, and the Metropole was considered a haven of 
rest among tourists. There remain several hotels, but none 
seem to reach the high state of popularity enjoyed by the, 
Metropole. 

In Yokohama are a great many book stores, where native 
publications are on sale. I found the native literature very 
interesting and unique, especially the childish fairy stories. 
They are usually printed in little pamphlets on crepe paper, 
profusely illustrated in colors and the language is childishly 
simple, while at the same time descriptive and easy to under- 
stand. They illustrate the childish nature of the unhampered 
Japanese mind, which is the real characteristic of all Japanese 
people. The following is a fairy tale translated into English 
of this class, that may interest my child readers, entitled : 



316 around the world in the navy 

"the enchanted waterfall. 

^Once upon a time there lived along with his father and 
mother a simple young wood cutter. He worked hard all day 
on a lonely hillside or among the shady .trees of the forest. 
But work as hard as he might, he was still very poor, and could 
bring home but little money to his old father and mother. 
This grieved him very much, for he was an affectionate and 
dutiful son. 

"For himself he had but few wants and was easily pleased. 
His mother, too, was always cheerful and contented. The old 
father, however, was of a selfish disposition, and often grum- 
bled at the poor supper of rice, washed down with weak tea, 
or, if times were very bad, with a cup of hot water. 

" 'If we had but a little sake, now,' he would say, 'it would 
warm one up and do one's heart good.' And he would reproach 
the simple young fellow, vowing that in his young days he had 
always been able to afford a cup of sake for himself and his 
friends. Grieved at heart, the young man would work harder 
than ever and think to himself, 'How shall I earn some more 
money ? How shall I get a little sake for my poor old father, 
who really needs it in his weakness and old age ?' 

"He was thinking in this way to himself one day as he was 
at work on the wooded hills, when the sound of rus'hing water 
caught his ear. He had often worked in the same spot before, 
and he could not remember that there was any torrent or water- 
fall near. So, feeling rather surprised, he followed the sound, 
which got louder and louder until at last he came upon a beau- 
tiful little cascade. 

"The water looked so clear and cool that he stooped down 
where it was flowing away in a quiet stream and, using hand 
as a cup, drank a little of i,t. What was his amazement to find 
that instead of water, it was the most excellent sake ! 

"Overjoyed at this discovery, he quickly filled the gourd 
which was hanging at his girdle, and made the best of his way 
home, rejoicing that now at last he had something good to 
bring back to his poor old father. The old man was so delighted 
with the sake that he drank cup after cup. A neighbor hap- 
pening to drop in, the story was told to him, and a cup of sake 
offered and drunk with many words of astonishment and grati- 
tude. 

"Soon the news spread through the village, and before night 
there was hardly a man in the place who had not paid his visit 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 317 

of curiosity, been told the tale of the magic fountain and 
smelt the gourd, which, alas, was now empty. 

"Next morning the young woodcutter set off to work earlier 
even than usual, not forgetting to carry with him a large 
gourd, for of course the enchanted waterfall was to be visited 
again. 

"What was the surprise of the young man when he came to 
the spot, to find several of his neighbors already there, and 
all armed wi,th buckets, jars, pitchers; anything that would 
carry a good supply of the coveted sake. Each man had come 
secretly, believing that he alone had found his way to the magic 
waterfall. 

" 'Here we are,' said one, 'all bent on the same errand. Let 
us fill our jars and gourds and go home. But first, jus,t one 
taste of the magic sake.' He stooped down and filling his 
gourd put it to his lips. Once and yet again did he drink, 
with a face of astonishment, which soon gave place to anger. 

" 'Water!' he shouted in a rage. 'Nothing but cold water! 
We have been tricked and deceived by a parcel of madeup 
stories — where is that young fellow ? Let us duck him in his 
fine waterfall!' 

"But the young man had been wise enough to sit behind a 
big rock when he saw the turn things were taking, and was no- 
where to be found. First one and then another tasted of the 
stream. It was but too true ; no sake, but clear, cold water 
was there. Crestfallen and out of temper, the covetous band 
returned to their homes. 

"When they were fairly gone the young wood cutter crept 
from his hiding place. 'Could this be true?' he thought, 'or 
was it all a dream ? At any rate,' said he, 'I must taste once 
more for myself.' He filled the gourd and drank. Sure 
enough, there was the same finely flavored sake he had tasted 
yesterday. And so it remained. To the good, dutiful son the 
cascade flowed with the finest sake, while to all others it yielded 
only cold water. 

"The emperor hearing this wonderful story, sent for the good 
young wood cutter, rewarded him for his kindness to his father 
and even changed the name of the year in his honor, as an en- 
couragement to children in all future time to honor and obey 
their parents." ; I 



CHAPTER XI. 

RETURN VIA HONOLULU TO SAN FRANCISCO, THENCE OVERLAND 
TO NEW YORK AROUND THE WORLD DIS- 
CHARGED BACK ON BROADWAY. 



P 



,RIOR TO LEAVING Manila the admiral issued an order 
to send all men having only three months or less to serve 
on their enlistments to the United States by army trans- 
port. Eive minutes after this order was posted on the bulletin 
board on the Brooklyn tremendous excitement prevailed. Most 
of the men having short times to serve, had spent three years 
in the orient, some of them had spent six, and a few ten to 
fifteen years away from home. 

It is hard for the inexperienced mind to grasp such a situa- 
tion. Think of it! Ten thousand miles from home, friends, 
sweetheart, America! ISTo society, little pleasure, except 
through letters from home, and ofttimes they were unsatisfac- 
tory and more often failed for months in their arrival. One 
toiled away, in whatever branch of the service he might find 
himself detailed, with no hope whatever of happiness before 
the expiration of the three years for which he was bound, and 
planned, hoped and despaired by turns. There was never any 
positive assurance of living to see home again; one could only 
hope and carry as bright a face as he had strength of mind. 
Added to this was the rigid discipline and privation of ship- 
board life; the arrogance of superior officers; the association 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 319 

with men in all grades of immorality, ignorance and vulgarity 
from the four corners of the earth. 

Bright, well educated, honest, well bred young gentlemen 
toiled at hard manual labor beside colored men, sat at table 
with them and found no fault whatever. Jack says, "Give me 
a ship with a sound hull, good strong engines and proper steer- 
ing gear, and I'll not grumble at the paint on her." These 
were his sentiments with regard to men, but far worse than 
association with the negro, in his estimation, came the service 
under petty officers of foreign speech (Germans, Dutchmen, 
Swedes, etc., who spoke our language brokenly and domineered 
those under their command) who, because of their ancestral 
servitude were said to be more willing and submissive under 
Annapolis officers and, therefore, better liked and more often 
promoted. These foreigners are termed "square-heads" by 
jack, and to serve under a square-head petty officer was con- 
sidered the greatest aggravation possible. 

All these things conduced to misery and the disagreeable 
points I have enumerated multiplied by years intensified a 
thousand fold the joy overflowing in the breasts of those whose 
enlistments lacked but three months of expiration when the 
boatswain's mate passed the word^ "All men having less than 
three months to serve, lay aft to the executive officer's office." 
We promptly dropped everything and "layed." 

The executive officer received us in his private office one by 
one and informed us that we could take our choice between the 
two propositions; be transferred to the station ship to await 
further transfer to an army transport going to America, the 



320 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

sailing of which was indefinite, or remain on the Brooklyn un- 
til she reached Yokohama, when those of us who might remain 
would "probably" be sent home by mail steamer, provided the 
Brooklyn did not receive orders to proceed to the United 
States about that time, in which event we would have to re- 
main in her until arrival in America, which might be several 
months. 

A greater part of the "short-timers" decided to be transferred 
to the station ship and take their chances in an army transport. 

There remained but two months of my enlistment, so, be- 
lieving the Brooklyn's movements to be very uncertain, I made 
up my mind to remain behind and risk reaching home by army 
transport, though I had information that she would not sail 
for over a month, and that in the meantime the men going to 
the station ship would be very uncomfortable in temporary 
quarters. However, I was "advised" by one of the admiral's 
aides, which meant considerable more than the simple word 
"advise," to remain on the Brooklyn, that my services were 
required there, and that if I would forego my right to remain 
behind on the station ship, he would see that I was sent home 
by mail steamer on arrival at Yokohama, Japan. 

This being the very end I was working for, satisfied me and 
I stood on deck and cheered for the "homeward bound boys," 
as they left the ship with a will. 

Their condition proved afterwards to be much as I had be- 
lieved it would be. They waited a month in the terrible heat 
and discomfort of Manila Bay, in crowded and uncomfortable 
quarters, then went aboard an army transport; after repeated 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 321 

attempts to get out of the bay, she finally headed for Nagasaki. 
Japan; she broke down, the boys were transferred to another 
transport, waited nearly a month in Japan, started out once 
more and struck a rock, or grounded, then, after repairs, and 
considerable more delay, they finally headed out across the 
Pacific for San Francisco. A more disgusted lot of men 
would have been hard to find. One of them came to Yokohama, 
while the transport was "laying up," and his reports of "hard 
luck" were amusing. He said the men had spent all their 
money; could not draw money from the army, of course, so 
they had sold nearly all their curios, spent the money, and had 
started in to sell their clothes, in order to get "liberty money." 

We fared better on the Brooklyn. After a very pleasant 
cruise about the countries mentioned in preceding chapters, 
we finally arrived in Yokohama and learned that the "draft" 
was still in Japan. 

On arrival in Yokohama, I reminded the admiral's aide of 
his promise concerning my homegoing, and orders were at once 
written to the paymaster of the fleet to secure transportation 
for Miller, the admiral's printer, myself and fifteen men, mak- 
ing seventeen, all told. 

As soon as the order was issued, I went out on deck and told 
all the men who were to go. They were wild with ex- 
citement. Caps were thrown in the air ; they hugged each other 
in their delight, and Miller and I ran about the ship like ma- 
niacs, trying to tell our friends we were going home, talking 
incoherently, neither paying any attention to what either him- 
self or the other fellow was saying. We ran forward to the 



322 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

forecastle every few minutes to look for the Doric, the Pacific 
mail steamer in which we expected to sail, which vessel was 
expected to arrive that day. 

The aide in charge of correspondence gave up all hope of 
getting any more work out of me. A thousand memories of 
home and friends came like an avalanche upon me, blinding 
me with their overpowering profusion and eliminating all 
power or desire to handle correspondence. Not me ! I wanted 
the Doric, and I wanted her so bad that I just about had to 
have her. 

The Doric finally came in, several hours late in arrival. We 
packed our clothes and curios up, bade goodbye to many of 
our friends and "stood by" for the order to "leave the ship." 
This order did not come, but the paymaster did, came back 
from the ticket office with the encouraging information that 
no accommodation was available on the Doric, but that the 
agent had promised to send us on the next steamer. 

Well, we were about the sickest lot of fellows imaginable. 
Our friends flocked about us and nearly fell over each other in 
mock goodbyes. Some said they believed it was a trick to fool 
us, that they had never meant to send U'3 home ; others "'lowed 
it was more pleasant on the ship than tramping in the states ;" 
and they asked what "was the use" of going home only to reen- 
list at once or starve. Many and varied were the jokes they 
made that day, but we took it all in silence; previous naval 
experience had taught us the good sense of silence. 

About the end of the week we began to have hopes again. 
The paymaster had told somebody and somebody had told 



AROUND THE WOXLD IN THB NAVY 323 

somebody else who said he believed we might get to go on the 
Nipon Maru, sailing a week later than the Doric. This was not 
much, but it was something that sounded good, so we nursed 
it a little and bye and bye we had catered to it so much that it 
grew and grew until, finally, it blossomed into a full fledged 
conviction that we were "sure" going on the Nipon Maru. 

Miller and I watched three days for the Nipon Maru, two 
days and a half before she was due ; but, who knows, she might 
be ahead of time. vBut she was not; she steamed in the bay 
of Yokohama "right on the dot" and dropped her "mud hook" 
inside the breakwater. 

The "pay" went ashore again and stayed until the wee small 
hours of the night, so that it was not until nearly noon the next 
day that Miller "squeezed out of him" the overpowering news 
that "it was no go;" we must wait for the Peru, sailing eight 
days later. 

Well, we went below and unpacked everything, well know- 
ing that this was the only "sure" way to ever get away for 
America. 

Another week was dragged out minute by minute. Miller 
and I had the remainder of our service figured out in seconds 
and passed some time decently away in subtracting the seconds 
in odd numbers every eight or ten minutes. Miller even went 
out on deck and voluntarily loaned a fellow five dollars for 
two weeks, in order to coax the Peru along to take us in a week. 
That was a "fetcher." 

The "pay" had been confidentially interviewed by every 
man in the draft at least a dozen times to know if passage had 



324 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

been secured by cable, telegraph, letter — anything, so long as 
we got it. The "pay," executive officer, captain and on down 
to the ship's cook was waylaid and questioned as to the pas- 
sage on the Peru for the draft, until every man on the ship 
was sick and tired of the subject. Even the cat would hist 
his back, show his teeth and "scat" when he saw one of the 
draft coming his way. He need not have been so "sassy," for 
he got nearly all the victuals of the entire seventeen men for 
three weeks; none of us could eat. I believe if we had been 
kept much longer there would have been no need to send us in 
anything but a box. 

Well, something "fetched" her. Miller and I held a long 
debate over the matter ; resolved, w T as it owing to the fact that 
he had loaned a fellow five dollars for two weeks, or to the fact 
that we had unpacked all our "things," that the Peru finally 
came in and passage was actually secured in her ? It was never 
fully decided, and I leave it to my readers to settle. 

At any rate, something "fetched" her, and with a draft of 
sixteen men,, I left the flagship Brooklyn on the morning of 
ISTovember twenty-third and went aboard the Pacific mail 
steamer. 

The Peru is a small passenger steamer, with black hull and 
white upper works. She was neat to perfection, every rope, 
hatch cover, deck chair, etc., in its proper place. She steams 
eighteen to twenty knots per hour and makes the run from 
Yokohama to San Francisco m seventeen days. Her officers 
are Americans and her crew mixed Americans and Chinese. 
She is fitted up with first and second cabin and oriental steer- 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 325 

age. There were several hundred Japanese on board, quar- 
tered much the same as hogs in a stock car forward in the 
oriental steerage. They were bound for Honolulu, and their 
passage was a terrible one. Packed like sardines in the black, 
foul hole, they merely existed through a ten day period of sea 
sickness and misery, to Honolulu. The Peru is about as well 
arranged for oriental steerage passengers as any Eastern ocean 
steamer (Pacific), but the reduced fare allowed orientals 
necessitates limited quarters and they nearly always take the 
cheapest passage, regardless of comfort. 

We were quartered in the second cabin, which is located aft, 
and were allowed the freedom of the "quarterdeck," Being 
the only second cabin passengers, we had plenty of room and 
the jackies "went in" for skylarking immediately on going 
aboard. 

The second cabin was fitted up with little staterooms and 
bunks in two tiers. Electricity and hot and cold water were 
furnished ; our accommodations were complete. 

And such a change from man-of-war life. The food was 
excellent ; officers addressed us with politeness, spoke to us in 
kindly voices and treated us with respect. We felt that wc 
were already out of the navy and for the first time in years 
our hearts swelled with that true feeling of freedom that marks 
people as Yankees the world over. 

Promptly at noon, as scheduled, the Peru slowly steamed 
past the Brooklyn, that magnificent fighting ship of Santiago 
fame, with our little band of jackies standing at "attention" 
in her honor for the last time. 



326 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

One of our party was a bugler, and as the clear call of his 
bugle sounding "attention" was wafted across the water to our 
old shipmates, we gave three hearty cheers for the dear old 
ship and the boys left behind. They manned the side and re- 
turned our cheer with a will, while the steam whistle of the 
Peru sent blast after blast across the waters in sympathy with 
the happy event, "When Jack Comes Sailing Home." These 
great ships, as though they understood, gracefully dipped "old 
glory" to each other, and almost before I could realize it, the 
flagship Brooklyn, my old home for eighteen months, appeared 
but a small speck of glimmering white upon the horizon. 

lAiter nearly three years of absence from America, home 
and friends, I felt with profound joy the throbbing of machin- 
ery which was set in motion to carry us back with all the speed 
that steam can insure. 

Out across the great Pacific, with the grace of a swan, the 
Peru glided, throbbing and panting with seeming impatience 
at the resistance of a sluggishly calmn sea; she rose, rolled, 
tossed her bow, and gently fell again, as though completely 
exhausted with the struggles, only to renew with increased 
vigor the toiling toward Uncle Sam's shores. 

Life aboard the Peru was very pleasant. Her officers were 
extremely friendly and courteous. She was a good sea vessel, 
but, being rather small, tossed and rolled considerably in the 
choppy swell. 

Our little band of sailors were the j oiliest lot on the ship, 
and held nightly revels on the quarterdeck which often brought 
the first cabin passengers aft to breathe their share of the at- 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THR NAVY 327 

mosphere of gaity. Mimic drills, fire quarters, battle, roll 
call, "mast," where the captain metes out punishment to men 
for breaches of discipline, and other affairs on board ship were 
held, all hands playing a part, which caused the days to pass 
by much more pleasantly than would have been the case if we 
had been content to mope and wish for the end of the voyage. 
A seventeen day voyage toward home was as nothing to us after 
traveling, during the three year cruise, enough miles to reach 
more than three times around the world. 

"Blackie" and "Smithie" held first and second places, re- 
spectively, in the nightly revelry. "Blackie," being a French- 
man, danced and sang French songs as his own accompani- 
ment. At regular intervals he would go below, reappearing 
presently with a big "square-face" bottle of gin under his arm. 
Using the bottle as an imaginary lady partner, he would waltz 
and two-step about the deck, singing his own accompaniment, 
with all the calm, apparent forgetf ulness of &eli and rapture im- 
aginable. His attempts at grace, occasionally interrupted by a 
roll of the vessel that would send him sprawling in the scup- 
per, were positively "killing" in their awkwardness. "Blackie" 
waltzed much the same as a cow might, his heavy figure turn- 
ing and twisting in the loose fitting sailor togs appeared so 
ridiculous that "Smithie" could not resist the temptation to 
joke him a little. A "chaw" between the two would follow 
something after this style: 

Smithie — "Say, Blackie, you waltz all right, except your 
feet" 



328 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

Blackie — '"What else can you expect of me with no more 
room to waltz in than this — I've only got two feet." 

Smithie — "Yes, I see you have only two, but you would 
have been a taller man if they hadn't turned so much of your 
legs down for feet." 

Blackie — "Oh, pipe down about feet; watch me do a polka." 

Smithie — "Poker, is it? Well, I call you; I've got four 
aces. What have you got ?" 

Blackie 1 — "Oh! I've got sich a headache! Und I veel zick 
to my stumach. Smithie, vont ye blease smile at th' steward, 
zo he vill throw un orange at you ? I think I need one." 

(Smithie — '"What's the use, we couldn't feed it to you with- 
out a syringe, on account of the size of your mouth." (Blackie 
had an abnormally large mouth.) 

Blackie — "Oh, you go and fall overboard ; you might as well ; 
you can't land at 'Frisco without showing citizen papers, on 
account of the map of Italy stick' n out all over your face." 

Smithie — "Polly want a crac — , or, I beg pardon, Polly voo 
Fransa ?" 

Blackie — "Say, Smithie, aint it about time you shut up ? 
Here, take this dime and go git a hair-cut." 

Smithie — '"Look here, Blackie, while you are about it you 
might as well give me a dollar and I'll git 'em all cut." 

So they carried on, hour after hour, until the rest of the 
party reaching their limit, would chase them below to find 
united consolation in the gin bottle. 

We were favored with beautiful weather during the entire 
voyage to Honolulu. Bright sun, smooth sea, with a sky clear 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 329 

and blue, tinged here and there with occasional passing silver 
clouds, gave that Indian summer cast to the weather so neces- 
sary to a perfect sea voyage. To sit on deck, under heavy awn- 
ings, during those bright afternoons, off to one side of the deck 
with only my pipe for company, and dream of my home-going ; 
the meeting with loved ones; alterations in my affairs since 
my departure, and a thousand other things that would be of 
interest, was delight almost worth three years' hard service 
to experience. How would my mother look ? Was her hair 
white ? When I left it was gray, but time might have altered 
all that. Would father be the same jolly "old dad" that I had 
left, it seemed, ages ago ? 

But, alas, was it wise for me to dream and build castles in 
the air on my prospect of reaching home ? It was true, the 
sea rolled in ordinary calmness, the air was not unusually 
threatening, the machinery of the ship was, apparently, in ex- 
cellent condition. But the Rio de Janeiro was said to have 
gone down in just five minutes after she struck with nearly all 
hands on board. Could it be possible that I was afraid of the 
ship sinking with me before arrival in "God's country" % Pos- 
sibly, a little. A thousand things might happen in a day, and 
I wanted, oh, so much, to see home and friends again ! It is 
impossible to picture to a mind with no similar experience with 
which to make comparisons the doubts, fears and agonies of 
longing that beset one under such a condition. One could only 
hope and wait, perhaps pray a little. One could only feel un- 
comforted the desire to urge the good ship on at a more rapid 
speed. At times she seemed to mope along at a snail's pace. 



330 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

Seventeen days is a long time to wait with nothing but sky 
and water composing the horizon, when one is coming home. 

The monotony was broken only by a day's visit in Honolulu, 
Hawaiian Islands, which was all that was required to complete 
the happiness of our home coming. 

Honolulu is a veritable Eden and is rapidly gaining in com- 
mercial importance. The missionaries originally sent out by 
the United States have a strong hold and the people are divided 
into a missionary and people's party. 

These parties are continually at war with each other con- 
cerning the government. The missionary party is said to be 
in the majority and more powerful in the possession of wealth. 

On entering Honolulu harbor the vessel passes through a 
channel blasted through the solid rock of a reef extending 
across the mouth of the harbor. On either side of the buoyed 
channel water dashes upon the dangerous reef, tossing spray 
dozens of feet into the air. Its roar can be heard for miles. 

The harbor is a busy one, merchant vessels from all parts 
of the world line the docks and men-of-war and army trans- 
ports are generally to be seen in or near port. 

The Peru steamed into Honolulu harbor at night, giving us 
an excellent opportunity to view the city when illuminated. 
All along the beach in front of the city stretched a line of arc 
lights which gave sufficient illumination for the loading and 
unloading of vessels. On the domes and towers about the city 
were placed extra lights marking here and there the location 
of superior masonry. Farther on back of the city, up the in- 
cline to "Punch Bowl" crater, runs a zigzag line of electric 



AROUND THB WORLD IN THE NAVY 331 

lights from the base to the top of the small mountain, follow- 
ing the electric railway in its windings to the very summit. 
These lights appear from the sea to be one continuous line of 
fire and the effect is magnificent. 

The Peru tied up at the dock and began unloading and load- 
ing mail and cargo at once. Natives assisted in this work, and 
one of the strangest facts of my travels was met with, here: a 
brown man speaking excellent English. So accustomed had I be- 
come to the jabbering of foreign tongue among colored men, 
that I paid little attention to these Honolulu people at first ; 
but finally it seemed to me that I could make out what they 
were saying, and upon giving it my attention a moment, felt 
considerably mortified to recognize my own tongue. 

About nine o'clock in the morning "all hands" went ashore 
to have a few hours' ramble over the city. The Peru was not 
to sail before evening, so that we had almost an entire day in 
which to visit this "hula-hula" land. 

Leaving the Pacific mail docks, we passed along the mail 
steamer docks, through an immense freight house onto the 
main shore road. Five minutes' walk brought us to the city 
market. This is one of the finest fish, meat, vegetable and fruit 
markets I have ever seen. An immense shed, under which are 
fish tanks, tables, vats and booths or stalls, where fruit, cigars, 
soft drinks, etc., are sold. The whole was kept very clean, 
and there was little of the customary "market smell" to be de- 
tected about the place. It is conducted mainly by natives. 

Across the street from the market is the United States naval 
station which is being completed. It covers considerable 



332 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

ground, and judging from the class of unfinished work going 
on, it will he a model naval station. 

Leaving the market, we proceeded down town. Found the 
city up-to-date and the people not far behind. A great many 
very pretty half-caiste girls were seen on the streets and about 
the city. The people were richly dressed and the general ap- 
pearance of Honolulu was prosperous. The streets were well 
paved, the buildings modern. The city is certainly a most 
beautiful one, owing its beauty, perhaps, to the luxuriant 
vegetation in which it abounds. 

Flowers, pretty evergreen trimmed trees and vines appeared 
everywhere and the air was heavy with their perfume. 

A number of native ladies and girls were selling garlands 
of flowers on the street, and people, everywhere, who appeared 
to be enjoying a holiday, wore them about their necks. 

After we had exhausted the sights of the city and partaken 
of an excellent dinner at an American restaurant, we boarded 
an ancient appearing horse car connecting with the electric 
inclined railway for the "Punch Bowl." 

Half an hour's ride up the zigzag railway brought us to the 
summit, where a magnificent view of the city was afforded. 
The famous "Punch Bowl" lies across from the highest point 
to which the car goes and you can look over into the crater of 
this extinct volcano. Splendid and varied is the scenery about 
the city of Honolulu, and as I stood on the peak of this moun- 
tain looking out over the beautiful evergreen clad city, upon 
the broad expanse of the Pacific to the horizon, a realization 
of the wonderful creation of earth came overpoweringly upon 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY o33 

me, and I realized for the first time, I think, the utter insig- 
nificance, when compared with creation, though his works and 
accomplishments may all be considered, of that conceited ani- 
mal — man. 

Returning to the city, we were preparing to go on board 
the Peru, when an incident came under my observation that 
may, if related here, prove of lasting benefit to many young 
ladies if closely studied. My readers will remember that it 
had been many months since I had spoken to a white woman ; 
many months since I had looked upon the face of an American 
lady. If you can picture to your own mind the dilapidated 
state man would reach when isolated from his country woman, 
you will be able to understand to a small degree the condition 
of mind men in the orient are placed. In the United States 
woman is placed upon a high plane. She is the brightest part 
of men's lives; she is petted, idolized and, perhaps, spoiled. 
Good women are the fairest of God's creatures. He placed 
her on earth to love, and be loved by, man. Lovely American 
woman, the world has none more fair ! Take her away and 
this old world would be a sorry place for man. Take away 
your mother, sister, sweetheart, wife, and the light of your 
life is faded into lusterless darkness. I had not heard the 
sound of voice nor looked upon the face of an American woman 
for months, until, on passing down a lane in Honolulu, two 
beautiful young American ladies slowly approached from the 
opposite direction and, hesitating near us, one of them ex- 
claimed, "Oh, what a beautiful rose ! Do you think we could 
get it?" 



334 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

iSeveral of our little band of sailors were together and we 
were gaping in amazement at the ladies. To me they appeared 
the most beautiful sight that had come before my eyes for 
months. The men were all struck with astonishment. One 
of them, an honest young Irishman, who would rather cut off 
his right arm than have displeased one of the ladies, sprang 
down the little bluff into the ditch where the flower grew, and 
losing his footing, fell into a puddle of water, wetting and dis- 
arranging his clothes, but he secured the flower, and running 
after the ladies, doffed his cap and, blushing red, said: "Ex- 
cuse me, please, lady, here is the flower you wanted." 

He made but a sorry appearance in his disheveled condition. 
He was scared, and his approach was not of the most formal 
character, but his heart was honest and it was plainly visible. 

This young American lady, upon whose face we had all been 
delighted to gaze, upon the tremors of whose voice we were glad 
to bend our attention, as she looked at this young volunteer for 
his country, in the uniform of Uncle Sam's Navy, her country's 
protector, drew up her shoulders in haughty disdain, elevated 
her nose about two extra points in the air and fired such a 
look of killing scorn at poor "Mike" that he almost .fainted, 
when she said : "S-i-r ! I d-o-n'-t k-n-o-w y-o-u !" 

With this surprising speech, she turned and hurried her 
companion away from those "dirty sailors." 

If there is any young lady among my readers who does not 
understand the drift and meaning of this incident, let her at 
once ask her mamma, and then spend the next year in thinking 
hard over her reply. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 335 

The Peru sailed at dark and outside the harbor we found the 
sea quite rough and rising rapidly. By midnight a storm had 
struck us. The wind blew heavy, the night inky blackness, 
and the angry sea pounded, tossed and rolled the little steamer 
in a most distressing manner. In all my sea service I had 
never before felt real sea sickness. But, after traveling thou- 
sands of miles on the sea, in all kinds of weather from quiet 
calm to tremendous storm, without feeling this terrible mon- 
ster's influence, I was destined to feel it within three davs' 
sail of Uncle Sam's shores. The Peru being a smaller vessel 
and laid on a different keel, met the sea in a manner unusual 
to me ; instead of the heavy plowing through the sea of a steel 
man-of-war, I felt the light buoyant bounding and rolling of 
an ocean passenger steamer, which, though comfortable enough 
when one becomes accustomed to it, turns a man-of-war's-man 
topsy-turvy. 

iHowever, I kept a stiff upper lip, and early on the morning 
of December 10, 1901, she steamed slowly through the "Golden 
Gate" into the harbor of San Francisco. 

Oh, with what inexpressible joy did we look upon the shores 
of the dear old United States ! How one's heart thumped and 
bounded with the hot affection and enthusiasm that came 
with this beautiful sight! Everything looked American, but, 
after all these strange places and sights, home (America) 
seemed a strange land ; the people had strange ways ; the build- 
ings, streets and everything upon which one's eyes fell had a 
foreign look. I could have cried for the very sorrow of find- 



336 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

ing myself a stranger at home, had not the excitement preva- 
lent occupied my entire mind and attention. 

We telephoned to the commandant of Mare Island Navy 
Yard and Station the fact of our arrival and he ordered us 
to proceed at once to the United States receiving ship Inde- 
pendence, at Mare Island, which is the naval rendezvous. 

That night we slept on the Independence, and it seemed 
good. Though everything appeared strange, it was exquisite 
joy to feel that we were at last in Uncle Sam's land. They 
treated us kindly and considerable curiosity was evinced by 
the jackies on the vessel. There were "old timers" and 
"rookies." The young men who had just enlisted for service, 
and who were very anxious, as is usually the case, to be sent 
to sea, asked many questions. We had little to say, bu|t ad- 
vised them to "try it a cruise," which we thought would take 
most of (the curiosity out of them. We did not feel in the 
story-telling mood ; instead, we simply wanted to enjoy to the 
fullest extent every minute of our lives in America. 

All hands were very eager to proceed on to ISTew York, where 
we expected to be discharged. 'But we were informed that it 
would be necessary for us to "lay over" a day or two in Mare 
Island before the official machinery could be made to grind 
out transportation and orders for us. This was indeed a dis- 
appointment. Many of them had to come part of ithe distance 
back west after reaching ISTew York and receiving their dis- 
charges before reaching their hom^s. Christmas was com- 
ing on and it was feared that we would nolt reach our homes 
in time to eat "puddin" on that happy day. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 337 

We were not in the best of health. One of our number had 
passed most of (the voyage in his bunk and had to be carried 
ashore and at once sent to Mare Island hospital, where he was 
still confined when last I heard of him. 

A few of the draft were San Francisco boys. A great many 
friends came at once to visit Ithem and it made the rest of us 
feel rather blue. It occurred to me then that in each of my 
army and navy enlistments and discharges I had been alone, 
amid strange surroundings, with no one to advise, comfort or 
cheer me. Poor old] Chum, I wondered what had become of 
him. The last I knew, he had felt himself compelled, on ac- 
count of the inhuman treatment of a superior officer (as he 
wrote me) to desert the navy, his country and his flag. 

Never in all my experience have I met a more loyal or pa- 
triotic young man than he. He loved and was proud of 
America. He was honorable in every act in which I knew him. 
Yet he deserted. I will never be able to believe that it was 
possible for him to remain in the service and live ; for I know 
him well, and he is not at heart a deserter. I was anxious 
to ge|t to iN"ew York so that I might learn of his whereabouts. 

Well, the order finally came to send us at once by train to 
!N~ew York. After the delay of two days, at their ease, 'they 
suddenly became hurried. They hustled us, trappings and 
all, on board the train, and almost before we were aware of it, 
we were speeding across the Rockies toward America's me- 
tropolis. 



338 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

The Rocky Mountains loomed up grand and majestic; they 
were awe inspiring. They are appropriately named. Simply 
great piles of jagged rock standing bare and weather-beaten, 
with here and there a stunted tree or bush as the only sign of 
soil or vegetation in the nooks and crevices. 

We were furnished with dining car and sleeper tickets. I 
was placed in charge of the entire parjty and the transportation, 
etc., put in my care. I found this a difficult position to fill. 
The men felt already out from under the arm of naval author- 
ity, and were inclined (to resent any interference on my part 
to keep them quiet and orderly. Accustomed for years to the 
rough life on board a man-of-war, they often forgot themselves 
and their language. A sailor swears from, apparently, natural 
instinct. Their words have little real meaning, but sound 
as offensive to ladies as a "land lubber's cussin'." However, 
they all appreciated my position and endeavored to conduct 
.themselves in a proper manner. It was often amusing to 
watch a fellow trying to "be good." He would sit quietly and 
gaze about the car for, perhaps, five minutes, when suddenly 
discovering some opportunity to trick a shipmate, he would 
forget all about "being good," and break loose in true sailor 
fashion, only to remember himself a moment later and feel 
greatly embarrassed. 

The dining service was very fair over the Southern Pacific 
and Union Pacific routes until we reached Omaha; then, foi 
some unknown reason, unless they thought because we were 
sailors it was not necessary to serve us as well as other people, 
service ceased to be satisfactory. The food given us was not 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 339 

always equal to that of other passengers; the waiters were not 
over polite ; we were required to wait until the enltire train of 
passengers had dined before we were served and one or two 
days were kept waiting for breakfast until six o'clock in the 
evening. We never breakfasted as late as ithis on naval ves- 
sels, so the men were very hard to pacify. Of course, being 
in charge, I had the unpleasant duty of reporting conductors, 
waiters, etc., until I was tired; I had '.the still more unpleas- 
ant duty of reproaching and ordering hungry men to cease 
grumbling about "no dinner." In fact, my position was ex- 
ceedingly unpleasant. Under these circumstances it is not to 
be wondered at that the men procured a few bottles of whisky 
and before I had become aware of it had made themselves half 
drunk. Then my troubles commenced; they wanted tc "cuss" 
the trainmen, !they wanted to sing, they wanted to fight any- 
body who desired a fight, in fact, they wanted everything to 
be thought of, until I became almost frantic, and had to have 
the lights turned oult in order to put them to sleep. 

But they were a good lot of men, and not one of them but 
what would have done anything in his power to assist me, ex- 
cept "be good" himself. 

It was my misfortune to be compelled ito pass through Ot- 
tumwa, Iowa, only twenty miles distant from my home, with- 
out being able to stop off an hour. We passed through at night 
but I remember looking hard in the direction of home and 
wishing that I could become a bird for a few hours, so thait I 
might at least take a look at home. But men are not turned 
into birds in the twentieth century, and I 'traveled to ISTew York 



340 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

and back again before looking upon the home of my childhood. 

Our route lay through Chicago, where we arrived in the 
morning and "all hands" being tired, I permitted them to 
stop off eight hours and turned them loose in the ci',ty. Several 
of us visited the Art Institute and were very kindly admitted 
free of charge by the manager, who said he felt compelled 
to honor and respect Uncle Sam's uniform. Several hours 
were spent here and greatly enjoyed by all. 

Everywhere bustle and confusion reigned. Stores were pre- 
paring for Christmas trade, windows were decked in holiday 
display. Thousands of people thronged the streets and busi- 
ness houses. After enjoying an excellent lunch at a restau- 
rant near State street, a small party of us attended the mati- 
nee, which, with the dinner that followed it, passed pleasant- 
ly the time allowed in this busy city. 

It lacked an hour to train time and I could find but three 
sailors ! Time seemed to be flying. To be delayed another 
day meant difficulty on arrival in New York. I became un- 
easy and racked my brain for some means of bringing them 
together. When ashore jack is often irresponsible and I feared 
they were drunk, arrested, perhaps, or in a thousand other 
kinds of trouble. What should I do ? To go on to New York 
and leave them meant a court martial on arrival. As I sat 
pondering over this tangled problem, a policeman walked past 
me into the adjoining room, and brought the query to my 
mind, "Why not ask the chief of police to help find them ?" 

Acting on the impulse, I called him up by telephone and in- 
formed him that I was in charge of a drafjt of sailors, who 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 341 

were scattered about in Chicago, no one knew where, and that 
it was absolutely necessary to have them all at the depot with- 
in an hour. 

He politely asked me if they were all in uniform and if 
'they wore cap ribbons with the name "U. S. S. Brooklyn" on 
them in gilt letters. I replied in the affirmative, and he said 
he had noticed a few about State street that afternoon. He 
requested me to call him up ten minutes before train time, 
and report whether or not they had all returned, saying fur- 
ther that he would instruct "roundsmen" to send them in, 
wherever found. 

In less than thirty minujtes 'they began to arrive. Each had 
a different story to tell about two, three or four policemen 
ordering them to a get to the depot as quick as their legs could 
take them." Some came alone; others who had imbibed too 
freely were escorted by big policemen, and some who were be- 
yond the use of mere Isgis, were honored by free rides in the 
patrol wagon. 

At ten minutes before train time I 'phoned the chief that 
my men had all arrived and asked him how he had managed 
to work so quick. His reply was characteristic of Chicago 
people, short and to the point: "Roundsmen Irish, got big 
feet, can walk, this is Chicago. Ring off." 

From Chicago we passed through Washington, D. C, and 
arrived in New York, all hands safe and sober, on December 
nineteenth. Our papers were delayed in their arrival from 
San Francisco, so that we were not finally discharged until 
the twenty-first. 



342 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

With an honorable discharge in my pocket, I trudged slowly 
down great Broadway and gazed with renewed interest into 
the faces of its pedestrians. Since I had trodden this crowded 
thoroughfare, three years before, I had completed ithe circuit 
of old "mother Earth," had experienced many things, and 
had visited many lands. I had learned the true value of 
America, had learned to appreciate this, its greatest thorough- 
fare. The people appeared unchanged. They hurried, moped 
and idled in the same manner as those I had looked upon three 
years before. Their faces all showed the cares of life as be- 
fore. I looked closely into the faces of several, oh, a great 
many, and they didn't appear to have missed me a bit! ; 

MY NEXT CRUISE. 

I've knocked around the world a bit, 



.Been buncoed lots 'er places ; 
Sometimes I've had not much ter eat, 
Agin made money like all blazes. 

iBuit though I've traveled fur and wide, 
Some jobs have come I kaint fergit; 

There's one wherein no snap I see, — 
The Navy's the poorest I've struck yit. 

They told me when I signed my name, 

That all I'd have ter do 
Was walk up each month and draw my coin, 

And daily eat my bread and stew. 

But now, young feller, it seems to me 
That that durn'd cuss he tole a lie, 

And if agin I do him see 

He'll need some fixen fer his eye. 



AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 343 

The Captain, he seems so stuck up, 

He can't a common feller speak to, 
And when yer try to talk ter him 

Yer think he's goin' ter eat you. 

The First Luff, he seems a queer old cuss, 

Got a lightnin' sort o' eye; 
But, Great Gee Hosephat, you better scoot, 

When he's been monkeyin' with old rye. 

Now the men as rides before the mast, 

I don't think I'll try describe ; 
There's so many different colors, kinds, 

From this old world, so fur and wide. 

Some has corners on their haids, 

Some air flat from toe ter heel; 
But the biggest end of them I find 

Air kinder shy uv upper wheels. 

Last of all I find myself 

Compelled ter tell it straight, 
Durned if I know what else ter call 

This ISTavy but my rotten fate. 

ISTow, I've been all round the world, 

Seen all kinds uv heathen races ; 
Some hangs pigs-tales on their haids, 

Some puts war paint on their faces. 

Some fellers where my ships have been 

Has ten er twenty wives, 
And a couple-a-hunderd children 

To burden of their lives. 

ISTow, Japan, that's er funny place, 

If you haint heard it now yer'd orter; 
A father there will sell, b'gosh 

Per dollars his own dorter! 



344 AROUND THE WORLD IN THE NAVY 

The Filipino gals — gee whiz, ther proud ! 

Ther powerful fond er jewelry, 
A termater can upon (ther leg, 

An' all sich gol dorn f oolry ! 

An' as fer clothes, they don't keer 

As much as what they orter; 
Why, a maiden fair will stroll along 

With clothes no more'n a quarter ! 

There's monkeys, parrots, birds and snaiks, 
Liven in valley, plain and mountain; 

An' finest kind er pretty flowers, 
An' waterfalls an' fountains. 

Why, sometimes it 'pears ter me, 
While steamin' 'mong ther islands, 

That Heaven must be much alike 
Our valleys here and highlands. 

So, after all, I kalkerlate, 

That maybe this air Navy 
Has made me all 'round a better man, 

My conscience cool and shady. 

An' when at last my cruise was out, 

An' 'round my neck dear mother's arms, 

I reckon how I was just glad 

Ter cruise with Pop upon ther farm. 



jotf 









jUN 28 1302 



